Dude, step away from the keyboard and take a breath. People have advised you what to do. Either take the advice or not. Coming back every 5 minutes with "how about this?" isn't going to change the answers.
I'm out.
This isn't an argument but a question. So if I put a topend kit on my 90 that has either 176 or 276k mi I'm not sure which it should make power and run well? It cranks and runs well just seems a lil tired. Now it needs a couple things before I do this such as new rear main and as of yesterday new water pump gasket. But other than that its ok. I hear everyone saying the blocks will hold up but what bout the internals? Rings etc.Alright, I'll offer up my $.02 since I've been the "budget crate motor" route.
I bought the 320 hp P headed crate motor when I was in High School because I was afraid of building the motor I had. I didn't know any better and wasted a ton of money because it was an unecessary purchase.
These stock motors will run forever so long as you DO NOT put forced induction or spin them past 6500 ish. If you are that worried about the motor in your car now, pull it out and look at the bearings. Can't hurt and can be done in a day.
Save your $1k on the rebuilt short block and buy the TFS top end kit.
This isn't an argument but a question. So if I put a topend kit on my 90 that has either 176 or 276k mi I'm not sure which it should make power and run well? It cranks and runs well just seems a lil tired. Now it needs a couple things before I do this such as new rear main and as of yesterday new water pump gasket. But other than that its ok.
This isn't an argument but a question. So if I put a topend kit on my 90 that has either 176 or 276k mi I'm not sure which it should make power and run well? It cranks and runs well just seems a lil tired. Now it needs a couple things before I do this such as new rear main and as of yesterday new water pump gasket. But other than that its ok. I hear everyone saying the blocks will hold up but what bout the internals? Rings etc.
As long as you check the motor first for compression, and it is in general overall good shape, then you should be fine. I think the point is, there is really not that much value in spending uber money on a production based 302 bottom end block when many people have run stock and JY motors well into the 300-400hp levels. If you buy the right top end kit and you end up going to a dart or other stronger block, you could then transfer over the heads, intake and such. Of course if you slap a new top end on a weak,tired bottom end it will just make the weaknesses worse. If you know the motor is tired perhaps the best thing to do is find a JY explorer engine, change the cam and heads, and have a nice little 260-270 rwhp motor for under a grand until you save money for the big build.
For what you are trying to do, it'd be a wash. Find what you can get the best deal on and go with it.What heads would be better the tfs heads or afr 185s? Because it might be easier for me to buy the parts one by one instead of a whole kit.
I kind of agree. The only issue I have is by buying a JY motor, you have no proof that you've bought an engine in better shape than what you have without taking it apart.... Which brings you full circle back to "why not just take what I have apart and check it?"
Man, if you're gonna go that cheap, you need to seriously consider either running the shortblock you have or going with a junkyard motor. With new stuff, you get what you pay for. You want a reputably built shortblock, Rick or Woody have great reputations.I know I can fins a quality shortblock somewhere for under 2 grand. There's gotta be somethinf out there. Thats why I started this thread to see if there were other quality short blocks out there. Or is there a way to test mine now while its still my dd. I just bought the car it has 158k miles of unkown history lol. It was taken care of at one point but not recently I'm taking carw of a lot of problems now. Car runs good but engine feels very tired. And has an oil leak that looks like its coming from the crank? Not really sure.
V2SQ or newer vortech is designed to be quiet. But! You should really consider turbos, friend. More power at the same boost, WAY more torque, no sound at all until it starts to spool, and afterwards, the sound is f-ing music!This sounds like my similar thought, build stroker or add a SC??, then is there a quite SC??? was my next thought. Believe Novi and kenny belle came up.
If you get it cheap enough, why not just stick it in and run it? Seen it done on my buddies. Ran hard for 2.5 years until the day he sold it.
If you get it cheap enough, why not just stick it in and run it? Seen it done on my buddies Twin-turbo setup. Ran hard for 2.5 years until the day he sold it.
More power at the same boost
Yeah, but in this case, it WAS my best friend. It's not a tall tale. I gave him my old incon twin kit, my old GT40X heads, and a few other things, and made recommendations on other components - nice friend, right? I know every component he had on the car, and I know he paid $50 for that shortblock. I helped him tune it through his Tweecer, and drove the car a few times too. I think the tune was never spot-on, but he actually had no problem when he outran me in my C5 corvette even though he was missing badly in one cylinder due to a faulty plug wire. The car still pulled hard. I'm sure he was making similar numbers as my older combo, which I pulled a best of 12.2@118mph at 9.5psi. I know you're just teasing with the comment, but there is some truth to guys speculating on stuff and talking about a "friend." He's got a username here, actually but prefers '03 Cobra and Lightning/harley boards.Man... If I had a nickel for every time I'd heard THIS story.
You said hogwash! Seriously the OP has said he wants a DD not worried about racing,etc but also wants 350-400hp and possibly a power adder. And cheaply I might add. As we all know none of this goes together. More power = less dependability. Not to say you can't DD @ those levels but I will say its not done cheaply.
Fox guys giving advice to SN guys! Carry ON!
Scott
I never said cheaply....I said as cheap as possible lol. And a supercharger is wayyyyyy down the road. Not anytime soon. A supercharger is years down the road. Basicly ill be happy with whatever bottom end I do decide to get paired with a good top end. Whatever power that makes is what ill have so 300hp? 350 if I go stroker?
It would only make that with boost, but the answer is absolutely. In fact, I think an explorer motor with cheap blower or turbo is probably just about the most cost effective way of maxing out the stock block.For the first comment, yeah, but would it make the power level he was wanting to get at (Think I saw the 350-400 number thrown out??) It would take a little more work, right? Those are 320hp i thought.
Like me, you're an analytical guy. We like to think about textbook physics and to understand why things work the way they do. Many of the guys that build and race cars, even in racing applications, build based on experience. In the practical execution of just about anything in the real world, experience trumps theory. However, the inferences they draw from success can be misleading. The subject you just brought up is an example. They are right in a way, but their explanation is not satisfactory to an analytical mind. There are 3 reasons why on a given motor, a given boost may not produce the same amount of power: efficiency, parasitic loss, and other changes on the entire system in blown vs. turbo applications.For the second comment, this is a fact that I still fail to understand. I understand boost to be resistance to flow regardless of how it is introduced. Discounting the parasitic drag from the supercharger, how do you make more power from a turbo? I've read a few places that 10 psi one way is not the same as 10 psi the other way.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?