Things are always a hassle. The front bars for the axle sounded like a good way to strengthen it. However, they don't clear the tail pipes, not by a long shot. So I guess they will have to come off for now. I drove around with dumps on the car for over a decade, and I am not going back to that. I got tired of sitting at red lights and getting high on my own supply.
I'll have to go to a bigger exhaust when I get a new engine anyway. Any ideas for side exit exhaust with subframe connectors. Cutting the ones in there out is a huge hassle. Although I imagine that if I do 12 point cage, they will no longer be necessary anyway.
Kurt
I'll have to go to a bigger exhaust when I get a new engine anyway. Any ideas for side exit exhaust with subframe connectors. Cutting the ones in there out is a huge hassle. Although I imagine that if I do 12 point cage, they will no longer be necessary anyway.
Kurt
Attachments
There is a sn95 model with side exhaust, can't remember maybe a s351, the muffler has an outlet on the same end as the inlet, may not work for you. @95steedamustang may know.
Found spin tech for roush and JBA also
Found spin tech for roush and JBA also
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There is a sn95 model with side exhaust, can't remember maybe a s351, the muffler has an outlet on the same end as the inlet, may not work for you. @95steedamustang may know.
Found spin tech for roush and JBA also
I'm more looking for creative ways around the subframe connectors. There were SVO Mustang side skirts that had side exhaust. Long since out of production. I am sure I will have to do a custom made exhaust, because I will be stepping up to to 3" or 3.5" exhuast pipes.
Kurt
Oval pipes can help with clearance, just a thought.
I'm learning about those now. These are the side skirts you were talking about. That price is pretty normal.
1994-1998 Mustang Svo Side Skirts For Side Exhaust | eBay
Find great deals for 1994-1998 Mustang Svo Side Skirts For Side Exhaust. Shop with confidence on eBay!
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Kurt
Don’t buy the ones on eBay. They are junk.There is a sn95 model with side exhaust, can't remember maybe a s351, the muffler has an outlet on the same end as the inlet, may not work for you. @95steedamustang may know.
Found spin tech for roush and JBA also
I am running svo side exhaust on my 94 cobra. I have a new old stock borla svo setup that I’m using. But I did thru the floor subframes to Avoid the subframe exhaust clearance issue since my car will be really low. The only option with side exhaust and subframes is to flatten the pipe some where it pass the subframe or just live with the issues of both living in the same space. On one customer car. We built some subframes and ran the side exhaust thru it but I wouldn’t on my car. I do have a couple extra sets of the svo side exhaust covers.
If it was me, I’d be either rethinking a different path farther out towards the spring where the rear brace gets closer to the rear, or,..cut notches in the floor to allow the exhaust to move forward. Side exit exhaust will not solve the “ getting high on your own supply“, as the exit point will be exactly where a dumped muffler would be. Not to mention the flattening of the pipe to get it past the SF, and the ground clearance that you’ll sacrifice.Things are always a hassle. The front bars for the axle sounded like a good way to strengthen it. However, they don't clear the tail pipes, not by a long shot. So I guess they will have to come off for now. I drove around with dumps on the car for over a decade, and I am not going back to that. I got tired of sitting at red lights and getting high on my own supply.
I'll have to go to a bigger exhaust when I get a new engine anyway. Any ideas for side exit exhaust with subframe connectors. Cutting the ones in there out is a huge hassle. Although I imagine that if I do 12 point cage, they will no longer be necessary anyway.
Kurt
Side exit=weak
Dynomax makes a muffler that makes side-exit exhaust easier, it has the inlet and outlet on the same end of the muffler. Here they are on ElSuperPinto:
In the picture, my actual exhaust tips are missing because they were in the way of the lift, so I took them off. Having had this setup a few years, I'm forced to agree with Mike that it's a bad idea, even with the tips on so that the exhaust makes it all the way out of the car, it just drifts up the side of the car and into the cockpit through the windows when sitting at a stoplight, when staging at the drag strip, idling through a parking lot, etc.
I have plans to redesign it with 120-degree pipes to bring the exits back to the rear wheels, but I'm not 100% that'll solve the "getting high on my own supply" issue.
On the bright side, it's MUCH quieter than dumps in every way.
In the picture, my actual exhaust tips are missing because they were in the way of the lift, so I took them off. Having had this setup a few years, I'm forced to agree with Mike that it's a bad idea, even with the tips on so that the exhaust makes it all the way out of the car, it just drifts up the side of the car and into the cockpit through the windows when sitting at a stoplight, when staging at the drag strip, idling through a parking lot, etc.
