So, inflation's a b@#$^, but car part inflation's even worse!

[FastDriver]

The trouble there is that shipping has gone sky too. I mean... You discover a nearly new FMS aluminum driveshaft lying around and pretty much stuck with [local pickup] if it's made out of the kinds of materials you [want] in your parts. lol

I mostly stay away from shipping because I don't want to deal with the hassle. I will only ever buy using paypal with buyer's protection, but I'll never sell with it. Might be hypocritical, but I know I'm not going to screw someone over. Conversely, I have been screwed over on a fairly pricey part (3550 transmission). The guy said that the clutch was done & synchros were bad when neither were true. Ended up refunding him like $400-$500, because the only other option paypal gave me was that he'd send it back and get a full refund. BS! I'm not taking back a transmission that some jack-hole tore up and blamed on me. Sounded like he improperly adjusted the clutch, it wasn't fully disengaging, and then he tore up the synchros. I suppose I could have fought it more, but I was TDY for 4 months at the time in and under the pressure of tons of homework and academics. I didn't have the fight in me. So, I settled.

So, mostly, I don't ship anymore, but if I do, they have to pay me without any recourse and take their chances. That said, paypal buyer's protection really does a good job and bailed me out at least twice, last year, when one guy didn't bother to send the MSD Digital 6+, and the next guy sent a bad one. I'm leaning towards just going only with new electronic stuff in the future, wherever possible.

 

[95BlueStallion]

Yup. I'd love to get a 347 bottom end for my combo, but at these price points I might as well sell off my windsor parts and just go coyote.

Where's the fun in that? (Says a guy who just paid Coyote swap funds for a Dart 363)

While I appreciate the greatness of the Coyote, they just don't have the car shaking lope of a built pushrod engine. To me, that's half the appeal.

 

[General karthief]

A coyote pulls into a car show and people look, meh, then go on, let a push rod engine roll in with that ra-cha-ta......ra-cha-ta..... ra-cha-ta and they will follow the unburnt carbon fuel to where it's try'n to park then three guys and a 'ol lady, high on fumes, will all direct him into a spot.
fascinating

 

[TOOLOW91]

I still wouldn't go Coyote in a fox, even if the financial calculus favored them. So, I admit my bias. That said, is there anything wrong with the M-6010-BOSS 302 blocks? They're only $3k. I guess the competition would be against the $3.7k Dart SHP, or better yet, the $3,400 World Products Man o' War.

The other route would be to find a used aftermarket block on the marketplace. Here are the blocks I remember that can handle significant power. Of them, I believe the Dart Iron Eagle is the best of the best, but if you're open to anything, I'd imagine you can find a pretty good deal on one. Gonna try to go in order of superiority, based on my gut. Open to feedback...

Do we already have a thread that does a run down on all the aftermarket blocks with specs, how to identify, and Pros/Cons? Might be useful, at some point.

2k+ HP category:
- Dart Iron Eagle (4-bolt mains on all 5)
- World Products Man o' War (my understanding is neck-and-neck with Dart IE)

1k+ HP category:
- Dart Sportsman (4-bolt mains on middle 3. No problems making 12-1500 hp)
- SHP (Dart rated at 600hp. WTF? Still put here, because plenty of data out there with people making a LOT more. I thought near same as Sportsman)
- New Ford M-6010-BOSS Block (Short piston skirts may have trouble at 3.4"+ stroke, but apparently better cooling than R302. 1/2" 4-bolt middle-3 mains)
- SVO R302 (Siamese blocks, like the Darts & WP blocks. 7/16" 4-bolt middle-3 mains)
- A4 (non-siamese - limited bore size... Do the research beyond 4.060)

Sub 1k category:
- Original Boss (much thicker main webbing & 4-bolt mains. Rare, expensive, & unless restoring a Boss 302, fuhgettaboutit!)
- 60's 302 (2-bolt, thicker main webbing, 28 oz... right?)
- Mexican 302s (thicker main webbing, maybe not as much as the 60s)
- Stock/FRPP Sportsman blocks (50oz, generally accepted longevity at 500rwhp and 6,500 RPM or less)

That rating on the shp is to justify having 3 diff level blocks in my opinion. I know plenty of guys including myself who make way more on theirs like you said

 

[Mustang5L5]

I just like the idea of engine swaps these days. I like the idea of taking something that shouldn’t be there and making it work.

Hell, i wouldn’t even be opposed to doing an EV swap. Curious how that would work out. I don’t actually want an EV fox, I just want to do the project and sell it.

 

[95BlueStallion]

I just like the idea of engine swaps these days. I like the idea of taking something that shouldn’t be there and making it work.

Hell, i wouldn’t even be opposed to doing an EV swap. Curious how that would work out. I don’t actually want an EV fox, I just want to do the project and sell it.

Do it to the New Edge!

 

[bird_dog0347]

My car is all about a "swap"... hence the name Frankenstang. It's quite literally a mix of everything from 79-04 just taking the best from each option. And just FYI, the 4.6 Teksid block and crank are good to like 1500ish HP.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Do it to the New Edge!

Ha.. Kids won't let me. They really enjoy driving in that car with the top down. It would bum them out if i turned it into a project.