Smog Delete

[mustanglx91]

I am planing to add a cat less x pipe to my car. I wanted to delete the smog pump. I know I have to plug the back of the heads. But what else has to be done to make the car run right? What has to be done to the vacum lines? Also what belt size should I run? I heard a 84.5inch but wanted to be sure. Thanks

 

[ryan218]

I am planing to add a cat less x pipe to my car. I wanted to delete the smog pump. I know I have to plug the back of the heads. But what else has to be done to make the car run right? What has to be done to the vacum lines? Also what belt size should I run? I heard a 84.5inch but wanted to be sure. Thanks

yes 84.5" belt fits perfect, thats what size i tried out!

 

[bloopbloob]

2 plugs on the back of the heads, a shorter belt, remove all the plumbing, and cap or weld your crossover pipe. thats about it. are you taking it off or just bypassing the pump?

 

[mustanglx91]

I would to take the pump off.

 

[mustanglx91]

What about the vaccum lines on the smog control?

 

[bloopbloob]

oh, right! there is 1 vacuum line iirc that i plugged...

 

[ninety15.0]

You will have a KAM error code...IIRC it will be 81. There is some sort of resistor fix/hack job you can do to eliminate that code. Should have no ill effects on the car though.

 

[ryan218]

You will have a KAM error code...IIRC it will be 81. There is some sort of resistor fix/hack job you can do to eliminate that code. Should have no ill effects on the car though.

what dose IIRC mean?

if i recall correctly?

 

[ttop88]

what dose IIRC mean?

if i recall correctly?

Remember, but
Yup, good enough

 

[mustanglx91]

Will this affect how the car runs? I read that they sometimes run rich after deleting the pump and cats.

 

[Foxfan88]

you shouldnt notice any difference in how the car drives. the exhaust may have a gassy/exhaust gas smell to it that it didnt have before. this is a result of the smog and cats being gone, the crap in the exhaust isnt getting burned up from the smog pump. so it goes out the tail pipe and may smell. but the engine should run the same ...

a little trick for plugging the back of the heads.

take the air injecton tube out and CUT the little heads off ( that bolt to the head) and flip them around and bolt them back in place. it will cover the hole. its a hillbilly fix but it works lol

 

[mustanglx91]

Thanks for all your help. If anybody else has anything to say about it, please do.

 

[bloopbloob]

a little trick for plugging the back of the heads.

take the air injecton tube out and CUT the little heads off ( that bolt to the head) and flip them around and bolt them back in place. it will cover the hole. its a hillbilly fix but it works lol

that is one option, you can also use a broken off spark plug to plug the hole, or the bolt size is 5/8", 11 threads per inch, and about 1" long.

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

yes the sparkplug thing works great!!!

 

[85hatchgt]

uhhh maybe im an odd one but i had to use a 76 inch belt to fit mine with stock pullies and all after deleting the smog pump

 

[Mr. Rustypwnz]

you got a/c?

 

[jrichker]

TAB & TAD solenoid valve eliminators – eliminate codes 81 & 82 and 44 & 94

Don’t do this if you have a catalytic converter H pipe. The catalytic converters must have the air from the smog pump or they will clog up and choke.

See www.Newark.com for the resistors to replace the TAB & TAD solenoids

http://www.newark.com/jsp/Passives/Wirewound/OHMITE/43F82RE/displayProduct.jsp?sku=64K8974
If the link fails do a search using the park number
82 ohm, 3 watt wirewound resistor, 94 cents each.
Newark P/N 64K8974
Ohmite part # 43F82RE.

Pay a visit to your local Radio Shack to get some heat shrink and some crimp on tap terminals. They do not stock the resistors. Or you can use the Ford connector pin kit from AutoZone.

18 gauge crimp on taps Catalog #: 64-3053

Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area.

Two flat pin connectors.
One 82 ohm, 3 watt resistor.
One piece 3/8" heat sink tubing 2" long.
Two pieces 3/16" heat shrink tubing 1 1/2" long.
Solder the pins onto the resistor leads using electrical solder.
Slide the 3/8" heat shrink tubing over the resistor.
Slide the two pieces of 3/16" heat shrink tubing over the two wires, leaving the flat part of the pins uncovered.

It helps to have the resistor leads straight and not bent as shown in the first picture when you apply heat to the heat shrink tubing. That way, the tubing shrinks more evenly.
Finally, apply heat to shrink all the tubing uniformly.

Bend the leads to fit the spacing on the female TAB & TAD connector sockets.

Push the connector pins of the completed resistor assembly into the empty female TAD or TAD connector sockets on the wiring harness. The resistor assemblies replace the missing solenoids: one resistor assembly per solenoid socket.

Do not crimp on the pins and wrap the mess with electrical tape and say you got the idea from me. If you do, and I hear of it, I will say unkind things about your intelligence and family heritage. Do Quality Work!

This information is for informational purposes only and is intended for use only on off road vehicles. It should not be used on any vehicle operated on public roads.

Operating a vehicle modified in such a manner on public roads is a violation of the EPA codes regarding modification of emission controlled vehicles.

 

[mustanglx91]

Thanks, thats a big help !!!

 

[scld1354]

Hi guys. I am going to be doing this also, and I have two questions. Where did you get the flat pin connectors? What was the purpose of the crimp on tap terminals and the ford connector pin kit?
Thanks
Jon