Smog pump problem HELP!

[jrichker]

Is anybody ready to take this **** to the "twilight zone"?

I just went outside and started my car and it's idling perfectly. I am willing to bet that when the car warms up it will start to die. What in the HELL is that a sign of?
The car NOW appears to run fine when it's cold, but won't idle at all when the temperature reaches 170 or 180. WTF?

Once the engine hits normal operating temp, the computer switches from open loop operation to closed loop. Open loop operation uses fewer sensors and a lookup table to operate the computer. It also uses a richer fuel mixture for a cold engine. Closed loop uses all the sensors and a leaner fuel mixture. Dump the codes and look for vacuum leaks.

 

[Ike83]

Is it just possible that with a bigger intake, bigger MAF, bigger TB, and all the works that the car is just going to run funny until it's properly tuned? I mean, even if that were the case, WHY would it get worse AFTER removing the smog pump. I just can't get over the fact that my problem as SERIOUSLY worsened since the smog pump removal.

 

[Ike83]

This is DEFINITELY a surging idle. Up and down (almost dies), up and down (almost dies), up and down (then it DOES die). It's not the EGR, and I CAN hear a faint hissing sound (vacuum leak) but i ALWAYS heard a faint hissing sound though the car still ran decent.

How do I go about getting this TB spacer?

 

[AnthonyR23]

Get that vacuum gauge yet??

 

[Ike83]

Get that vacuum gauge yet??

About to go get one

 

[93 LX]

THIS wire was plugged into the top of the far left black canister in the first picture. Is this what's causing my idle problems b/c it's no longer plugged into the canister b/c I removed the whole thing in the first place. Does this give the computer an air reading or something?
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l59/Hyper26414/Mustang1.jpg

This is a vacuum line.

 

[Ike83]

Alright folks! The numbers are in. We just got a vacuum gauge and I finally got my car to idle against it's will. With my car idling the vacuum gauge READS:

16

Is this normal, low, or high?

 

[Ike83]

To be more specific, sometimes my car idles at 750rpms, other times it's idling at 900.

When it's at 750 the gauge reads 16, but when it's at 900 like it is right now, we're reading the gauge at 17.

Any thoughts?

 

[Ike83]

Does this simply sound like a low idle? Should I invest in a throttle body spacer or step the idle up?

I just can't figure out why removin the smog pump made my idle worse. Is b/c there's less resistance on the engine so it's idling worse? I just don't get it.

 

[Ike83]

Well......I hate to end this thread on such a weird note, but here we go.

Me and my mechanic friend couldn't figure out what the problem was, but somehow the car is running normal again. Oh, and by normal, I mean it's running as good as it was before I removed the smog pump. We went ahead and took the black hose behind the pump BACK off and re-capped the 4 inch hose right before the metal head pipe (basically the same way shown in my pic). We then put a screw in the wire that originally connected to the evap canister and then revved the car up to 4,000 rpms and held it.

When the rpms fell back down it fell right down to a normal idle and stayed.

I drove the car all the way home and it didn't die ONCE. Not even when I slammed on the brakes; not even when I pushed the clutch in on the highway. During either instance the rpms would fall down to 1,000, then down to 600, then back up to 900.

That's it.........true story.

I'm sure I will be having the same problem in the next few days.