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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Smog Pump Function - COLD

  • Thread starter Thread starter DonMaximo
  • Start date Start date Jan 6, 2008
D

DonMaximo

Member
Sep 25, 2003
217
5
19
Lewisville, Texas
Jan 6, 2008
#1
  • Jan 6, 2008
  • #1
My new motor is using Dart Pro-1 heads which have no provision for the smog pump lines to the heads.

It's my understanding that air is directed into the stock heads when the engine is cold - afterwards air is directed into exhaust pipes to aid the catalytic converters in performing their function.

What's your opinion of what I should be doing to disable the function of moving air to the heads ?

I'll be purchasing a Tweecer RT system in the next month or so. Car is far from finished, so I have time.

Please advise.

Thank you.
 

jrichker

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#2
  • Jan 6, 2008
  • #2
Some review of how it works...

The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) supplies air to the heads or catalytic converters. This air helps break down the excess HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide). The air supplied to the catalytic converters helps create the catalytic reaction that changes the HC & CO into CO2 and water vapor. Catalytic converters on 5.0 Mustangs are designed to use the extra air provided by the smog pump. Without the extra air, the catalytic converters will clog and fail.

The Thermactor air pump draws air from an inlet filter in the front of the pump. The smog pump puts air into the heads when the engine is cold and then into the catalytic converters when it is warm. The Thermactor control valves serve to direct the flow. The first valve, TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) or AM1 valve) either dumps air to the atmosphere or passes it on to the second valve. The second valve, TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter valve or AM2 valve) directs it to the heads or the catalytic converters. Check valves located after the TAB & TAD solenoids prevent hot exhaust gases from damaging the control valves or pump in case of a backfire. The air serves to help consume any unburned hydrocarbons by supplying extra oxygen to the catalytic process. The computer tells the Thermactor Air System to open the dump valve at WOT (wide open throttle) minimizing engine drag. The dump valve reduces the parasitic drag caused by the smog pump to about 2-4 HP at WOT. The dump valve also opens during deceleration to reduce or prevent backfires.






Computer operation & control for the Thermactor Air System
Automobile computers use current sink technology. They do not source power to any relay, solenoid or actuator like the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors. Instead the computer provides a ground path for the positive battery voltage to get back to the battery negative terminal. That flow of power from positive to negative is what provides the energy to make the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors work. No ground provided by the computer, then the actuators and relays don't operate.

One side of the any relay/actuator/solenoid in the engine compartment will be connected to a red wire that has 12-14 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side will have 12-14 volts when the relay/actuator/solenoid isn't turned on. Once the computer turns on the clamp side, the voltage on the computer side of the wire will drop down to 1 volt or less.

In order to test the TAD/TAB solenoids, you need to ground the white/red wire on the TAB solenoid or the light green/black wire on the TAD solenoid.

For 94-95 cars: the colors are different. The White/Red wire (TAB control) is White/Orange (Pin 31 on the PCM). The Green/Black wire (TAD control) should be Brown (pin 34 at the PCM). Thanks to HISSIN50 for this tip.

To test the computer, you can use a test light across the TAB or TAD wiring connectors and dump the codes. When you dump the codes, the computer does a self test that toggles every relay/actuator/solenoid on and off. When this happens, the test light will flicker.

Now that you have a good diagram to see the flow, I can explain the fix. Remove the diverter valve and connect the output of the bypass valve directly to the check valve for the cat converter air feed tube. That will direct airflow to the converters all the time the system is in cruse mode. At deceleration, idle and WOT, the air is dumped overboard.
 
D

DonMaximo

Member
Sep 25, 2003
217
5
19
Lewisville, Texas
Jan 6, 2008
#3
  • Jan 6, 2008
  • #3
Fantastic Education + beautifully simple solution.

MANY thanks again bro !!
 
D

DonMaximo

Member
Sep 25, 2003
217
5
19
Lewisville, Texas
Nov 20, 2008
#4
  • Nov 20, 2008
  • #4
jrichker said:
Some review of how it works...

The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) supplies air to the heads or catalytic converters. This air helps break down the excess HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide). The air supplied to the catalytic converters helps create the catalytic reaction that changes the HC & CO into CO2 and water vapor. Catalytic converters on 5.0 Mustangs are designed to use the extra air provided by the smog pump. Without the extra air, the catalytic converters will clog and fail.

