SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!! MISS PROBLEM!

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You can do all Mustangs up to and including 95 with this technique.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

Hissin50's recommendation for a cylinder balance test while the engine is acting up is right on target. That way you can tell if it is a bad cylinder(s) or a system wide problem that affects all the cylinders like a fuel pump or ignition switch.

Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure

If you scan the system for codes and get 211, 212, 213 or 214 or, any combination of them, wiring to ECM and TFI check out ok; then the stator should be the culprit. Does the problem in this thread have any similarities? The need for a codes scan is there, it will narrow down the possibilities.

Don't want to scan it?.....try it out with a borrowed dizzy. stprorolla49, I know how frustrating trying to solve a problem can be.....BTDT, but getting the right information is key to avoid replacing good parts. GL

stprorolla49 said:

also, do i have to have a CEL on to have any bad codes?

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No - codes can be stored in the KAM w/o illuminating the CEL.

Good luck.

stprorolla49 said:

that was great info man...actually before looking at this post, i had the dizzy apart, and there was a pile of metal dust lying in there....would this be a sign of a bad stator?? i think im gonna run to autozone and grab a new one but do you think this could be a sign? also, do i have to have a CEL on to have any bad codes?

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If the dust is "rust like", the shaft might have excess lateral play (FUBAR'ed shaft bearings) that is causing the vanes rotor to contact the stator. The stator should have suffered damage by now but, a dizzy replacement would be required.

The only way to check its lateral play would be to remove the dizzy and check it out of the engine. If lateral play is a problem,......don't bother buying a new stator sensor.....get a remfg dizzy from Autozone, Pep Boys or Advance Auto, a new stator sensor comes w/it and,.....it's a less expensive alternative. LUK/GL

PS: Forgot to ask, do you see the tach needle jumping, doesn't matter how small it does it, when the miss occur?...if yes is the answer......get the dizzy.

stprorolla49 said:

****IN IGNITION WIRES!!!!

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This was the problem?

Glad to hear it was something simple and relatively cheap.

stprorolla49 said:

yes sir....the terminals inside the wires at the plug ends were shot...

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,glad you got to the bottom of this headache troubleshooting experience.

Now you can go out and get drunk again to celebrate your victory,(inside joke )after this frustrating experience.

J/k man,I know some car problems can be a real pita to diagnose,especially when they are intermittent and electrical in nature.

BTW, do I get a cookie or something for suggesting plug wires? J/K

HISSIN50 said:

BTW, do I get a cookie or something for suggesting plug wires? J/K

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just for you,

HAHA nice that cookie looks good, I found on my old wires that the plug boots were always loose so i crimped the ends where it click on the top of the plug and it made such a difference, it ran so much smoother after that, it must have been sparking on the inside so much. The next day i bought new wires anyway lol

Dude, that aint funny. I'm starving. Thanks Charles.

HISSIN50 said:

Dude, that aint funny. I'm starving. Thanks Charles.

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no prob.

OK, This is a plug wire problem. You spent $1000 bucks on parts instead of taking to a professional. This reminds me aof a "shotgun mechanic". They fire a shot load of parts at a problem hopeing one will fix it. Like I said in my very first post minutes ago, I am an ASE master. Your first clue....and mine, wasthat you never mentioned a check engine light. This means it isa secondary problem...meaning after the computer comtrols. You mentioned everything in the book except plug wires.

This will make you feeel like a dumb ass, but I am not trying to. Wait until dust/dark. Get the engine hot and missing. Drive into the dark place and pop the hood. Get a windex bottle with water, and spray it on the wires, and watch the light show. A quick fix is once you findthe break/breaks in the wire/wires, to wrap in electrical tape until you can replace the WIRE. A new set of wires...depending on the car these days can cost a fortune (try a Ford Probe GT, then breath a sigh of relief you have a Mustang). Replacing only the effected wires will save a small fortune.

I watched your video. That is a plug wire, that is why you have no engine light. Run that way lng enough and the light will come on! Good Luck, and enjoy the light show!