So whos 96-98 running pi cam/ pi intake?
- Thread starter justinschmidt1
- Start date
LI98GTStang
Founding Member
The combo was worth approx. 20rwhp on the dyno for me. Sorry, haven't been on the track as of yet - actually eva.
I'm curious to as why you "only" picked up ~20? I figured it would have been in the 30 range, though I know that many factors can account for the numbers such as engine temp and such.
I have my PI cams + parts for install sitting here, and will be picking up the PI intake once I find a killer deal on one
I have my PI cams + parts for install sitting here, and will be picking up the PI intake once I find a killer deal on one
Skidzz
Tinkerbell
You'll notice a good gain and the car should pull all the way to the redline. The best thing about it is that your compression won't be too high for FI. If I could do it over again, I wouldn't have done the PI heads, I would have just ported my stock NPI heads and done the comp cams and PI intake. If I had done that, I would probably have a blower sitting here in my floor waiting to be installed by now...
I'm curious to as why you "only" picked up ~20? I figured it would have been in the 30 range, though I know that many factors can account for the numbers such as engine temp and such.
I have my PI cams + parts for install sitting here, and will be picking up the PI intake once I find a killer deal on one
Don't get lost in the peak numbers. The gains are across the RPM range so it makes a big difference even if the total gain isn't much. My combo netted about 30HP after tune with Comp 262's but I gained 5-7 tenths and 6MPH at the track.
I disagree...redline is a bit much. My peak is at 5200. Alot better than the 4500 before the swap though.
Dusstbuster
I love meat more than anything! I just have a spec
You will not be disappointed with the swap. I don't have it tuned yet, and never had it dyno'd pre-swap so I won't be able to compare gains but I do plan on getting it dyno-tuned this spring. I'll post up numbers when thats done, but without seeing them I will still say it is a VERY worthwhile and necessary mod on a NPI car. I looked at the manifold swap as insurance against against a pretty much guaranteed coolant leak with the old 100% plastic manifold, and the cams were just a little more in-depthness added to the swap that were well worth it.
LI98GTStang
Founding Member
Hey Matty, ya went cheap. Now you need a supercharger.
Yeah, would be great, but I'm still under a budget with kids in school and such. I also did the work myself and at the time and didn't think I was ready yet to attempt a whole headswap. Back then, there weren't any used PI heads out there like there is today for purchase, so the heads were big bucks.
I plan on staying N/A - my dream setup with be stage 2 cams, PI heads and a nice tune.
LI98GTStang
Founding Member
I'm curious to as why you "only" picked up ~20? I figured it would have been in the 30 range, though I know that many factors can account for the numbers such as engine temp and such.
I have my PI cams + parts for install sitting here, and will be picking up the PI intake once I find a killer deal on one
Those are actual dyno numbers using the same dyno several months apart and seem in line with what I've seen. Remember, I don't have a tune or even a T/A to bump the timing - still on 87 octane. Alot of full PI headswaps are given (shorty or long) headers, ported and/or a tune when you see numbers posted, keep that in mind. PI heads on an NPI longblock bumps compression, which add power as well. The 20rwhp numbers I posted is just PI cams and PI intake only.
Well worth the swap for me as my SOTP meter registered a nice gain. FWIW, you can do the PI cam and Intake seperately. I didn't remove the intake when I installed the cams and vice-versa on the PI intake. No need to wait on the PI intake, so get installin' and enjoy it sooner!
Thanks for clearing that up for me guys 
I'll be doing the intake swap myself since I have already replaced the all-plastic one with a NPI aluminum crossover. That was an easy install without any problems so I doubt the PI intake will lead to any. The intake that I am looking at is already tapped though will this work?
I am trapping at the 93-94 range currently with most of my runs in the 14.7 range. With just the intake, I would love to see a 95 trap since the car seems to fall on its face currently and there isn't much I can do about it being that its an automatic. I would love to see 13s with the cams+intake.
I'll be doing the intake swap myself since I have already replaced the all-plastic one with a NPI aluminum crossover. That was an easy install without any problems so I doubt the PI intake will lead to any. The intake that I am looking at is already tapped though will this work?
I am trapping at the 93-94 range currently with most of my runs in the 14.7 range. With just the intake, I would love to see a 95 trap since the car seems to fall on its face currently and there isn't much I can do about it being that its an automatic. I would love to see 13s with the cams+intake.
