Thank you for this.
Quick note, I have a different intake, though the torque specs are prolly super similar.
Im going to do a little research about the stud/bolt. One lame benefit of stud vs bolt is simply assembly. I basically created studs for the head installations so I could position everything.
Im leaning toward the studs, just means Ill need to get started on fitting the engine fans. I cant keep putting this work off, summer is basically around the corner.
Thank you again
My upper intake is completely studded as well. Hell my TB and TB spacer are studded to the upper intake.
The torque specs apply to basically every lower intake that I know of and even the carbureted intakes. Same values and sequence that I use the on Vic Jr on my T-bird with the 351W.
Be sure to clean out the injector bosses. Mine are bare metal as I feel like that gives the o-rings a better chance to seal. Lube the o-rings with some light weight oil prior to installing as that will keep them from cutting or tearing.
The torque specs apply to basically every lower intake that I know of and even the carbureted intakes. Same values and sequence that I use the on Vic Jr on my T-bird with the 351W.
Be sure to clean out the injector bosses. Mine are bare metal as I feel like that gives the o-rings a better chance to seal. Lube the o-rings with some light weight oil prior to installing as that will keep them from cutting or tearing.
Bench tested the contour electrical fan. Next up is to figure out where to wire the controller. @AeroCoupe - you had mentioned you had a spot you liked for the controller and sensor?
I have Mark VIII's on my cars so just a little different. I put the DC Controller on a bracket that is riveted to the core support behind the inner wheel wheel and just behind the bumper. Same place my MSD is located. I'm putting new roller rockers on the car today so when I get to the valve adjustment part I will have the front end up and I can snap a picture or two.
No plastic seals. Just a big bead of RTV sealant, let it sit for about 15-20 min and then put the lower on.
The plastic "caps" are called pintle caps and you can get them at most parts stores:
Vacuum line routing for an Explorer intake:
The plastic "caps" are called pintle caps and you can get them at most parts stores:
Vacuum line routing for an Explorer intake:
Engine - Explorer intake vacuum line diagram
Have seen this question asked a million times. So here's a diagram. This is an EARLY Explorer intake with the EGR port. There were two lower manifolds. The RF-F87E-9K461-BA lower was early and had the bosses present for the ACT. The RF-F87E-9K461-BB lower was later (non-EGR) and lacks the...
Got the replacement pintle cap stuff.
So your saying to let the RTV start to harden before putting on on intake? Just want to be sure.
Sorry for the late response got a call from a buddy to ride shotgun in his 69 fastback to a parking lot full of bad ass cars last night at the local AutoZone.
When you put the RTV on (get the one that is resistant to oil or the one for gear oil) it needs to just skin up where you can touch it and it doesn't stick to your skin. Anyhow that's how I do it.
Look at this video and at about 2:45 he puts it down like I would.
Most say you need to immediately put the lower on but again I will let it sit until it just skins up but you do you.
When you put the RTV on (get the one that is resistant to oil or the one for gear oil) it needs to just skin up where you can touch it and it doesn't stick to your skin. Anyhow that's how I do it.
Look at this video and at about 2:45 he puts it down like I would.
Most say you need to immediately put the lower on but again I will let it sit until it just skins up but you do you.
Reminds me of when my EX friend who owned Two Guards red 911 Porsches, called me to drive one home from town for him.... Yup, I sure could....