umm the 4.10s should get it into the powerband faster cause you will get to higher rpms faster..and with alum driveshaft and flywheel it should help reduce friction so I would say yes to all 3.
Reduce friction?? LMAOYou mean rotating mass, right?
4.10's might be a bit much if you're going to be racing the 1/4 mile, you'll end up running outa 4th gear towards the end. For the street, 4.10's would be fine...or you could always run a 27 or 28" tall tire in the back at the strip.
yes those mods will get a you dramatically faster into to boost, and no the 4.10 is perfect for the centri blower.
1.7 KB poops out at upper RPM. (also, the vortech v-2 w/ a 3.33" pulley makes more power at all RPM's than a 1.7KB when both would be making 10psi at redline...)
Don't waste $$ on an aluminum FW
Driveshaft is a good investment
4.10 gears are WAY too much for a blower car if your making good power.
3.73's rock, I actually had to go down to 3.55's due to traction issues...
Why do you need to modify your car to get into the "sweet spot"
The centuri blower really kicks ass after 4K rpm... and if your racing, every shift will land you above 4K rpm.... And first gear you will be gradually slipping the clutch at about 4.5K rpm.... so what the heck?
There is no problem getting the centuri in the sweet spot if you can drive...
Stop trying to race from a 10 mph roll in 3rd...
valve springs, steel retainers (not titanium), stainless valves, mechanical lifters and your good to 7K rpm man.
springs, valves, and retainers are needed for strength issues... mechanical lifters open the valves 20% faster, and also control their movement better. They add about 20HP too from the increased airflow. All of these parts are fairly cheap and simple to install, and since you keep your stock cams, no special tools, cam degreeing, or retune will be needed.
WOW ALMOST all that is totally wrong.
man where do I start the correction process? I will only mention the flat out wrong things in your post
"1.7 KB poops out at upper RPM"
Ok first off the KB 1.7 will make power all the way to redline on a GT unless your going for over 500RWHP...and then the only reason it wont is because your getting out of its designed effeciency range.
"vortech v-2 w/ a 3.33" pulley makes more power at all RPM's than a 1.7KB when both would be making 10psi at redline."X1000 Flatout WRONG. The vortech wouldnt pass the KB in power until PAST 5500RPMs all things being equal as possable (IE both cars BONE stock besides the SC kits). KB is making 10PSI from 2000RPM to 6000RPM. Vortech starts making 1 PSI at around 3500 and works its way up. How can the vortech make more power at "ALL" RPMs????
Aluminum flywheels work fine...I have one and love it. Less rotational mass and less overall weight. But each style flywheel is suited to specific needs of the owner and what his opinion and setup are. There is no right and wrong when it comes to that. Again there is no "this on sucks and that one doesnt".
Your car would darn near die @ 10MPH in 3rd.
"valve springs, steel retainers (not titanium), stainless valves, mechanical lifters and your good to 7K rpm man." What? Thats bull....do you realize how fast a STOCK (He didnt say it was forged) bottom end will grenade itself if your supercharged AND spinning to to 7K???? You would be totally on edge. He needs a built/upgraded bottom end to handle that sort of RPM on top of teh things you mentioned.
Man your normally pretty spot on with your answers...what the heck is wrong with you? Did someone jack your account? I dont want to argue, but I cant just let false info be spread.
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