Attachments
The intake will work...
As far as your times you are along the lines of what I had. I pretty much have a record of gains for each mod at the track even though I didn't get dyno numbers before and after.
Gears:
1/4 mile---------------------1/8 mile---------------60'
[email protected]@73.66---------2.091
[email protected]@73.70---------2.039
[email protected]@73.83---------2.054
PI Intake:
1/4 mile---------------------1/8 mile----------------60'
[email protected]@75.57-----------2.11
[email protected]@75.34----------2.144
[email protected]@75.49---------2.108
[email protected]@75.46---------2.044
Cams and tune:
1/4 mile--------------------1/8 mile----------------60'
[email protected]@77.73----------2.035
[email protected]@79.94----------2.018
[email protected]@78.58----------2.022
[email protected]@78.67---------2.111
ET Streets:
1/4 mile----------------------1/8 mile----------------60'
[email protected]@78.56-----------1.935
[email protected]@80.74----------1.875
[email protected]@77.98---------1.952
[email protected]@78.06-----------1.948
I can only hope to get the 13s I feel that a programmer would help quite a bit on my car since I can't control all the shifts. The car doesn't make power to redline, however it insists on nearly going to redline even if I shift to "drive". Lovely auto 
I feel that a programmer would help quite a bit on my car since I can't control all the shifts. The car doesn't make power to redline, however it insists on nearly going to redline even if I shift to "drive". Lovely auto 
I can't say for sure but you may run into a problem getting too close to a water jacket. Seems like that was mentioned one time or another.
I'm glad you were able to do it yourself. You really need a garage, tools and a spare car on Long Island to pull it off.
I hear ya. I never planned on going S/C with this car. I now have 98K on it. I'd LOVE to have the stage II's if for no other reason than to hear that lopey idle. I'm not 100% sure the stage I's would give me the sound I'd like.
Do you have to swap the springs with a Stage II? I wonder if a swap with the engine this old (in good shape though) would be harmful? Maybe I'll just save to eventually get some other, newer S/C Mustang.
How many miles are on your Stang?
you have some nice times..is this a 5 speed?...im guessing it is by the 60 times...anyway..my best time all npi is a 14.59 at 96 with a horrible 2.25 60..this was with real crappy tires..but all my traps were 95 and ranges from that fastest time to 14.7 or so...my car seems to be almost the same as yours..maybe a little faster with the l/t since i seem to average like 1.5 mph trap..so hopefully with the cam/intake/tune I can it 13s..ive got new tires too!
N8Dogg98 said:
Yes the NPI heads can be port matched to the PI intake. Whoever does this will need to weld some aluminum to the coolant ports to get them to match the PI intake gaskets perfectly or you can use RTV on the coolant ports. It is not an easy task to do the welding method. My NPI heads are done this way and the only way you can tell that they are NPI heads is by their casting number, otherwise they look like PI heads.
justinschmidt1 said:
Comp Cams would be the better way to go. I would recommend that if you don't go with the PI cams that you degree your aftermarket cams in when you install them.
LI98GTStang
Founding Member
I've got about 31k miles on the stang now. I've kept my old '90 Civic Si for Ronkonkoma train station duty, so that's helped to keep the mileage low. The Civic has 176k though.
For Stage IIs definately a spring change is in order and would sound great in our stangs. Don't think it would be harmful at all whatever mileage is on the engine. I'd just worry about emissions here in NY, but don't know about where you are now.
True dat about the garage. It took me about 10 hours to complete the PI camswap start to finish. I know, I'm slow, but got it right. Also just recently removed the spring isolators in my garage on the stang during our last cold snap <20 deg. Tough to do that job unless you have a flat surface (garage floor) and space heater in the garage.
My buddy picked up an 01 S/C Rousch S3 over the summer- very cool and amazingly very streetable to drive around in every day and has an extra 100+rwhp instantly on tap when you want to get on it. Still there is something about a nasty N/A stang that is appealing to me.
PI cams you can find cheap. The Comps will cost you unless you find a good used deal like I did.
Keep in mind if you have a shop do the install the dollar per horsepower value declines greatly. You'd be better off finding a supercharger since the labor for a cam swap is so high. For the money the PI cam will be better than spending another 400 on Comps and having them installed. Overall you would be looking at over a grand for about 30HP with the Comps as opposed to $500-600 for the PI cam swap that will net 20-25HP.
