So After A Few High Speed Runs My Car Runs Really Rich???

YOu just asked a question for your own response... "Running Rich" , "Where to look"????

Fuel + Where to Look = Fuel lines, A/F Ratio settings. Make adjustments by rasing the A/F

running too rich will wash out the rings, glaze the cylinder walls and prevent the rings from seating correctly. u need to get it tuned by a pro.

NXSTANG said:

It was running fine for about 6 months with no tune just messing with FP and Timming.Ok So I Scanned for codes and Got KOEO 34,67,85 and KOER 34,13,12,92 what do you think my Problem could Be?

Click to expand...

KOEO Codes:

34 - PFE or EVP circuit above the closed limit of 0.67 volts.
67 - Neutral safety circuit failure.
85 - Canister Purge Solenoid circuit failure.

None of those you need to be too worried about at this point.

KOER Codes:

12 - Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test high RPM check.
13 - Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test low RPM check.
34 - PFE or EVP circuit above the closed limit of 0.67 volts.
92 - HEGO sensor circuit indicates system rich (left side).

Obviously, the left bank is rich all the time, and that is where you need to start looking. How are your plugs?

well looks like you have a IAC issue perhaps and it says your system is running rich. Perhaps you have a O2 sensor issue. Don't go spending money on these parts just yet. When you say it is running rich is that at idle or all the time?

well perhaps the o2 is the problem but maybe not. Have you checked the psi of your fuel rail? did something get bumped? You say you have nitrous is there any chance that the fuel solinoid on the nitrous system stuck open and that is the extra fuel you are getting?

Testing the O2 sensors
Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well
they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the
computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring.
Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer
pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire).
Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter.

Testing the O2 sensor wiring harness
Most of the common multimeters have a resistance scale. Be sure the O2 sensors are
disconnected and measure the resistance from the O2 sensor body harness to the pins
on the computer.

Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance
with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter.
Do not attempt to measure the resistance of the O2 sensors, it may damage them.

The O2 sensor ground (orange wire with a ring terminal on it) is in the wiring harness for
the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts

Replace the O2 sensors in pairs if replacement is indicated. If one is weak or bad, the
other one probably isn't far behind.


Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing, OR one or more injectors stuck open

Do a cylinder balance test: Warm the car's engine up to normal operating
temperature. With the Engine Off, Key OFF, use a jumper wire or paper clip to
put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the
normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The
engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine will shut
off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all
8 injectors, it will flash 99 or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for
cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause
the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the
same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like
it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure

The red wire on each injector is powered up whenever the ignition switch is
in the Run position. The computer provides a ground to complete the circuit
and fire the injector. The injector must have a ground to squirt fuel on
command. A short to ground in the injector return wiring can cause one or
more injectors to be continually open or triggered
The wiring for the injectors may have some bare spots in it causing the
injector to computer control wire to ground out. This would cause the
injector to remain on anytime the key was in the Run position. Remove the
injector wiring connectors from the injector. Note that each injector has one
red wire for power and a non red wire (wire some color other than red) for
computer controlled ground. With the key off, disconnect the computer
connector from the computer. Use an Ohmmeter between the non red wire
and ground. You should see more than 100000 (100K) ohms resistance.


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) &
Stang&2Birds (website host) for help wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds



Using the above diagram, check the resistance between the injector and the
computer. Clean and check the 10 pin connectors since they are a potential
trouble source. Any resistance greater than 1 ohm between the injector to
computer wire and the matching pin on the computer connector is a problem.



See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=6 for more help

jrichker to the rescue. Yep test em first then you will know if they are bad.