Droped my short block off at the machine shop. They charge $400 for assembly alone. What all is involved in assembly? Gapping the file fit rings and positioning them correctly on the pistons,and setting the end play of the crank? Installing the cam and timing chain set? Would it be worth it to pay that if i dont have my cam by the time they are done? Or would it even be worth it if i do have it. Most likly the cam will need to be installed straight up so thats not hard either. I have a dial indicator and also a set of feeler gauges to set the gap.
Short Block Assembly
- Thread starter SMOKEDYA
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I imagine they will measure and check all the clearances for the bearings in addition to the things you mentioned, and probably degree the cam. $400 doesn't sound too ridicously high, although, if you have the tools and the know it can be done at home. If I remember right, aren't you building a high HP motor? I might let the more experienced do it if thats the case. I built my 331 at home, but if I ever have the opportunity to build a beast, I will probably let a pro do it, just to be sure.
Joe
Joe
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
In addition to the basics, they should check all of the tolerances and clearances. install the pistons, rods, cam and timing chain. Are they installing the cam straight up or are they going to degree it in for you. Have them install screw in freeze plugs. You do not want to lose a motor due to one of them popping out.
Ask for the build spec sheet that has all of the tolerances and gaps
Ask for the build spec sheet that has all of the tolerances and gaps
If i have the cam yes they would install it,and i'm hoping that ed will make it a straight up install cam not degreed. But either way no biggie i will buy a cam degree wheel if i assemble the short block. They are polishing my crank and i'm getting new bearings so would'nt the tolances be correct already? I asked when i dropped it off and they said they should be atleast 1/2 gram of a 0 balance.
I'd listen to these guys above - $400.00 is a steal - unless you are an accomplished engine builder - your better leaving it to the pro's - I had an expert (30 yrs building FoMoCo motors - can do side oilers ) assemble my motor - he bought the 'cam' - but in the end it cost me like $1400.00 - so that's about $1200 + in labor for a long block - but w/all the money I spent in parts alone - I figured it's not worth it to take a chance .......one small mistake - and BOOM - up in smoke -
ratio411
Founding Member
That sounds like a great price for just assembly.
Also, checking clearances is one thing, but remember that there is a fine line between just checking a clearance, and "blueprinting" (Physically setting each and every clearance to a narrow predetermined range).
So, while you can expect some broad range of safe clearances, they certainly didn't spend any time on them or 'blueprint' the engine.
Most shops do general labor at a set hourly price. Around here that amount is 75-100 an hour.
I ASSURE you that you will not assemble your engine at home in just 4 hours. At least not assemble it worth a darn in that time.
Also, checking clearances is one thing, but remember that there is a fine line between just checking a clearance, and "blueprinting" (Physically setting each and every clearance to a narrow predetermined range).
So, while you can expect some broad range of safe clearances, they certainly didn't spend any time on them or 'blueprint' the engine.
Most shops do general labor at a set hourly price. Around here that amount is 75-100 an hour.
I ASSURE you that you will not assemble your engine at home in just 4 hours. At least not assemble it worth a darn in that time.
ratio411
Founding Member
I disagree.
The "freeze plugs" are designed to keep your block from splitting due to lack of anti-freeze in cold weather.
They won't "pop out" unless the owner doesn't keep proper levels of anti-freeze in their cooling system in extended sub-freezing winter weather.
Usually the car would have to be parked outside as well, and unless the temp gets down near zero, the car would have to be left outside AND undriven for days to release the freeze plugs.
You really have to neglect a car to have the freeze plugs release is the point.
I have had them pop out of a 302 left outside in abnormally cold weather for a week.
Kept my block from cracking. (Memphis TN)
Here in Pensacola we had a very cold night, temps near 20*, and my son had pure water in his car, the radiator froze solid... And his freeze plugs held. Scared the crap out of him. The water pump wouldn't even spin.
Don't be scared of freeze plugs, they are your friend. If you want the best, use brass plugs, they don't rot out like the steel ones can after a few decades.
Had an engine freeze up on me like that once. Can't remember if it was the Ford Ranger I had built with the 5.0L or the one I bought afterwards with the 4.0L?
Started up....ran/drove fine. Got about 5km out and the temperature gauge went through the roof. First thought...damn, I blew a head gasket. Popped the hood and the radiator and engine block were stone cold. Opened up the radiator to see if I had low coolant and it was full of slush. lol
Limped it home, parked it inside for a few hours and jacked up my antifreeze to water ratio. Started up and never gave me a problem after that.
Laughed about it....it didn't dawn on me at the time I could have lost the engine. I was a stupid kid in my early-20's....what did I know.
Started up....ran/drove fine. Got about 5km out and the temperature gauge went through the roof. First thought...damn, I blew a head gasket. Popped the hood and the radiator and engine block were stone cold. Opened up the radiator to see if I had low coolant and it was full of slush. lol
Limped it home, parked it inside for a few hours and jacked up my antifreeze to water ratio. Started up and never gave me a problem after that.
Laughed about it....it didn't dawn on me at the time I could have lost the engine. I was a stupid kid in my early-20's....what did I know.
ratio411
Founding Member
LoL!
Wasn't it funny to see slush circulating in the radiator while it was running! I had never seen anything like it.
It was also scary to see the radiator ballooned out like a frozen soda can! I thought for sure he was going to have burst seams in the rad when it thawed out! The kid was lucky, like you were.
When it happened to my car, when I was a 'kid', I wasn't driving the car daily, it just sat in the drive. After a solid week of 20* weather, day and night, I walked out of the house to go to work in my DD, and noticed a pile of "stuff" laying all beneath my car. Looked like a pile of trash or something, so I walked over and stuck my head under the car. It was a pile of freeze plugs, and a mound of ice that used to be the water in my 302.
Wasn't it funny to see slush circulating in the radiator while it was running! I had never seen anything like it.
It was also scary to see the radiator ballooned out like a frozen soda can! I thought for sure he was going to have burst seams in the rad when it thawed out! The kid was lucky, like you were.
When it happened to my car, when I was a 'kid', I wasn't driving the car daily, it just sat in the drive. After a solid week of 20* weather, day and night, I walked out of the house to go to work in my DD, and noticed a pile of "stuff" laying all beneath my car. Looked like a pile of trash or something, so I walked over and stuck my head under the car. It was a pile of freeze plugs, and a mound of ice that used to be the water in my 302.
Yikes...yeah, it's unnerving for sure. If I remember correctly, I had a coolant leak that past summer, so instead of more antifreeze, I just keep topping it up with water every time it got low. I thought...hey, it's still green, it must be good.
I guess a couple of solid winter days of -30C weather was more than enough to put that theory to the test. lol
Started plugging in my block heater religiously after that.
I guess a couple of solid winter days of -30C weather was more than enough to put that theory to the test. lol
Started plugging in my block heater religiously after that.
gearheadboy
15 Year Member
$400.00 is cheap! If you are asking questions about "aren't the clearances already right" if the crank is polished etc, you either need a do it yourself book and a lot of time to learn it as you go and have fun, or pay them to do it. I would NEVER EVER recommend a newbie file fit their own rings. First you need the tool, second you can really eff up the cylinder bore. That price probably doesn't include cook, clean, hone, bore, cam bearing remove and install, soft plugs etc. Get it all figured.
I feel confident about doing all the assembly my self,i did my last motor just messed up using cast pistons.So i did decide to have them do it this time since i have to finish the car and get it ready for the motor. So i guess its not to bad paying $3425 including the block........