The Thermactor air pump draws air from an inlet filter in the front of the pump. The smog pump puts air into the heads when the engine is cold and then into the catalytic converters when it is warm. The Thermactor control valves serve to direct the flow. The first valve, TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) or AM1 valve) either dumps air to the atmosphere or passes it on to the second valve. The second valve, TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter valve or AM2 valve) directs it to the heads or the catalytic converters. Check valves located after the TAB & TAD solenoids prevent hot exhaust gases from damaging the control valves or pump in case of a backfire. The air serves to help consume any unburned hydrocarbons by supplying extra oxygen to the catalytic process. The computer tells the Thermactor Air System to open the dump valve at WOT (wide open throttle) minimizing engine drag. The dump valve reduces the parasitic drag caused by the smog pump to about 2-4 HP at WOT. The dump valve also opens during deceleration to reduce or prevent backfires.






Computer operation & control for the Thermactor Air System
Automobile computers use current sink technology. They do not source power to any relay, solenoid or actuator like the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors. Instead the computer provides a ground path for the positive battery voltage to get back to the battery negative terminal. That flow of power from positive to negative is what provides the energy to make the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors work. No ground provided by the computer, then the actuators and relays don't operate.

One side of the any relay/actuator/solenoid in the engine compartment will be connected to a red wire that has 12-14 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side will have 12-14 volts when the relay/actuator/solenoid isn't turned on. Once the computer turns on the clamp side, the voltage on the computer side of the wire will drop down to 1 volt or less.

In order to test the TAD/TAB solenoids, you need to ground the white/red wire on the TAB solenoid or the light green/black wire on the TAD solenoid.

For 94-95 cars: the colors are different. The White/Red wire (TAB control) is White/Orange (Pin 31 on the PCM). The Green/Black wire (TAD control) should be Brown (pin 34 at the PCM). Thanks to HISSIN50 for this tip.

To test the computer, you can use a test light across the TAB or TAD wiring connectors and dump the codes. When you dump the codes, the computer does a self test that toggles every relay/actuator/solenoid on and off. When this happens, the test light will flicker.

Now that you have a good diagram to see the flow, I can explain the fix. Remove the diverter valve and connect the output of the bypass valve directly to the check valve for the cat converter air feed tube. That will direct airflow to the converters all the time the system is in cruse mode. At deceleration, idle and WOT, the air is dumped overboard.
Click to expand...
I appreciate the answer, but I'm wondering if my setup can be simplified further.

In short, what is to prevent me from simply flowing air from the pump directory to the cats ?


And if this is acceptable, do I need to concern myself with the wiring from TAB/TAD sensors which return to the EEC ?
 

93 LX

Founding Member
Jun 2, 2000
3,081
3
0
Norwalk, CA.
Nov 20, 2008
#5
  • Nov 20, 2008
  • #5
Sounds like your eliminating smog all together, why the cats?
 
D

DonMaximo

Member
Sep 25, 2003
217
5
19
Lewisville, Texas
Nov 20, 2008
#6
  • Nov 20, 2008
  • #6
No... not all all... I think this thread got so long it's hard to follow.

I need to keep the pump so the cats work correctly. If you look at the diagram above, there are many other parts between the pump and cats.

Jrichkers astute suggestion was to plumb a line from after the Bypass valve directly to the cats. My question is do I need to even go through that valve at all... since the only purpose for the pump now is to ensure the cats get the oxygen they "NEED" to function correctly.

I may need to repost this question as I fear I may have created too much detail to hold anyone's interest.
 

ID89GT

10 Year Member
May 26, 2008
1,659
18
49
Spokane Valley, WA
Nov 20, 2008
#7
  • Nov 20, 2008
  • #7
I don't see why should just be able to pull the tubing that goes to the back of the cylinder heads off and leave it open, It will just pump air out the hole untill the o2 sensor kicks on then it will switch to pumping it to the cats.. As long as you don't have any ways of having moisture go down inside the plumbing back to the pump and cats I think you should be alright.
 
M

Mussemies

New Member
Sep 30, 2008
6
0
2
Nov 21, 2008
#8
  • Nov 21, 2008
  • #8
Fantastic diagram!! Do you have other ones? For example air conditioning?
 
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