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Shock Tower Replacements and Reinforcement Kits

  • Thread starter Thread starter pyroman
  • Start date Start date Aug 9, 2010
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pyroman

Founding Member
Jul 28, 2002
480
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Ennis, Texas
Aug 9, 2010
#1
  • Aug 9, 2010
  • #1
I'm going to be replacing my badly crack shock towers in the next week or two, but before I do I wanted to run a few questions by you guys and gals about stuff I need to buy and your opinions on what I may or may not need.

First, shock towers. What should I get? Are all the of reproduction ones the same or are there higher quality ones out there? For example I was looking at the stock replacements for 67/68 Mustangs on MustangsUnlimited for $119.95 a piece.

Second, should I get a reinforcement kit? I am tempted because I don't want to have to do this again. The only thing that really makes me uncertain is how it will look. I'm not going for concourse quality here, but I don't want my engine bay looking hacked up if you know what I mean. For reference I am running 17x8 wheels with a 235/45/17 tire. The wheels have a 0mm offset and 4.5" backspacing. I've only had them for about 6 months and haven't done much driving on them so the cracks were all created either before I had the car or in the course of the 8 years that I've owned it.

If any one has pictures or writeups for the reinforcement kit that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks I think that is all I have for now!
 
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rnrjunkie

Member
May 22, 2010
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Germany (100% USDA Grade A American!)
Aug 9, 2010
#2
  • Aug 9, 2010
  • #2
I have the replacement Shock Towers in my Fastback. If yours are cracked in ANY way at all do yourself a favor and replace them completely. I went for just the new shock towers without reinforcements. Here's how mine looked before the replacement:





Fastback :: IMG_0464.jpg picture by rnrjunkie - Photobucket

After:



 
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pyroman

Founding Member
Jul 28, 2002
480
3
18
Ennis, Texas
Aug 9, 2010
#3
  • Aug 9, 2010
  • #3
Yep I definately plan on replacing them. I mean look at this:



Each one has about a 12" long crack too that wasn't home welded either. I was just wondering if there is any difference in quality in the replacement towers available or if they are basically all the same and also if in anyone's opinion if I should add the reinforcement kit as well.
 

mustangmutt

Member
Aug 2, 2010
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6
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El Paso, TX
Aug 9, 2010
#4
  • Aug 9, 2010
  • #4
How do you plan on using the car? If you go woth a lot of power and heavy duty suspension, then go ahead and re enforce them. I noticed that rnrjunkie welded the parimiter of the thick part of the tower where the upper control arm bolts on to the shell of the tower. That alone adds a bunch of strength.
 
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pyroman

Founding Member
Jul 28, 2002
480
3
18
Ennis, Texas
Aug 9, 2010
#5
  • Aug 9, 2010
  • #5
In the end I want about 400 WHP out of a carbed small block. I plan on setting it up for occassional track days and spirited street driving. By track days I mean road or circuit racing, I don't really plan on drag racing.
 

mustangmutt

Member
Aug 2, 2010
339
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El Paso, TX
Aug 9, 2010
#6
  • Aug 9, 2010
  • #6
If that is the case, I would re enforce them like the Big Block cars were. If your car is a 67 you might want to add a passenger side front Torque box and some Sub Frame Connectors. The forces of a road course at speed are as or more stressful on the chassis/frame than any that Drag racing puts on them. Build it bullet proof and see what you can break.
 
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rnrjunkie

Member
May 22, 2010
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Aug 10, 2010
#7
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #7
mustangmutt said:
How do you plan on using the car? If you go woth a lot of power and heavy duty suspension, then go ahead and re enforce them. I noticed that rnrjunkie welded the parimiter of the thick part of the tower where the upper control arm bolts on to the shell of the tower. That alone adds a bunch of strength.
Click to expand...

The welding was done like that to reduce the parts flexing. After changing things out, the front end is stiffer than an 18 year old virgin in a whorehouse!
 

mustangmutt

Member
Aug 2, 2010
339
6
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El Paso, TX
Aug 10, 2010
#8
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #8
rnrjunkie said:
The welding was done like that to reduce the parts flexing. After changing things out, the front end is stiffer than an 18 year old virgin in a whorehouse!
Click to expand...





Yep, I do that upgrade myself, just don't have pics as good as yours. The bottom line is these cars are as flexible as a yoga instructor and need all the stiffening they can get.
 
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pyroman

Founding Member
Jul 28, 2002
480
3
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Ennis, Texas
Aug 10, 2010
#9
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #9
rnrjunkie said:
The welding was done like that to reduce the parts flexing. After changing things out, the front end is stiffer than an 18 year old virgin in a whorehouse!
Click to expand...



Does anyone have pictures of the reinforcement kit installed? Or a good picture of the big block cars shock towers? I'm not sure if the welder I'll be using is capable of laying down that bead that you have there rnrjunkie. Do you have some more detailed pictures of it?
 

mustangmutt

Member
Aug 2, 2010
339
6
18
El Paso, TX
Aug 10, 2010
#10
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #10
This is how Unique Performance used to do theirs



 
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pyroman

Founding Member
Jul 28, 2002
480
3
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Ennis, Texas
Aug 10, 2010
#11
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #11
That looks pretty good. Do any of you know if there is a writeup on this kind of thing? I've never welded anything before but I will be taking it a friend's place who can weld well.

rnrjunkie or anyone who can answer - When you bought the replacement towers they were one piece right? You didn't have to weld the portion that holds the lower control arm and motor mounts to the rest of the tower? How did you lay down that bead considering the towers are already painted, just wire wheeled it first or something? Only asking because my experience is zilch when it comes to welding.
 

mustangmutt

Member
Aug 2, 2010
339
6
18
El Paso, TX
Aug 10, 2010
#12
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #12
This job is not for a novice. You have to make sure everything is within factory measurements. Or your suspension wont align and your engine could sit crooked. The large part that the upper control arm and coil spring sit in goes in first





Then the inner part that the lower control arm and engine mounts attach to goes on last.



