shopping list for a e-fan conversion
- Thread starter aar0s
- Start date
What kind of controller are you going to use? I am not sure how the DCC controller works, but if you are just going to use a temp switch to activate the fans you will need two high amp relays to power the fans, one for each. You will need to look for a high amp relay like 75 or 80 amp. Most thermostatic switches will come with a relay built in, you will need to use that low amp relay to activate the two high amp relays. Fan, relay, controller, all you need.
capri debris
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V6 Contour duel fan setup, which can be ran off a cheap/easy to find 40amp fuse. You can run a toggle switch if you're really cheap, or you can run a coolant probe switch for about $30. I've ran the probe on my car for 6 years without a single issue...it's even adjustable. It worked just as good on my 302 as it does now on my 347. I currently run a Mark VIII because it's a BAMF, but i plan on switching to a Contour duel fan just because it's slimmer and cleaner looking IMO, and i like that it doesn't draw much amperage vs. the 80amp fuse i run on the Mark fan (which i've read can spike into the 90s on start up).
Easiest way to do it.
E-fan $30-50
75A relay $20
toggle switch $5
misc wire and connectors $10-15
That will get you started. Down the line, if you want to add a controller, you can buy one and wire it in. But not necessary. I ran my fan off a toggle for 9 years before swapping to a controller. I actually got a little creative and wired in a green LED on the fan input wire so anytime the fan was engaged, it would light the little green LED next to my autometer water temp gauge.
E-fan $30-50
75A relay $20
toggle switch $5
misc wire and connectors $10-15
That will get you started. Down the line, if you want to add a controller, you can buy one and wire it in. But not necessary. I ran my fan off a toggle for 9 years before swapping to a controller. I actually got a little creative and wired in a green LED on the fan input wire so anytime the fan was engaged, it would light the little green LED next to my autometer water temp gauge.
A lot of guys say you should do a 3G alt upgrade before the E fan if you haven't already done that. I run the Mark VIII fan but, I only use a 40 amp fuse & a 40 amp relay. I guess I have been lucky. Its just an off the shelf relay from autozone. Maybe not the best way to go but it works great for me. As for controlling it, Mine is always on if the car is running but, I plan on letting the A9P EEC control it in the near future. I have the TWEECER RT so I can tell the EEC when to turn on/off the fan. I just need to add a pin to the harness.
I thought about getting one of those and calling it a day.
Is that about what a dual fan contour setup goes for at a pull a part? and where did you get the relay? Ill probably set it up on a controller, i know DC's are the bomb but are the ones at autozone any good in a pinch?
What about the fans that ive seen that set inside the stock shroud, they work very good?
The contour fans will cost you double because the yards will charge you the price for two fans, most yards are about 35 bucks a fan so most of the time you'll walk out paying 60-70 bucks.
And e-fan on a toggle switch? Mine as well keep the stock fan clutch.
And e-fan on a toggle switch? Mine as well keep the stock fan clutch.
The relay it comes with sucks ass. Mine blew the first time i tried to use it.
I ended up using a simple auto parts 30A relay and use that to activate my 75A relay to turn the fan on
I run an SN95 e-fan i got for $25 at boneyard. A second day i was there, i picked up a Taurus 3.8L e-fan for $10 because it was a deal. So two working junkyard fans..for $35. You can either mount them to the radiator as is, or put them inside the stock shroud.
Here's your 75A relay
Bosch 75a relay - Google Search
And here's your controller
http://www.google.com/search?q=dera..._gc.r_pw.&fp=4a6afda2e5e8ee6f&biw=887&bih=298
Pick up a toggle for manual control and it's an e-fan setup (that is controllable) for around $100. The controller is good for 30A, so i use mine to activate the 75A relay. The temp sensor mounts in either the lower intake, or a threaded t-stat housing plug if you have one.
You may also need a coolant bottle too if you go with the OEM e-fan setup. I use a $15 summitt bottle.
You should also fuse the fan power wire. SN95's use 60A maxifuses..which can be picked up at audio shops.
I have my Sn95 fan on a 3-core copper radiator. It's never on. Only time it comes on is if i idle in place for long periods of time and the temp creeps up. Normal driving, the fan stays off as my temps are in the 180-185 range. My fan comes on at 195. On cooler 50-75 degree days, i can drive around for an hour or two and it never comes on. I use an autometer Mech temp gauge, and a green LED next to it wires to the fan input wire to show me when it's turned on.
Thanks for the info, guys! Ive got a couple of projects i'm wanting to start and this is one of them (seats are another one, ill make a thread when i figure out what to do on that.)
I might end up doing the mark fan in the stock should like the write up somewhere on here said. The info on the relays and controller will be helpful.
next Q, where did you guys mount your relays and controller?
I might end up doing the mark fan in the stock should like the write up somewhere on here said. The info on the relays and controller will be helpful.
next Q, where did you guys mount your relays and controller?
Eg...good question. I.m still not happy with where I put mine. I might pull the fender liner and mount it in there with the controller and fuse open to where I can access them easily.
Here is where I put my relay and controller. I had to extend the wires on the temp switch and had to remove the fender but it was just a few nuts and bolts to get it off, pretty simple. I really need to clean this up though.
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