I bought my car in September of 02 from Carmax. She was in showroom condition, bone stock down to the air filter. About a month later (still stock) my car started acting weird, surging idle, and what seemed like the fuel being sporatically cut off under light acceleration and deceleration. Ultimately the check engine light came on and the problem was increasingly getting worse. I decided that I need to get to a shop to have some codes pulled and of course, before I could make it to the shop, the check engine light turned off and the car was running flawlessly. I didn't know what to make of it. So I just forgot about the problem until a few months later, the problem came back, CE light and all. After a couple hours of driving, the light turned off and the car was back to running normal. To make a long story short, I've been running an O/R H with MIL eliminators and 2 chambers for over a year now and the problem has just recently come back for the 3rd time since newbut is now worse then ever. The codes got pulled and it said that my TPS sensor is out of range and my O2 sensor is out of range b/c of the H pipe. Which I think is stupid b/c its been doing that since I owned the car. I took it to 2 shops. Both places said they can't fix the problem b/c of my H pipe which i think is total bulls*it. But they did tell me that the light went off again and the cars running fine. Go figure. I considering selling my car for something else but I just don;t know what to do. Sorry for ranting. Any ideas?
Shop can't fix my car...what should I do?
- Thread starter GT98
- Start date
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
so u have code saying ur O2 senser is out of range. and you have O/R H pipe. and u have MIL eliminater? are u sure that MIL eliminater is working? Sometimes CEL would still come on even with MIL eliminater
Ususally when you install O/R pipe, and not have MIL eliminater working right, then that would eventuary turn CEL on. then car would sort of "limp" mode - i think PCM would retard the timing.
as far as TPS goes... other then check voltage and make sure that its around 0.97V. otherwise, get new tps(>$50).
can you slap ur OEM catted mid-pipe on just get serviced?
Ususally when you install O/R pipe, and not have MIL eliminater working right, then that would eventuary turn CEL on. then car would sort of "limp" mode - i think PCM would retard the timing.
as far as TPS goes... other then check voltage and make sure that its around 0.97V. otherwise, get new tps(>$50).
can you slap ur OEM catted mid-pipe on just get serviced?
hognutz
New Member
throw you stock midpipe on and take it in. problem solved. what is the big deal? did you get rid of your stock pipe? look for one on ebay or something for cheap. I kept my stock pipe in case I ever needed to take in or moved somewhere that had inspection.
Or better yet take this as an opertunity to learn a little bit but if you don't have any tools you will have to invest in some.
you have a code that says you TP sensor is out of range. pretty easy test with a volt meter. are you 100% positive the code was for the rear o2 and not the front o2 from one of the banks?
on a fuel injected car you should alwasy verify fuel presure. The IAC is problematic on these years as well.
I would be if you use the forums and good logic you could fix this yourself.
Or better yet take this as an opertunity to learn a little bit but if you don't have any tools you will have to invest in some.
you have a code that says you TP sensor is out of range. pretty easy test with a volt meter. are you 100% positive the code was for the rear o2 and not the front o2 from one of the banks?
on a fuel injected car you should alwasy verify fuel presure. The IAC is problematic on these years as well.
I would be if you use the forums and good logic you could fix this yourself.
KronicRacer
Member
KronicRacer
Member
when working on the fuel system disconnect the battery. if you do it yourself there might be a line lock on the fuel filter which requires a special too thats about 5 bucks from pep boys. mine needed it as do all the newer models. the older ones might just have a clip on them removeable with a small screw driver. also run some injector cleaner throught the system just to make sure
also check the pcv valve make sure its not clogged
location of the fliter is in the rear of the car infront of the gas tank. atleast thats where it was on the 01. not sure about 98.
also check the pcv valve make sure its not clogged
location of the fliter is in the rear of the car infront of the gas tank. atleast thats where it was on the 01. not sure about 98.
KronicRacer
Member
do have any idea if the previous owner ever changed the fuel filter. i hope its not the stock filter(it is a 7 year old car now) that might be the root of the problem or part of it at this point
KronicRacer
Member
RedBullitt
New Member
i agree, check that fuel filter. if thats not it, just swap the pipes and voila. if you dont have them, they are cheap off ebay or something like that, alot people give them away for free... so have a look.