I have plans to redesign it with 120-degree pipes to bring the exits back to the rear wheels, but I'm not 100% that'll solve the "getting high on my own supply" issue.
On the bright side, it's MUCH quieter than dumps in every way.
If it was me, I’d be either rethinking a different path farther out towards the spring where the rear brace gets closer to the rear, or,..cut notches in the floor to allow the exhaust to move forward. Side exit exhaust will not solve the “ getting high on your own supply“, as the exit point will be exactly where a dumped muffler would be. Not to mention the flattening of the pipe to get it past the SF, and the ground clearance that you’ll sacrifice.
Side exit=weak
I'm forced to agree with you. I'm much rather have tail pipes. Not to mention real mufflers, which I don't think I can make work with a side exhaust. I'll have to get the car on a roll on life sometime and really do some thinking. There is almost nothing in the way of space between the upper control arm, and the frame rail. Maybe the oval piping will make it work. I figure I have at least 4 years to work on this problem.
Kurt
If it was me, I’d be either rethinking a different path farther out towards the spring where the rear brace gets closer to the rear, or,..cut notches in the floor to allow the exhaust to move forward. Side exit exhaust will not solve the “ getting high on your own supply“, as the exit point will be exactly where a dumped muffler would be. Not to mention the flattening of the pipe to get it past the SF, and the ground clearance that you’ll sacrifice.
Side exit=weak
Thanks for the advice. I went out there and looked at it again with the wheel off. It's going to require a lot of bends, but it is completely do able.
Kurt
Not to mention real mufflers, which I don't think I can make work with a side exhaust....
Kurt
Dynomax makes a muffler that makes side-exit exhaust easier, it has the inlet and outlet on the same end of the muffler. Here they are on ElSuperPinto:
Seen and answered to previous replys. The jist is that I just put a big power axle in, to be followed by some big power chassis work, in an anticipation of the hope that I might put a big power power train in. I'm looking to be in the realm of 1000 rwhp, and a 2.5" muffler setup just isn't relevant. I did see it though, and I do appreciate your input. I know that it sounds ridiculous that I want a 1000rwhp car to have tail pipes or side exhaust, but they are doing it on the new Mustangs, and I want to do it too.
Kurt
There's a guy on the LS boards puting 1060RWHP down through Stainless Works 2.5" mufflers... but they probably flow better than those crazy Dynomaxes.
There's a guy on the LS boards puting 1060RWHP down through Stainless Works 2.5" mufflers... but they probably flow better than those crazy Dynomaxes.
That's good to know. His exhaust is probably holding him back though. I don't know how anything could flow better than these Dynomaxes, you can drop a pool ball through them.
Kurt
WhiteCobra95
10 Year Member
- May 2, 2006
- 631
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Is that blue axle in the picture the finished product?!? That's pretty exciting! I've been checking in regularly for the write-up.
Is that blue axle in the picture the finished product?!? That's pretty exciting! I've been checking in regularly for the write-up.
Yes, it's the finished product. So far I think I have several $ hundred flushed down the toilet. I'll update the write up when it's driving again. I don't want anyone to lose as much money as I have on this project. Stupid things like buying a forward brace kit from UPR, only to find out it doesn't clear standard tail pipes. Also, Moser Engineering might have a good product, but not a very refined one; The brakes were 12/100ths off on one side, and 14/100ths off on the other side. So you can pretty much count on having to shim the brakes to fit. By the way, shimming the brakes is a relative term. Technically Fastenal can get bolt shims out of Inidiana in about a week; in Imperial, not metric. If it's any help, the M12 flat washers from Home Depot are right about 12/100ths, and their lock washers are right about 14/100ths.
Kurt
Attachments
I don’t know,....There are plenty of 2 Jz goobs out there putting 700 hp out through a single 3-3.5” exhaust, and over 1000 out of a single 4” . I personally plan for mid 600’s through a single 3.Seen and answered to previous replys. The jist is that I just put a big power axle in, to be followed by some big power chassis work, in an anticipation of the hope that I might put a big power power train in. I'm looking to be in the realm of 1000 rwhp, and a 2.5" muffler setup just isn't relevant. I did see it though, and I do appreciate your input. I know that it sounds ridiculous that I want a 1000rwhp car to have tail pipes or side exhaust, but they are doing it on the new Mustangs, and I want to do it too.
Kurt
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HotFox
15 Year Member
You can always do what I did and do a custom 3" under the axle. This was to clear the anti roll bar.
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