Snapped water pump stud, now what?

[SeaCorey]

It's the one on the driver's side that goes into the block. It snapped 1/2" from the nut, so I got the pump off and I do have a good inch or so to grab & turn, but I don't want to make it worse by snapping it again.

Suggestions?
Thanks

 

[liljoe07]

It can be a pain, but heat and vise grips can get it done. You could even use a stud remover that Advance Auto sells relatively cheap.

 

[SeaCorey]

It can be a pain, but heat and vise grips can get it done. You could even use a stud remover that Advance Auto sells relatively cheap.

Thanks Joe, I'm hoping to avoid breaking out the torch. I'll check out the stud remover.

 

[tca7291]

Damm dude, I just went through this just over a month ago. Exact same issue, but I snapped 2 on my drivers side. I ended up having to pull my timing chain cover off in order to get them out. Here is the link to my thread: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/water-pump-nightmare.864763/

 

[2000xp8]

Thanks Joe, I'm hoping to avoid breaking out the torch. I'll check out the stud remover.

Heat will give you the best chance of not breaking it again in a worse spot.

 

[SeaCorey]

Is the propane I have for sweating copper even worth trying, or go right to MAPP?

 

[SeaCorey]

Damm dude, I just went through this just over a month ago. Exact same issue, but I snapped 2 on my drivers side. I ended up having to pull my timing chain cover off in order to get them out. Here is the link to my thread: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/water-pump-nightmare.864763/

Great thread, thanks.

 

[MFE92]

Use PB Blaster or Kroil or some kind of penetrating oil, then twist it loose clockwise. Stuck fasteners always break loose 100x easier in the tighten direction than in the loosen direction.

 

[ID89GT]

Sell it, all hope is lost

 

[madspeed]

el vice gripos

 

[tca7291]

I still prefer a 10" pipe wrench over a pair of viceie grippies.

 

[Maryland Stang]

Is the propane I have for sweating copper even worth trying, or go right to MAPP?

Propane is not even close and I doubt the MAPP is either. You need to heat the material that the stud goes into very fast and very hot. The idea is for the surrounding material to get hot and expand while the stud stays relatively cool.

 

[SeaCorey]

Thanks everyone (except ID89GT of course...), I'm back at it this morning, will post progress.
Entry level question time now - do I RTV the gasket between the pump and the plare that came with it (if so both sides?), or just the gasket brtween that plate and the timing cover?

 

[Mustang5L5]

I still prefer a 10" pipe wrench over a pair of viceie grippies.

Pipe wrench is how i got mine out when it snapped in my block.

A nice new pair really bites into the stud. I'd apply a little heat first and then pipe wrench it out

 

[SeaCorey]

Got it, with PB, propane, 2lb sledge, stud remover from advance, and I'm sure more than a little luck.

Now to put it back together, new stat and all. Thanks everyone.

 

[Noobz347]

Sell it, all hope is lost

 

[mikestang63]

Got it, with PB, propane, 2lb sledge, stud remover from advance, and I'm sure more than a little luck.

Now to put it back together, new stat and all. Thanks everyone.

Please tell us you put anti seize on the new bolts and chased the threads with a tap.

 

[SeaCorey]

Yes, anti-seize a-plenty. I didn't have a tap, but did take time to run studs in and out until they came out clean. Didn't even have any parts left over, seems to be holding together and running fine so far...

 

[jrichker]

Please tell us you put anti seize on the new bolts and chased the threads with a tap.

Smart man - he knows that he will have to do it again if he keeps the car for a long time.