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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

smog pump delete

  • Thread starter Thread starter ponyrod
  • Start date Start date Jan 28, 2004
P

ponyrod

New Member
Jan 28, 2004
3
0
0
Jan 28, 2004
#1
  • Jan 28, 2004
  • #1
i was wondering if any of you can tell me exactly what else i will need to do when i remove my smog pump, so that i do everything that i need to.
 

a_turbo_stang

Member
Apr 13, 2003
346
0
16
Cincinnati Ohio
Jan 28, 2004
#2
  • Jan 28, 2004
  • #2
If you just want to delete it and not use it you can get a short belt and bypass it.
 
P

ponyrod

New Member
Jan 28, 2004
3
0
0
Jan 28, 2004
#3
  • Jan 28, 2004
  • #3
do i need to plug off the tubing at the back of the heads and get rid of all the hoses?
 

FiveOhhStang

New Member
Jan 27, 2003
299
0
0
Sanger, Cali.
Jan 28, 2004
#4
  • Jan 28, 2004
  • #4
You can Either
A) By pass the Pump(and leave it on) using a smaller belt
or
B) Remove it completely, I think you need to plug the pipe that connects to your Cat..not sure thought, where do you live? is it a daily driver, or track demon?
-Nick
 
P

ponyrod

New Member
Jan 28, 2004
3
0
0
Jan 28, 2004
#5
  • Jan 28, 2004
  • #5
i live in michigan, it only comes out of the garage in the summer and i spend all winter working on it.
 

djk8705

New Member
Sep 30, 2003
154
0
0
Fairfax, Va
Jan 28, 2004
#6
  • Jan 28, 2004
  • #6
So will sombody please tell him what he needs so that he can cap off the back of each heads. I need to know too thats all... I was just looking and it seems like i just 1)run the shorter belt 2) pull all that crap 3)cap the midpipe (with what?) 4) cap both holes in the back of the heads (with what??)

Thanks And what else did i miss???

-Dan
 
J

jerry beach

Founding Member
May 20, 2002
2,671
0
46
Ocala,FL
Jan 28, 2004
#7
  • Jan 28, 2004
  • #7
You can take 2 spark plugs, break the porcelain off of them and screw the stubs into the back of the heads out of site. Then you cut the tube going to the H- pipe, smash it shut and have a shop weld it. Some folks cut it and put on a rubber heater hose cap, and a hose clamp. I just cut that part out of my pipe and gutted the front converters and trashed the rear ones. Get a short belt and route it like this. You can use a string to measure, keep it mind this is for underdrives.
 

djk8705

New Member
Sep 30, 2003
154
0
0
Fairfax, Va
Jan 29, 2004
#8
  • Jan 29, 2004
  • #8
"keep it mind this is for underdrives."

What if I am not using underdrive pulleys??? I still route the belt the same way as if I am right? im confused....
Thanks
 
9

92MNstanger

Founding Member
Nov 8, 2001
548
0
0
Minnesota
Jan 29, 2004
#9
  • Jan 29, 2004
  • #9
to plug the holes you will need a 5/8-11 (coarse) bolt. Or you could go to Ford and ask for thermactor plugs. There will be a lot of carbon in those threads. It may seem likr they aren't there, but they are. I sprayed the hole with carb cleaner and worked a bolt back and forth ( like tapping threads) to loosen up the carbon. That got it pretty clean. Then you can ditch all of the tubing ( rubber and metal) and the solenoids. Get a short belt and an offraod pipe. You will be good to go.
 

MadMatt5oh

Member
Jan 10, 2003
441
0
16
St Paul, MN
Jan 29, 2004
#10
  • Jan 29, 2004
  • #10
92MNstanger said:
to plug the holes you will need a 5/8-11 (coarse) bolt. Or you could go to Ford and ask for thermactor plugs. There will be a lot of carbon in those threads. It may seem likr they aren't there, but they are. I sprayed the hole with carb cleaner and worked a bolt back and forth ( like tapping threads) to loosen up the carbon. That got it pretty clean. Then you can ditch all of the tubing ( rubber and metal) and the solenoids. Get a short belt and an offraod pipe. You will be good to go.
Click to expand...


92MNStanger youve got a PM bro
 

88STANGCONVERT

Founding Member
Aug 27, 2001
622
0
0
TRI-CITIES, WASHINGTON
Jan 29, 2004
#11
  • Jan 29, 2004
  • #11
This is fairly easy to do and as others have said there are several ways to do it. I tried the Ford therm. plugs which go in the back of the head, but mine are not threaded and the plugs did not work, plus the room you have to work there is min. to none. So what i did was take a piece of alum. cut it to the pattern of the steel line that came off, drilled a hole in it just like the orig. had and put some high heat silicon on it and plugged it that way. You can not see it and it works great. It is bolted on just like the original. Another way is to use the orig. piece, cut the line off and flip them around and use the right side one on the left and the left one on the right. Better idea maybe then mine, I just did not think of it before I did my idea.
Good luck, you will like how much room you will have if you take all that crap out, if you emissions let you.
 
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