some info on the hard hot start

ADRENLN

ADRENLN

Active Member
Apr 16, 2003
2,342
3
49
NJ
#1
well i havent found the cause. sorry. just some info to contribute.

this has been going on for a long time and to my knowledge no oen knows what causes this. ford has no clue. ok here we go.

first the description: the cars start really softly, like they dont want to start. they just keep cranking and then flutter softly to life. usually happens when the car is shut off for gas or a quick run in the stor and started right back up. this is how we narrowed it to a hot start issue.

heres some info to take in to consideration. last year i got a light weight battery to replace the stocker. once i put the battery in the hot start issue dissapeared. i had the hot start issue for 4 years before that. wasnt sure i got rid of it but i didnt have the hot start problem for a year. it was gone. strange thing was it seemed to reverse itself. i was getting a cold start problem only first thing in the morning. then the other starts were fine the rest of the day. i made a post a while ago stating the reverse and no one had any ideas.

so my light battery didnt make it through winter so i tossed it. got another stocker. put a remanufactured motorcraft battery in. guess what cold start problem fixed, hot start is back. i cant believe it.

what the heck is it, i cant understand? i will not give up, ive been searching for answers for 4 years.:nonono: i was hoping the tune would get things sorted out. what the hell did the battery swithch have to do with it?

not really looking for answers more of an update so the people that have this have some more knowledge to work with ...if you have an idea though post up!
 
#2
My hot starts are nasty with the cams and LTs. And it gets H-O-T here in CFL. I sometimes have to give 1/2 throttle to get it to fire after stopping for gas in the heat of the day.
 
#3
Im pretty sure I know what causes it....or atleast a main thing....IAT sensor heat soak and too much timing pulled at startup.:nice:
Since I relocated my IAT sensor, it has done it anymore.....well last week it had a fluke epesode lol, but ill forget that :D. But before that it has started up PERFECT since the IAT for MONTHS AND MONTHS . So, there may be randon starting issues, plus the plugs I had in there last week were 20K old, and the car was missing....so that my have has something to do with it. No issues either since the $60 NGK plugs.

NOTE: Before the IAT relocation, darn near every restart at the gas station would fail the first time :nonono: .
 
#5
Could you provide some more detail on the IAT relocation? I was thinking that the engine would just flood after a shut-down, which would cause a quick restart to be really rough... I find if it's having trouble after a brief shut-down, flooring the gas usually wakes it up (like it would with a flooded carb...) I would like to try the relocation mod and see if it helps.
 
#6
If the IAT were the problem, I would think I would have it more than others since my IAT sensor is located under my blower and IC. Heat soak is extremely high after it shut off because the blower is so hot and the coolant is not longer moving. I don't have the hot start issue though. I have an occasional cold start issue that I equate back to fuel pressure bleeding off.
 
#7
I dont know why this works for me but it does and i rarely have had the hot start issue once i started doing this: I turn the key to the on position, wait for about 3-4 dings of the chime and then start it. It seems to work for me 99.9% of the time, and before doing it this way, i had a bad problem of the hot starts.
 
#8
spederman said:
I dont know why this works for me but it does and i rarely have had the hot start issue once i started doing this: I turn the key to the on position, wait for about 3-4 dings of the chime and then start it. It seems to work for me 99.9% of the time, and before doing it this way, i had a bad problem of the hot starts.
Click to expand...

If that corrects your problem, then that would point towards it being fuel pressure/vapor lock.
 
#10
its not the iac. i changed mine and so have others with this issue and no cigar. it is a good thought though obviously we thought it was that also.

the turning the key thing only works for very few i am not one of they. i always try that...it never works.

dont the iat have to be relocated for a blower? i just want to know for when i get one. damn i hope the blower dont make this problem worse.

also what do you guys think about the batteries being switched has to do with it. this is not an assumption, it is def. the case for sure. it went from doing one thing to the exact other every single time with out fail until switched.

that would make me think it has nothing to do with any of the parts mentioned, but somthing we are not hitting on.:shrug:
 
#11
I had a similar problem with hot starts and 2 things fixed it! First off...I changed the plugs and battery and it worked for about 3 months.......so I then put on the Plasma Booster and regapped my plugs to .50 and has been running sweet ever since.....I believe the timeing and fuel pressure bleed off after the car sits is the culprit by with a hotter spark and a slightly tighter gap burned it hotter and fired up quicker....the car now has 71,000 miles and about 2000 plus runs down the strip and never ever runs hot! I put on the Meizure elec water pump and a 180 deg thermostat and the car stays about 20deg cooler! "ED"
 
#12
well that is good news that it is fixed for you. however this is my second stocker type battery and its doing the same thing. not sure how plugs could contribute. i think next time i will try an optima battery and see what happens. probably will wind up doing this before this battery is dead just out of curiosity.
 
#13
You have a 2002 GT and your on your third battery ? That's rediculous. If anything I'd say you may have a hi-resistance short or open somewhere in your wiring harness, maybe towards your fuel pump. I say the fuel pump because your saying a new battery cured the condition until the battery died, which leads me to believe the extra voltage was jumping the hi-resistance trouble spot. No battery should die as fast as yours are unless it was the wrong battery to begin with, which also supports the idea of an electrical problem somewhere.
For what it's worth I have the poor start condition cold or hot if I don't give the car time to pressurize the injectors. Fuel injected cars require a 2 second pause before starting, they used to hang a mirror hanger on new cars stating exactly that, I guess they figure everyone knows that these days :shrug:
 
#14
good thought. only one of the three batteries died on me though. the first stock was fine (had the hot start problem) . i changed it by choice to a 15 lbs battery for weight loss. that battery did die it was just too small(had the cold start prob. NO hot start prob) when that died i got another stocker threw it in, its fine (but hot start is back, cold start problem is gone again):shrug:
 
#15
spederman said:
I dont know why this works for me but it does and i rarely have had the hot start issue once i started doing this: I turn the key to the on position, wait for about 3-4 dings of the chime and then start it. It seems to work for me 99.9% of the time, and before doing it this way, i had a bad problem of the hot starts.
Click to expand...


this works for me too
 
#16
My car does it sometimes when it's hot or cold and sometimes it fires up normally. I have basically accepted it. What is interesting is; if you spray some carb cleaner or starter fluid into the TB it will start right up, no problem (every time hot or cold). It is almost like the fuel pump doesn't want to pump until 3 seconds of the engine trying to run. It has to be air/fuel related ... hope someone figures it out because that lub lub lub lub lub vrrooooommm gets annoying.
 
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