Should I tub the Beast?

muddslide · Aug 7, 2006

I just got a great deal on a 4 link set up for my stang. The complete rear, 4 link coil overs, frame rail, 9" rear complete with rims and tires for 700.00. It came out of a Vega with only a few passes. I would normaly be all over this but I just bought the Calvert Racing mono springs and shocks, new prostar rims and tires. Should I try to sell it and tub the car? I'm having a big problem trying to put my hp & tq to the ground at the track. On a small tire, my best 60' is a 1.64 spinning. I am also thinking about a tube chassis to lighten my car. I even thought about selling my rolling chassis. Should I waist my time back halving the car when it weights close to 3,700 pounds.

SuperSnake428 · Aug 7, 2006

neh

Nope, if you have that much power and you want to tub.. then go all out with the tube chassis. In my opinion, you shouldn't tub it.. its just a waste of money.

muddslide · Aug 7, 2006

Thats my point but would I be better of to sell the rolling chassis and build or buy a already done chassis. My chassis on my car is complete and looks good, well needs some paint but I think I could get a few dolalrs for it. I just hate to waist money, I think back halfing the car would be a waist.

Jester67 · Aug 7, 2006

In my opinion, you would be better off not tubing it and getting a tube chassis. The stock car will never be what you want it to be. So after you have killed a nice driver you will still end up getting a tube chassis car anyway. Save the stang and don’t tube it.

classic boost · Aug 7, 2006

3700 lbs?!?!
did you fill it with lead? my car isn't lightened at all (still has steel hood) and it weighs 3250 with me.

muddslide · Aug 7, 2006

I haven't weight it but I thought the coupes were around 3,400 plus my heavy blower. I also don't believe in stripping a car bare like the ricers do.

muddslide · Aug 7, 2006

I might post a few interior pics so you guys can help me find a fair asking price if I sell it.

classic boost · Aug 7, 2006

muddslide said:
I haven't weight it but I thought the coupes were around 3,400

just a shade over 3,000.

Cobra ssc · Aug 7, 2006

You need to ask yourself what you want the finished product of your car to be.
Do you want a tube chassis car with an aluminum floor and panels everywhere that isn't much fun to drive except in a straight line?
Do you want to pro-street it?
Do you just want to be able to plant the power and still have a car you can drive anywhere?
With the power you have right now, the MOST you would need is a mini-tub. It seems that you really need some suspension work and tuning.
In the end, the decision is yours.

This is an example of a mini-tub with a factory look...

LUCAFU1 · Aug 7, 2006

Cobra ssc said:
You need to ask yourself what you want the finished product of your car to be.
Do you want a tube chassis car with an aluminum floor and panels everywhere that isn't much fun to drive except in a straight line?
Do you want to pro-street it?
Do you just want to be able to plant the power and still have a car you can drive anywhere?
With the power you have right now, the MOST you would need is a mini-tub. It seems that you really need some suspension work and tuning.
In the end, the decision is yours.

This is an example of a mini-tub with a factory look...

looks sweet. what size wheel wells are those?

check out darknights ride. that thing is fricken sweet. big tires out back make me drool

muddslide · Aug 7, 2006

The next step would be at least a tub. I have the narrowed rear already. I have all after market suspension from Calvert Racing. I have a drag radial on the car now but with my roots blower, I launch with almost 600tq and 500+hp with 12psi.

classic boost · Aug 7, 2006

i just switched from dr's to quick time pros. although i haven't tried them at the track yet, on the street it's night and day difference.

stangonline · Aug 8, 2006

Ahhhh... Drag radials...

Are you dead set on having a DOT tire? (FYI, 1.6ish 60' times is actually pretty good) If you can go to an ET Drag, that is the best change I had ever made (years back). About 12 years back, I have a 90LX hatch - stock motor w/ 125shot, and a 2.73 gear. Launched on the rev limiter, on the spray with ET Drags and it dead hooked, pulled a wheel and ran loowww 12s - 1.54 60'

Dark Knight · Aug 8, 2006

Mines fully tubbed, but all steel. If it was me, and I had the $$$, I'd find an old 6 banger car and put the engine, narrowed rear and cage it etc. And put in a nice 351w in the car you have now with the suspension you have for it. Make a fun daily driver and you'd a nasty semi track car too..

67Dylan · Aug 8, 2006

Yeah, DK has one bitchin' looking car... and it's not even finished!! He also has a good plan on what you should do. 6 banger cars are fairly plentiful and in various conditions depending on how much you want to spend, as I'm sure you already know. If you can't go that route, then look into upgrading your suspension and dialing it in... you're not at it's limit. Not even close IMO.

BTW, once you tub or mini-tube don't you loose the use of the rear panels and seat? Wouldn't they also need to be 'adjusted' to fit in the same spot w/less space?

muddslide · Aug 8, 2006

I have all the aftermarket suspension parts they make. A complete Calvert Racing suspension with drag launch front springs and 90/10's, no sway bar. The best 60' is a 1.6ish high as 1.7's... Thats bad with my combo, i'm pushing big numbers and those times are frustrating. I need less weight and more traction. I have m/t et streets which are basicly a slick with lines cut in them. I have tried my Rancho 9000's on different setting still bad 60' times. My problem is with a trans break, my 671 is at almost full boost when I launch. I guess I could try to lower my rpm's at launch but then my converter would flash and blow my tires off. I was told to launch as close to convertor lock as possible, it helped a little.

I am thinking of tubbing the rear and trying to lighten the car. I have a lot of cash in my rolling chassis and don't think I can get a fair price for it, so I might keep it. My only hope is somee one is trying to build the same car and already has a motor, then I might get fair money so my car.

muddslide · Aug 8, 2006

I am thinking about a full tube chassis and keeping my car also. Putting my blown 347 in the track car and putting a 351 in my current car and keeping it as a fun daily driver.

washMO66 · Aug 8, 2006

muddslide said:
The best 60' is a 1.6ish high as 1.7's... Thats bad with my combo, i'm pushing big numbers and those times are frustrating. .

With the power you are making those 60' times are not where you should be, you should be cutting 1.40ish times, I was cutting 1.59 short times on my old 347 combo with a lot less torque and stock suspension, I am confident that my short times are going to go down to low 1.5's with stock suspension on my new set up which is only different by a stall, a cam, a brake and more carb...... I was footbraking a 2500 stall to 1.59's with 3.70's...

washMO66 · Aug 8, 2006

PS - get an extra set of wheels for the track and put some Hoosier slicks on the car, you will be happy. I have had Mickeys and hoosier and the Hoosiers worked better for me...

Dark Knight · Aug 8, 2006

muddslide said:
I am thinking about a full tube chassis and keeping my car also. Putting my blown 347 in the track car and putting a 351 in my current car and keeping it as a fun daily driver.

Isn't that what I said?
Are you running the stock rear leaf springs? Tried different tire pressures? What all is done to the rear suspension?

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