Snapped water pump stud, now what?

SeaCorey · Jan 28, 2013

It's the one on the driver's side that goes into the block. It snapped 1/2" from the nut, so I got the pump off and I do have a good inch or so to grab & turn, but I don't want to make it worse by snapping it again.

Suggestions?
Thanks

liljoe07 · Jan 28, 2013

It can be a pain, but heat and vise grips can get it done. You could even use a stud remover that Advance Auto sells relatively cheap.

SeaCorey · Jan 28, 2013

liljoe07 said:
It can be a pain, but heat and vise grips can get it done. You could even use a stud remover that Advance Auto sells relatively cheap.

Thanks Joe, I'm hoping to avoid breaking out the torch. I'll check out the stud remover.

tca7291 · Jan 28, 2013

Damm dude, I just went through this just over a month ago. Exact same issue, but I snapped 2 on my drivers side. I ended up having to pull my timing chain cover off in order to get them out. Here is the link to my thread: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/water-pump-nightmare.864763/

2000xp8 · Jan 28, 2013

SeaCorey said:
Thanks Joe, I'm hoping to avoid breaking out the torch. I'll check out the stud remover.

Heat will give you the best chance of not breaking it again in a worse spot.

SeaCorey · Jan 28, 2013

Is the propane I have for sweating copper even worth trying, or go right to MAPP?

SeaCorey · Jan 28, 2013

tca7291 said:
Damm dude, I just went through this just over a month ago. Exact same issue, but I snapped 2 on my drivers side. I ended up having to pull my timing chain cover off in order to get them out. Here is the link to my thread: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/water-pump-nightmare.864763/

Great thread, thanks.

MFE92 · Jan 28, 2013

Use PB Blaster or Kroil or some kind of penetrating oil, then twist it loose clockwise. Stuck fasteners always break loose 100x easier in the tighten direction than in the loosen direction.

ID89GT · Jan 28, 2013

Sell it, all hope is lost

madspeed · Jan 28, 2013

el vice gripos

tca7291 · Jan 28, 2013

I still prefer a 10" pipe wrench over a pair of viceie grippies.

Maryland Stang · Jan 29, 2013

SeaCorey said:
Is the propane I have for sweating copper even worth trying, or go right to MAPP?

Propane is not even close and I doubt the MAPP is either. You need to heat the material that the stud goes into very fast and very hot. The idea is for the surrounding material to get hot and expand while the stud stays relatively cool.

SeaCorey · Jan 29, 2013

Thanks everyone (except ID89GT of course...), I'm back at it this morning, will post progress.
Entry level question time now - do I RTV the gasket between the pump and the plare that came with it (if so both sides?), or just the gasket brtween that plate and the timing cover?

Mustang5L5 · Jan 29, 2013

tca7291 said:
I still prefer a 10" pipe wrench over a pair of viceie grippies.

Pipe wrench is how i got mine out when it snapped in my block.

A nice new pair really bites into the stud. I'd apply a little heat first and then pipe wrench it out

SeaCorey · Jan 29, 2013

Got it, with PB, propane, 2lb sledge, stud remover from advance, and I'm sure more than a little luck.

Now to put it back together, new stat and all. Thanks everyone.

Noobz347 · Jan 29, 2013

ID89GT said:
Sell it, all hope is lost

mikestang63 · Jan 29, 2013

SeaCorey said:
Got it, with PB, propane, 2lb sledge, stud remover from advance, and I'm sure more than a little luck.

Now to put it back together, new stat and all. Thanks everyone.

Please tell us you put anti seize on the new bolts and chased the threads with a tap.

SeaCorey · Jan 29, 2013

Yes, anti-seize a-plenty. I didn't have a tap, but did take time to run studs in and out until they came out clean. Didn't even have any parts left over, seems to be holding together and running fine so far...

jrichker · Jan 29, 2013

mikestang63 said:
Please tell us you put anti seize on the new bolts and chased the threads with a tap.

Smart man - he knows that he will have to do it again if he keeps the car for a long time.

Snapped water pump stud, now what?

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