spining the vortech faster with alum.
- Thread starter stanggt00
- Start date
goshia
New Member
BennyBlown2v
New Member
Reduce friction?? LMAO
You mean rotating mass, right?4.10's might be a bit much if you're going to be racing the 1/4 mile, you'll end up running outa 4th gear towards the end. For the street, 4.10's would be fine...or you could always run a 27 or 28" tall tire in the back at the strip.
is there any side effects to using a alum flywheel and driveshaft over nomal steel
i know om y ford probe my rpms would drop fast in between shifts if i shifted to slow
and yes i have ran out of gear on the track with 4.10's
my goal here is to get the vortech to the sweet spot faster 4.5-6k+
dam if there was just some way to get the motor to rev to 7k then i would be set
i know om y ford probe my rpms would drop fast in between shifts if i shifted to slow
and yes i have ran out of gear on the track with 4.10's
my goal here is to get the vortech to the sweet spot faster 4.5-6k+
dam if there was just some way to get the motor to rev to 7k then i would be set
SaleenGT2001
Well-Known Member
i will be swapping to 3.73's with my centri. IMO 4.10 is too much, but it will get you in your power band faster. 4.30 will get you there even quicker.
Reduce friction?? LMAO
4.10's might be a bit much if you're going to be racing the 1/4 mile, you'll end up running outa 4th gear towards the end. For the street, 4.10's would be fine...or you could always run a 27 or 28" tall tire in the back at the strip.
haha...your right..I swear I was thinking rotating mass...I dont know why I said friction....
04YELLOWGT
Active Member
Rickey_Bobby
New Member
1.7 KB poops out at upper RPM. (also, the vortech v-2 w/ a 3.33" pulley makes more power at all RPM's than a 1.7KB when both would be making 10psi at redline...)
Don't waste $$ on an aluminum FW
Driveshaft is a good investment
4.10 gears are WAY too much for a blower car if your making good power.
3.73's rock, I actually had to go down to 3.55's due to traction issues...
Why do you need to modify your car to get into the "sweet spot"
The centuri blower really kicks ass after 4K rpm... and if your racing, every shift will land you above 4K rpm.... And first gear you will be gradually slipping the clutch at about 4.5K rpm.... so what the heck?
There is no problem getting the centuri in the sweet spot if you can drive...
Stop trying to race from a 10 mph roll in 3rd...
valve springs, steel retainers (not titanium), stainless valves, mechanical lifters and your good to 7K rpm man.
springs, valves, and retainers are needed for strength issues... mechanical lifters open the valves 20% faster, and also control their movement better. They add about 20HP too from the increased airflow. All of these parts are fairly cheap and simple to install, and since you keep your stock cams, no special tools, cam degreeing, or retune will be needed.
Don't waste $$ on an aluminum FW
Driveshaft is a good investment
4.10 gears are WAY too much for a blower car if your making good power.
3.73's rock, I actually had to go down to 3.55's due to traction issues...
Why do you need to modify your car to get into the "sweet spot"
The centuri blower really kicks ass after 4K rpm... and if your racing, every shift will land you above 4K rpm.... And first gear you will be gradually slipping the clutch at about 4.5K rpm.... so what the heck?
There is no problem getting the centuri in the sweet spot if you can drive...
Stop trying to race from a 10 mph roll in 3rd...
valve springs, steel retainers (not titanium), stainless valves, mechanical lifters and your good to 7K rpm man.
springs, valves, and retainers are needed for strength issues... mechanical lifters open the valves 20% faster, and also control their movement better. They add about 20HP too from the increased airflow. All of these parts are fairly cheap and simple to install, and since you keep your stock cams, no special tools, cam degreeing, or retune will be needed.
