sort of confusing MAF question

[greenstang1313]

I bought a 73MM C+L MAF designed for 24# injectors. Turns out the 94-95 cobras need an aftermarket MAF that is for 19# injectors, even though they have 24# injectors.
My question is: when I get my car tuned, can i have the tuner tune the computer so i can use my C+L MAF for 24# injectors?

-Craig

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

It'd probably be easier to just pick up the sample tube for 19lb injectors and call it a day. You could have them tune around the 24lb sample tube no problem though.

 

[HISSIN50]

I'm not the one to ask or listen to, but were I going for a tune anyhow, I think I'd go with something like a LMAF. It just seems like that might be a more reliable means of getting a solid tune.

Just something to consider.

Good luck.

 

[final5-0]

C&L uses a mechanical method of changing things where PMAS (ProM) does it electronically.

Some tuning methods like SCT, Tweecer, etc can manipulate the values in the pcm and change the voltage to airflow rates or more commonly known as the maf transfer curve.

Other tuning methods like PMS deal with the maf differently.

You just need to find a Pro Tuner who is familiar with your 94-95 Stang and follow his guidance as it is gonna be based upon his method of tuning.

He should be able to tell you what sample tube to use for the C&L as with the C&L method, the electronics and meter housing are the same, no matter if you use 19's 24's, etc. You just change the tube thingy.

Grady

 

[greenstang1313]

where do I get a new sample tube?

and final5-0, the tune will be done by 'supposedly' the best tuner in new england and he puts in an SCT chip and dyno-tunes it.

 

[thegreentaco]

I would also like to know where to get a sample tube from. Went to the local mustang shop and they got it for $40! So just wonderin where to find it cheaper

 

[blksn955.o]

I know they are in the 5.0resto catalog so I guess they would also be online.

FWIW-with our cars there are better mafs than the C&L. They seem to work well on the fox eec but on our cars they are the worst IMHO. You will get better results in the long run with WOT and drivability plus the tuner will like you much more if you have a diff. meter.

The reason is the transfer is something of a PITA to get and nail down. For a dyno tuner it will be hard for him to get it close and both you and the tuner will more than likely be looking at more dyno time/work to get you happy.

My sug. is leave the stocker if you dont need it (its only 3mm diff.), if you have the stock heads/ported stock or even stock gt40 heads I would just rock the stocker.

OR if you have H/C/I

look at a pro-m (or whatever now), at the very least due to the fact they have a known transfer you get with it.

My choice personaly would be a factory ford meter of some kind or a SCT meter if you NEED that much flow. Best electronics and a REALLY REALLY close if not perfect transfer that is easy to get (if any tuner cannot get a factory meters transfer RUN).

just my .02

 

[final5-0]

Here are a couple of observations that are general in nature but I have seen them over and over through the years on these Stang sites.

Lots of peeps go with C&L
Why
Cause they are less than PMAS (ProM)

I certainly do understand about saving $$$

If you investigate before you buy an aftermarket maf

You'll have no prob discovering this critical fact

An aftermarket maf works differently with our cars compared to the fox cars due to how the pcm processes the output from the maf.

Our cars pcm is based upon load factors which the maf determines

Fox cars don't use that method
They use rpm
When they go to an aftermarket maf
They usually don't have as many issues as we can

Now at this point in our discussion ..................

Lets talk about the decision of tune ... or ... no tune

If you tune with a method that can deal with the maf transfer curve

You can make any maf work, most of the time. As Greg pointed out above, some are more easier than others to dial in such as ProM or different oem maf that can deal with more airflow.

If you try to get by without a tune

You kinda take your chances
because
no two combos are exactly the same
The same aftermarket maf on two similar combos can cause different issues.

Here is where the no tune choice is at a disadvantage simply due to having less options to deal with drivability issues such as this one we have talked about here.

The above reasons and more are why you see peeps advise those who have a mild combo to keep the stock maf until airflow/fuel needs are more than the oem maf can deal with.

Summing up here

Moving to an aftermarket maf caled for 19's is very close to a total waste of money, time, and effort. If a gain is found, its gonna be very small, most of the time.

You will need more fuel on a growing combo way before you need a larger maf due to that growing combo pegging the oem stocker maf.

Grady

 

[greenstang1313]

thanks for the help Grady, i appreciate it

 

[final5-0]

I was kinda pressed for time when I put up that stuff and forgot to add this info to this part of the above post

The above reasons and more are why you see peeps advise those who have a mild combo to keep the stock maf until airflow/fuel needs are more than the oem maf can deal with.

You also stand a better than 50 50 chance of dealing with drivability issues when you move to an aftermarket maf so that is another BIG reason to use the stock maf until you NEED to move up.

Grady