Speedcal Install on Automatic

I was searching the posts but couldn't find a post on how to install the Speedcal on an automatic. The problem that I am having is how to get around the shifter to feed the wires down to the tranny. I unscrewed four bolts that hold the shifter down, but it looks like I would pinch the wires if I pushed them through and tightened the screws back down. Any thoughts?

Anyone?

Thanks Wytstang. That article talks about the manual shifter. The automatic shifter seems to have a tight seal all the way around it and it's secured by 4 bolts. There doesn't seem to be a path from the inside of the car to the tranny below without cutting metal.

I saw a post somewhere that talks about installation on an automatic, but I can't seem to find it again.

Thanks for the info. I posted the question to DM but haven't heard anything yet.

I did find the post that I was looking for on the corral. The response was:

"The hardest part of the installation is feeding the wires/connector through the floor! I routed my SpeedCal wiring through the front of the hole."

I'm not sure what that means.

I just bought some small grommets at Autozone and I think I'll drill a small hole, add the grommet, feed the wires, then fill the hole with RTV. That seems to be the cleanest way that will prevent the wires from being crushed or chaffed.

Thanks again for the help.

I got the SpeedCal installed last night. I ended up drilling a 3/8 inch hole as far forward as I could on the drivers side of the shifter. The 3/8 hole was a perfect size since the plastic protective sleeving over the wires just barely fit through, and it was tight enough to keep the wires from moving around below. If you drill the hole too far aft, it may interfere with the linkage. Not that I drilled one there by accident. I have a picture, but can't figure out how to post it. The only problem that I had was that I needed to remove the connector from the grey and white wires to get it through the hole. For that I needed to pull out the red lock, release the wires and pull. The only other thing that I did differently was to tap into the switch 12V wire (purple and pink?) that goes to the convertable control. That way, there is not power to it all the time. The wire is there for the coupes as well, it's just not used.

Anyway, after I got it installed and set the switches, I took it for a test drive. Using highway markers, I measured 14.7 miles for a 15 mile run. After readjusting the switches for a 2% correction, the readings were right on. There was less than a tenth of a mile difference after 18 miles. That's less than a half a percent error according to the odometer and the mile markers and that's close enough for me.

I need to get back in there for the primer since I just now saw your last post WYTSTANG.

Thanks for your help and Happy New Year.