"Slight" problems

I purchased my 90 GT last august, when I bought it I knew there were problems ( hey for 600, I didnt care)- I'm about to take the AOD out and put in a T5, that solves on problem. here's some more
- power steering pressure hose is leaking- how difficult is that to get to on the rack side of the hose?
- check engine light flashes during first couple of miles, is it because she's still too cold? I try to warm her up at least 5 mins.
- dang fuel pump is whinning like hell, is that normal, stock BTW?
- just last night, after changing the t-stat, ran great, drove, no prob. THEN i got home, cleaned her up, idled her for awhile, she started to stumble, fuel pump I think was making more noise, I was on the last line on my fuel gauge, pump going bad?

Any help would really be appreciated, thanks in advance!
 
At1Maverick69 said:
I purchased my 90 GT last august, when I bought it I knew there were problems ( hey for 600, I didnt care)- I'm about to take the AOD out and put in a T5, that solves on problem. here's some more
- power steering pressure hose is leaking- how difficult is that to get to on the rack side of the hose?
- check engine light flashes during first couple of miles, is it because she's still too cold? I try to warm her up at least 5 mins.
- dang fuel pump is whinning like hell, is that normal, stock BTW?
- just last night, after changing the t-stat, ran great, drove, no prob. THEN i got home, cleaned her up, idled her for awhile, she started to stumble, fuel pump I think was making more noise, I was on the last line on my fuel gauge, pump going bad?

Any help would really be appreciated, thanks in advance!
what is your fuel pressure?
what codes are you getting?

good luck.
 
At1Maverick69 said:
how would u install a pressure gauge? and where? I'm about to pull codes tommorow
on the pass side is a schrader valve (behind the alternator, IIRC). simply thread the gauge on there.

do you have a repair manual yet? great way to spend some money. good luck.
 
The power steering hose can be difficult. You get about 1/8 turn at a time with it bolted up in position. To drop the rack to get eaiser access to the fittings, remove the 2 rack mount nuts, remove the 2 piece rubber bushings. Then remove the 2 bolts that hold the steering coupling together. At at point you shuld be able to pull the rack out far enough to gain access to the fittings without disconnecting the tie rod ends.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart .