Spark by no start just sputtering

[BlackPearl955.0]

I just rebuilt the engine and went to start it and NOTHING. The starter turns, pullys turn, all harness wires connected I think , vaccum lines are good, distributor was not 180 degrees backwards, but still not running. The car has combustion because some smoke comes out after the sputtering stops. However there are puffs of smoke inside the engine bay . Is it possible that it was not a top dead center when I started it? I had it a 10 degrees on the damper and the distributor was at 1 so I dont get what is wrong.
Thanks

 

[HISSIN50]

Are you real sure about not being 180* out? It has that feel to it.

I'd go back through the TDC procedure if you have any doubts. Remember that you can't just move plug wires around because the PIP will throw a fit.

Good luck.

 

[BlackPearl955.0]

How would I go about checking the distributor. I know it is set for the first cylinder but how exactly do I make sure it is not 180* out? I am pretty sure it is not but a walkthrough would help clarify.
Thanks

 

[porchstang]

Take out the number 1 plug and put your finger in it. Now rotate the engine over untill it pushes your finger out. When the number 1 cylinder pushes your finger out then you are at tdc. You rotor on your distrubtor should be on the number one plug wire now. If it is not on the number 1 plug wire then you are off.

 

[BlackPearl955.0]

Yea I didnt remove the plug but I just figured 10* on the damper would be a tdc. I also cant communicate with my computer (no I am not shouting 1000111001 at the car) so I cant even run codes to see what is going on. Is it possible that somthing was just forgotten? I did remove my whole dash to get to the heater core, would an unpluged wire be causeing all this mess?
well I guess I will try to go with tdc again.
thanks

 

[HISSIN50]

Definitely recheck/restab the dizzy.

Why can you not communicate with the computer? If there's an issue with pulling codes or something along those lines, there could be an underlying issue which is causing your current problems.

 

[BlackPearl955.0]

Yea it just will not pull the codes. I think that it could be the computer not hooked up right so I am going to take the kickpanel off to take a look.

 

[94mustangcobra]

that happened to me when i rebuilt my motor and tried firing it, i kept thinking it was distro but it was a vacuum line i had mistaken for an emissions line. i think it runs towards the gas tank has some sensor on the vacuum line too. it's located on the passenger side rear where the eec testing connector is.

 

[final5-0]

Look at it this way

It is all hosed up and won't run at this time ........... Correct

If you suspect its 180 out

All you gotta do is twist the rotor 180 and see if it fires
I mean ... it takes all of about 3 minutes to try it :Word:

If it don't fire right off
do the steps necessary to put the dizzy in time ... again

Grady

 

[PUNISHER RACING]

you should bring #1 to tdc first and check your dampner that should read 0 not 10 if your pointer is on the 0 on dampner then remove cap and make sure you are pointing at the #1 cylinder on the cap in not correct that problem first. car should atleast fire in that condition then once you get the car to run it can spit all the codes it wants.

 

[divit250r]

Yea it just will not pull the codes. I think that it could be the computer not hooked up right so I am going to take the kickpanel off to take a look.

Are you trying to pull codes using the OBDII connector under the dash? The connectors we need are behind the passenger side strut tower.

The no start thing sounds exactly like the guys are describing with the 180* out deal, it happened to me just like that. Grady's right, it's only a few minutes to test it, and if it wasn't that, just reset it again to be sure. This kind of thing can get really frustrating, but you'll get it eventually. Take it from those of us who've dealt with it too.

Scott

 

[BlackPearl955.0]

Yea I am using the codes that are pulled from the passenger side strut tower. I think It may be that when my #1 piston it at tdc one of the valves are open. How do I know if both valves are closed? I could just take the valve cover off and check the rockers but if there is an easier way it would be good.

 

[go-stang5.0]

Usually if the dizzy is 180 deg. off you will hear no signs of combustion at all. If its sputtering and trying to run and/or back firing your prolly. I would LOOSEN the dist. hold down until you can turn the dizzy by hand. Turn it one way a bit (10-20 deg. of rotation) hold it with your hand and have some one crank. If nothing or its worse, turn it the other way...I bet your around there but the timing is severly retarded or advanced. I delt with this yesterday so its fresh in my mind.
BTW...I set the balancer at 0 TDC and had the rotor pointing at the #1 plug before I tried firing it and had a similar problem to yours. After fiddling with the dizzy I got it running....turns out the timing was like 30-40 deg. retarded from stock timing. My HB has numbers from 20 deg ATDC to 20 deg. BTDC and I tried to check the timing while my friend cranked it and there were no numbers in sight so I knew I was off by a lot.