BooWFO
New Member
It's on the TB it is in the front only thing with wires going into it there. The wires you want should be the bottom 2 neg on bottom and pos on center. Turn key to on position but not running and check voltage. You want it as close to 1.0v as you can get without going over 1.0v. Also it's some like to clear the computer after doing it or before which ever you prefer or both. The little screws on the top and bottom of the TPS is what you loosen just a hair rotate it toward pass side to lower voltage toward driver side to increase. Or just go buy a new one put it in and adjust it.GT98 said:
Mils I've heard this before with the plug and plays, hence why I went with solder in mils. Also if it is front o2's they could be causing issues. But since the tps is cheaper and easier I would start there and then move to the more expensive troublesome items.
If the o2's are the originals in the front you may want to consider replacing them as a tune up item anyways. Same as the fuel filter and plugs, wires and etc.
I know it's not as much fun HAVING to work on the car versus putting on parts to make it faster but sometimes we have to.
KronicRacer
Member
heres a picture of the tool also you need to depressurize the system before you work on it.... you need to do a scouting mission before you buy it (you may not need it) just to get an idea. i forgot the exact size. 
there a moduel in the trunk area that is a reset button (driverside) for the fuel system if it shuts off. the plug almost resembles the MAF wiring clip in the front. dissconnect the clip from the reset button, that will turn turn off the fuel pump. once thats done
turn the car on and let it run. now it will do 1 of 3 things. 1 it wont fire 2 it will start then after 30 or so secs will die or 3 fire and keep going. if the 3rd one happens pay attention to the exhaust note. if it starts to sound like its cammed like a nascar racer shut it down. because at that point the system is depressurized and the engine is sucking the fuel in on its own without the aide of the fuel pump.
once that is done disconnect the battery lift the rear end to get some comfortable clearence to work.
the local part store may have the filter you need if not.l the dealer should specific to your model. im using a napa wix fuel filter on mine.
there a moduel in the trunk area that is a reset button (driverside) for the fuel system if it shuts off. the plug almost resembles the MAF wiring clip in the front. dissconnect the clip from the reset button, that will turn turn off the fuel pump. once thats done
turn the car on and let it run. now it will do 1 of 3 things. 1 it wont fire 2 it will start then after 30 or so secs will die or 3 fire and keep going. if the 3rd one happens pay attention to the exhaust note. if it starts to sound like its cammed like a nascar racer shut it down. because at that point the system is depressurized and the engine is sucking the fuel in on its own without the aide of the fuel pump.
once that is done disconnect the battery lift the rear end to get some comfortable clearence to work.
the local part store may have the filter you need if not.l the dealer should specific to your model. im using a napa wix fuel filter on mine.
Attachments
mity2
I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
they use wierd clip on the fuel filter. i think its pretty much impossible to take it aprt without the tool
My guess:
1. Fuel filter
2. IAC valve
Like others said, put the stock H pipe on before you need service.
1. Fuel filter
2. IAC valve
Like others said, put the stock H pipe on before you need service.
oohsoobad2 said:
not good.. the fuel filter has two lines attached too it with spring clips. what you said is impossible that thing must be pissing fuel out now.
are you 100 percent sure about the cel being for the tps and rear 02's
if you are then i would first eliminate the cel with either a chip or mil elims. supposedly ford incorporated a limp mode that will cause a noticable driveability problem when a CEL is ignored for a long time. this is so you bring it in for the emmisions work needed..
after you fix that check the tps voltage and with the meter on it should sweep from .9X to about 5.00 WOT you want .9X at closed throttle..
if this don't fix it then drive it and have auto zone pull codes.. do not just get descriptions just code numbers. autozone diag is not wanted or needed.
if you are then i would first eliminate the cel with either a chip or mil elims. supposedly ford incorporated a limp mode that will cause a noticable driveability problem when a CEL is ignored for a long time. this is so you bring it in for the emmisions work needed..
after you fix that check the tps voltage and with the meter on it should sweep from .9X to about 5.00 WOT you want .9X at closed throttle..
if this don't fix it then drive it and have auto zone pull codes.. do not just get descriptions just code numbers. autozone diag is not wanted or needed.
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