Rickey_Bobby
New Member
stangman
15 Year Member
i have 4.10's in my centri car & wouldn't change it at all. i just run 28"s for when i go to the track, no biggie
stangman
15 Year Member
4.10's are a love it/hate it type thing for blower cars. Most peeps go with 3.73's b/c of the rpm issue at the track. Alum. d/s would help out and is a must with aftermarket gears anyways. Alum. flywheel I'd save my money on, and gears is a personal preference. Centri blowers as a whole perform better as the rpms raise, but they've also gotten a bad rap for being useless at lower rpms which isn't the case. Granted you aren't making full boost at 2.5-3k, but boost is being made and you won't be hanging around in that rpm range for very long. Oh and unless you do something about the heads in terms of flow (beyond valvetrain) and the shortblock internals (won't handle very many 7k blasts especially under boost), it is pointless to take the 2v much past 6000-6200rpms. They don't flow well enough to make power at the elevated rpms....
hotmustang331
Active Member
WOW ALMOST all that is totally wrong.
man where do I start the correction process? I will only mention the flat out wrong things in your post
"1.7 KB poops out at upper RPM"
Ok first off the KB 1.7 will make power all the way to redline on a GT unless your going for over 500RWHP...and then the only reason it wont is because your getting out of its designed effeciency range.
"vortech v-2 w/ a 3.33" pulley makes more power at all RPM's than a 1.7KB when both would be making 10psi at redline."
X1000 Flatout WRONG. The vortech wouldnt pass the KB in power until PAST 5500RPMs all things being equal as possable (IE both cars BONE stock besides the SC kits). KB is making 10PSI from 2000RPM to 6000RPM. Vortech starts making 1 PSI at around 3500 and works its way up. How can the vortech make more power at "ALL" RPMs???? Aluminum flywheels work fine...I have one and love it. Less rotational mass and less overall weight. But each style flywheel is suited to specific needs of the owner and what his opinion and setup are. There is no right and wrong when it comes to that. Again there is no "this on sucks and that one doesnt".
Your car would darn near die @ 10MPH in 3rd.
"valve springs, steel retainers (not titanium), stainless valves, mechanical lifters and your good to 7K rpm man." What? Thats bull....do you realize how fast a STOCK (He didnt say it was forged) bottom end will grenade itself if your supercharged AND spinning to to 7K???? You would be totally on edge. He needs a built/upgraded bottom end to handle that sort of RPM on top of teh things you mentioned.
Man your normally pretty spot on with your answers...what the heck is wrong with you? Did someone jack your account? I dont want to argue, but I cant just let false info be spread
.
Rickey_Bobby
New Member
WOW ALMOST all that is totally wrong.
man where do I start the correction process? I will only mention the flat out wrong things in your post
"1.7 KB poops out at upper RPM"
Ok first off the KB 1.7 will make power all the way to redline on a GT unless your going for over 500RWHP...and then the only reason it wont is because your getting out of its designed effeciency range.
"vortech v-2 w/ a 3.33" pulley makes more power at all RPM's than a 1.7KB when both would be making 10psi at redline."
Aluminum flywheels work fine...I have one and love it. Less rotational mass and less overall weight. But each style flywheel is suited to specific needs of the owner and what his opinion and setup are. There is no right and wrong when it comes to that. Again there is no "this on sucks and that one doesnt".
Your car would darn near die @ 10MPH in 3rd.
"valve springs, steel retainers (not titanium), stainless valves, mechanical lifters and your good to 7K rpm man." What? Thats bull....do you realize how fast a STOCK (He didnt say it was forged) bottom end will grenade itself if your supercharged AND spinning to to 7K???? You would be totally on edge. He needs a built/upgraded bottom end to handle that sort of RPM on top of teh things you mentioned.
Man your normally pretty spot on with your answers...what the heck is wrong with you? Did someone jack your account? I dont want to argue, but I cant just let false info be spread
I am at 4.5psi at 2,800rpm on the vortech.
Aluminum flywheels work yes, but many chatter badly, and they are just plain not needed. The money would be best spent anywhere else... The guy asking the question seemed to have a limited budget so I suggested against a mod that would do little to nothing for him at all.
10mph in 3rd was an exagerated joke as to trying to race from a low starting RPM in to high of a gear... Duh.
My 100,000mile stock block would see 7K shifts to 130mph about every other day. Thats no bs, no fudging, it really happened. It WILL wear out sooner obviously, but if maintained well, tuned correctly (just a fuzz lean at 7K will pop her), and shifted smoothly it will work fine. I have proof sitting on my engine stand.
as for gears, it is all what you like... but after about 400rwhp, you spin through 3rd without drag radials, the 3.73's or 3.55's allow you to use what little part of 1st you can, then ride out 2nd and 3rd. It also will allow you to get to about 130mph before hitting OD.
Again, I'm just suggesting ***** by what I have personally done. I DO NOT give advice on what I THINK will work.
These motors are a lot stronger than most people give them credit for.
thxs for the input guys
i admit that 4.10's are a little steep for the blower and i am thinking of dropping down to 3.90 just to get a little more gear out of the car i hate the 4.10's on the highway but i love them in the city
i also asked about the alum flywheel and driveshaft to see if any one noticed a difference when using them with a centi-type blower
and i do like the vortech because i can drive the car around town at like 1-2psi or step on it and get into boost fast
just my opinion i dont think that the stock motor is build to do over 6.5k rpms so i would never go there but once i get the shortblock and heads my goal is 7k i just think that 5.5-7k is the home of the centi-blowers
i would never race a twin screw at a ligth but i would if we are rolling
i am not a total dumbazz when it comes to some of this stuff but i just like to get people opinion on stuff or exp.
i admit that 4.10's are a little steep for the blower and i am thinking of dropping down to 3.90 just to get a little more gear out of the car i hate the 4.10's on the highway but i love them in the city
i also asked about the alum flywheel and driveshaft to see if any one noticed a difference when using them with a centi-type blower
and i do like the vortech because i can drive the car around town at like 1-2psi or step on it and get into boost fast
just my opinion i dont think that the stock motor is build to do over 6.5k rpms so i would never go there but once i get the shortblock and heads my goal is 7k i just think that 5.5-7k is the home of the centi-blowers
i would never race a twin screw at a ligth but i would if we are rolling
i am not a total dumbazz when it comes to some of this stuff but i just like to get people opinion on stuff or exp.
Rickey_Bobby
New Member
No worries man.
I just really don't want to see you drop cash on an aluminum FW when it wont help your boost issue.
one other thing that has been overlooked....
What pulley are you running? If you still have the stock 3.60" pulley I'm sure you are HATING your car. I don't know why vortech even bothered making it...
get down to a 3.33" (3.25" is a little much, and tends to slip) The 3.33" will put you at 10psi at redline, and since the SC is spinning faster at all RPM's, boost will come on MUCH sooner.
The pulley is $70 shipped from vortech I believe. And will make 1,000x more of a difference than any other mod you could do.
Do the pulley, then gears... so you have some idea of what gear you may need. Over 3.73 tend to be usless in 1st and 2nd unless you run DR's everywhere...
-Steve
I just really don't want to see you drop cash on an aluminum FW when it wont help your boost issue.
one other thing that has been overlooked....
What pulley are you running? If you still have the stock 3.60" pulley I'm sure you are HATING your car. I don't know why vortech even bothered making it...
get down to a 3.33" (3.25" is a little much, and tends to slip) The 3.33" will put you at 10psi at redline, and since the SC is spinning faster at all RPM's, boost will come on MUCH sooner.
The pulley is $70 shipped from vortech I believe. And will make 1,000x more of a difference than any other mod you could do.
Do the pulley, then gears... so you have some idea of what gear you may need. Over 3.73 tend to be usless in 1st and 2nd unless you run DR's everywhere...
-Steve
well there are a few things still exagerated on this thread, however the issue i want to pull up is the 4.10 vs 3.73 - it depends on where you want to be fast - yes it can slow you a little in the 1/4 bc of the shift - but that doesnt me the car isnt faster - bc it is. Also with a built motor you can tach 7500 so think about future mods in your gear descision also
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