Skirtless

Black1987

my wife Bedazzled my input shaft
15 Year Member
Jan 9, 2011
1,064
595
174
NC
Well, finally got my 95 running. The car was bought as a shell except for a really nice rear-end with 373s, and some other suspension upgrades. The car has an aftermarket cobra r hood from somewhere with hood pins. The thing that ticks me off is the hood is a bolt on and the guy just used hood pins :shrug:.

So, one day at the track he forgot the pins and the hood went for a slide :bs:. The car was mainly a drag car and has no side skirts. My question is there any pics of Mustang without side-skirts? Also, any inputs on color like a nice variations of red or burgundy? Is the hood salvageable? Thanks!

95cobra.webp



95cobra2.webp


95cobra1.webp


hoodsn95.webp
 
83 V6 car swapped to V8. Etch green, I need to move it back with the other Mustangs. The latch on the cobra r hood was untouched, so where the mounting bolts.


4-eyes3.webp
 
I've repaired a lot of fiberglass hoods in my day.

Is it repairable...yes.
Is it worth repairing...no

Any decent body man will want more in labor to strip and repair than you could just buy a good quality hood for. (cervinies, ho fibertrends, kaneen, or stock 96-98 cobra)

Look and see if its just paint that is cracking or if there are stress cracks in the fiberglass itself, first. If you want to repair it yourself, pm me.

I would strip the paint off that hood and stick it on craigslist. Ive sold countless junk no name hoods there. People who have no idea whats required to make a junk hood right will snap it up.
 
You're suposed to use hood pins, even with bolt on hoods.

Kurt

I know your supposed to use hood pins, but this guy treated the hood as a lift off. He didn't even bolt the hood down or install the latch. :nonono:

I'll go strip the hood down with some 220 and take more pics. If it's not worth saving, then I'll go another route.

Thanks for the inputs!
 
I would start with a pressure washer because it looks like a lot of the paint is already loose and may come off with that. Then go with 80 grit on a DA if possible on the paint. Then when you get to the actual fiberglass, switch to 180 to get the little pieces of paint off. If you have never stripped one with 80 on a DA before, you may want to just use the 180 from the start but it will take much longer and use more material.

If you do have stress cracks in the fiberglass, you will need to make a v groove through the cracks with a die grinder, then fill with fiberglass or ( I use jet bond). then block down, put some putty on top of that, then block down, then block down the whole hood filling and blocking any remaining high or low spots. When all of that is good, go with a high build 2 k primer, guidecoat, block with 220, more 2 k, guidecoat, then block down with 400 wet maybe 600 depending on if you want to use a dark color.
 
I use SEM guidecoat in a spray bomb can but you can also use a krylon or any other cheap brand's flat black. Just make sure you sand all of it off.

Oh and never use BBQ paint for anything automotive because even if you sand all of it off. I have see it still wrinkle when primer is applied to where it was. I know it sounds crazy for someone to use BBQ paint, but Ive seen it done.
 
Little update, the Cobra R hood won't work out without a lot of fiberglass work. So, went digging though are parts barn and remember about 4 years ago a gift from the gf/parents was this supposedly OEM replacement 96/98 cobra hood. I wish I knew where the hood was purchased from.

cobra96.webp


cobra963.webp


Looks like there was a bubble in the fiberglass and it hit something in shipment.

cobra962.webp


cobra961.webp