Only plug the lower port on the water pump. The upper port is a bypass and goes to the t-stat housing. The ECT sensor will need a 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT reducer bushing (brass, can be found a Lowes or Home Depot) to fit into the lower intake manifold where the tube was attached.
I decided to keep the pipe, maybe something I can try another time. Is a pretty simple change.Big thing is making sue the ECT is in the flow of the coolant as that is the most accurate reading. I know several have it set up like above but I do not know if it is 100% right tuning wise. Someone else will have to chime in on that.
Grab an explorer gt40 heater tube and cut it down if you want to loop it like that., it mounts the sensor at the fitting, the heater tubes are rebuildable with a common O-Ring, pretty sure there's a thread or two on them here.. I need to figure one out for use on a Hiram but that's probably what I'll end up doing.Is heater pipe delete common? Any drawbacks?
Amazon has the tap and drill bit for about $10-12 1/2 npt big sob, think ford intakes are only reason I have npt taps and drills lol.I decided to keep the pipe, maybe something I can try another time. Is a pretty simple change.
That said, I’m unsatisfied with how the heat pipe is seating lower intake port. I got like 4ish threads before it was taking too much leverage to move it. I tried to cleanup the threads best I could but I don’t have a chaser or a tap of that size.
How does this look?Amazon has the tap and drill bit for about $10-12 1/2 npt big sob, think ford intakes are only reason I have npt taps and drills lol.
Crazy - I did a bunch of searching for those types of threads and you found them instantly. Thank you.Man, if you would have never posted the pic of the bracket for the metal fuel lines I would have never known it existed. Might be why plastic lines between the metal fuel lines and those lines the bracket holds were slightly linked on my car. These are the ones I’m talking about:
On the car they were slightly linked which couldn’t have been good for fuel delivery especially with the 331. It did not bother me with the 306’s but when the tuner let me know I was running out of fuel in the 5,000+ rpm range it started to bother me.
With that being said couple of threads on this very subject. These guys say F it and don’t worry about it:
ARP Head Bolts & Fuel Line Bracket?
I purchased ARP head bolts to use when I install the heads on my '87 5.0. The passenger side, front, bottom stock head bolt (behind the alternator) is actually a stud bolt. After this stud bolt is installed, a bracket which holds the two fuel lines is held on the stud part of the bolt by a...stangnet.com
This thread suggests just popping the original bolt back in and torque it up.
Replacing Head Bolts
Interesting situation, can you remove one head bolt to replace it with a studded head bolt? It is the lower front head bolt on an engine that will be running around 10psi (or less) with a blower. The studded bolt, new tty ford part, is needed for a bracket, there is a second choice for attaching...stangnet.com
You could message the General and see what he ended up doing.
Again, I feel that mine not having it probably contributed to the plastic section of the fuel lines having a mild kink.
I forgot to order the EGR spacer / upper intake studs as 2 of mine broke. Got them and a EGR to TB gasket as the BBK only included the intake to spacer.If you can shorten the vacuum line up and it will not rest on the valve cover do it but otherwise I don’t see it as a big deal.
I got stock replacement head bolts, the stud is included.You could message the General and see what he ended up doing.
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