When you order the complete shock tower the two parts come separated.

Excuse the poor pictures and the dirtiness of the surrounding sheet metal. I can only work as clean as the customers budget allows.
 
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rnrjunkie

Member
May 22, 2010
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Germany (100% USDA Grade A American!)
Aug 10, 2010
#13
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #13
pyroman said:


Does anyone have pictures of the reinforcement kit installed? Or a good picture of the big block cars shock towers? I'm not sure if the welder I'll be using is capable of laying down that bead that you have there rnrjunkie. Do you have some more detailed pictures of it?
Click to expand...

here ya go:


 
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rnrjunkie

Member
May 22, 2010
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Aug 10, 2010
#14
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #14
pyroman said:
That looks pretty good. Do any of you know if there is a writeup on this kind of thing? I've never welded anything before but I will be taking it a friend's place who can weld well.

rnrjunkie or anyone who can answer - When you bought the replacement towers they were one piece right? You didn't have to weld the portion that holds the lower control arm and motor mounts to the rest of the tower? How did you lay down that bead considering the towers are already painted, just wire wheeled it first or something? Only asking because my experience is zilch when it comes to welding.
Click to expand...

The shock towers are 2 piece. Both need to be welded in. Cleaning them up before you weld is no problem. I had the job done, as the welding and alignment on this job was way too much for me to handle. It really does need to be right, or your car won't align correctly. There are factory tolerances, but even those have limits. Turned out pretty good, although I have heard mixed opinions about the welds. Some say that they should have welded as original, leaving gaps between the spot welds.

Andy
 
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pyroman

Founding Member
Jul 28, 2002
480
3
18
Ennis, Texas
Aug 10, 2010
#15
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #15
Thanks for the pictures and recommendations guys and I'm not going to be jumping into this project on my own. I have a friend who is very good with this kind of thing and he'll will be performing most of the difficult work with me as a helper so to speak. I hope to get a good lesson in all of this.
 

mustangmutt

Member
Aug 2, 2010
339
6
18
El Paso, TX
Aug 10, 2010
#16
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #16
Someone spent a lot of time with grinding/sanding tools making those welds real pretty. Nice work.

IMO, as far as welding up all the gaps and making it look good depends on what type of restoration you're doing. If you're modifying the car and don't care about originality then build it stronger than original and tell the critics to build their own car.

Your welder will have to possess some fabrication skills. Then they can fab up reinforcements without buying a Big Block kit. Show them these pictures and let them comment.
 
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pyroman

Founding Member
Jul 28, 2002
480
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Ennis, Texas
Aug 10, 2010
#17
  • Aug 10, 2010
  • #17
Haha yeah I already spoke with him about the big block kit, I think we are going to resort to fabbing. It will take a little more time but it will save some dough.

In regards to the alignment of the towers, there are 6 holes that run through the inner fender and shock tower, is aligning the tower with those holes the way to do it? Also, since it comes as two pieces, how is the alignment done with the shock tower to engine mount/lower control arm mount? Use the 3 holes, two of which are for the control arm and the other one at the top?
 
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rnrjunkie

Member
May 22, 2010
54
0
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Germany (100% USDA Grade A American!)
Aug 11, 2010
#18
  • Aug 11, 2010
  • #18
pyroman said:
Haha yeah I already spoke with him about the big block kit, I think we are going to resort to fabbing. It will take a little more time but it will save some dough.

In regards to the alignment of the towers, there are 6 holes that run through the inner fender and shock tower, is aligning the tower with those holes the way to do it? Also, since it comes as two pieces, how is the alignment done with the shock tower to engine mount/lower control arm mount? Use the 3 holes, two of which are for the control arm and the other one at the top?
Click to expand...

Those 3 holes are used for alignment of the support that mounts to the the shock tower. Slpa some big bolts in there to hold parts in place while welding! Obviously you would need to measure beforehand, and make sure that you get everything in straight and level. Make sure that you inspect your frame rails while you have everything apart. (You will have the entire front end taken apart....there is no way around it.)
 

NasaGT

Founding Member
Sep 19, 2002
1,993
2
49
Virginia
Aug 11, 2010
#19
  • Aug 11, 2010
  • #19
Use an Export Brace to help locate the shock tower. The spring cover holes on the aprons will help, but won't get the angle of the tower correct. The Export Brace will do that.
 
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Fordmus67tang

Member
Jan 27, 2010
40
0
6
Aug 11, 2010
#20
  • Aug 11, 2010
  • #20
I replaced my drivers side shock tower due to cracking as well. I bought my shock tower from CJ Pony which was made by Dynacorn. The shock tower was thicker than the original which is cool for added strength. The way I lined it up was using the 3 holes on the apron and using my export brace to measure the distance. I've never welded, but my buddy welds as a profession so he showed me how to weld. Now, I'm addicted to it. Somehow, I managed to finish it. Mustang Monthly had an article online which was a big help. I am also planning on adding some reinforce kits, but I am going to make it myself. This site (http://home.flash.net/~sanco/mustang.htm) can shed some light.
 
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