Single Stage Paint issues

I like to use NON-ABRASIVE polishes - my favorite is sold in automotive paint supply stores - it looks like Pepto-Bismol - it is called synthetic cutting compound. You can also get a swirl remover to do the same thing. They take almost no paint off but remove the oxidation. I like to polish by hand anywhere near a body line and only LIGHTLY use a buffer on slow speed. After finishing up with the cutting compound I use NuFinish liquid in the orange bottle to give it the finishing touch so you can see your reflection in that 15 year old acrylic enamel paint. I have also airbrushed in lots of small marks over the years with some pre-mixed paint from the local auto paint supplier - they will mix it to match if you bring the car to them and then just add the blending agents, hardener, etc... and put a little in a cheap air brush and shoot just the damaged area and feather it out. After letting it cure for 3 days lightly wet sand the area out with some 1000 grit and then finish off with 2000 grit wet sand and lightly rub it with a high gloss finishing glaze sold in auto paint supply stores - BOY does it really POP! after you are done!

You can still buff the car just don't hold it on a spot, and start with a medium cut and good pad. Just clay barring it will help alot. I see you have a red car, and from my exprenice the clay and a good couple coats of wax are time well spent. I use some stuff that is getting hard to find, but is awsome for my red 90, it is called "Wet" made by Eagle One. I have used alot of different waxes but, on the red "Wet" is great.

You need a polish without a silicone base. The majority of your swirl removers ets will lack the silicone agent. Think of it as an even finer sand paper. Just read the back of the bottle. I have some 3m stuff but a buddy just got a bottle for half the price I paid through his local NAPA. Same stuff most people use on the clear for multi stage paint.