Spun a rod bearing. Replace or Rebuild?

So I spun a rod bearing on my 02 GT (100k miles) and the mechanic is recommending a full engine replacement. I can get a new factory 4.6L long block with warranty from the dealer for $2900 + shipping tax and labor for around $4500-$5000 total.

Is there any way I could get more out my existing engine for around the same price (give or take a thousand or two)

Some options I'd like to consider. Your opinions and/or past experiences are welcome and appreciated.

1. Dump $5k into the dealership with a new engine and warranty.
2. Buy a used engine 60k miles and have it installed $3k total
3. Install a new crank / stroker kit (Cost unknown)
4. Other engine work. ie: Replace crank, keep other salvageable parts.
 
First, I would be wondering why it spun a rod bearing. Dirty oil? Low oil pressure? Extra stress from a power adder/detonation? You'll want to know something to prevent this from happening again.
Personally, I wouldn't spend 5k at the dealership for an engine with a warrenty. The warrenty won't be that long, and they can be picky about validating your warrenty. I'd also say that 3k installed for a used engine is a bit rediculous. I'd pursue that path, but look for a better price.
 
It all depends on your plans for your car. If a blower is in your future then I would rebuild it with all forged internals. If it is destined to have nothing other then some lowering springs and rims and maybe an exhaust I would go with the whole new engine with the warrenty. I have never had a problem with the dealership fixing my stuff under warenty. That way you have a brand new motor that should be good for the next hundred thousand miles. If you go the used motor route you never know how it has been serviced and it may just blow up in a year.
 
You could buy a brand new forged short block with a warentee for around the $2,900 price tag, and re-use your heads.

I wouldn't spend that on a new factory motor.


Easy fix would probably find the extent of the damage to the crank.

If it's minor, the crank can be fixed, proper sized bearing can be ordered, and that's it. That is assuming the connecting rod isn't damaged, and there is no scoring on the cylinder wall.

If it is really messed up, then you may not be able to salvage the crank, and you make have scored the cylinder wall for that particular cylinder.
 
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Spinning a bearing shouldn't have hurt the heads, but I would go ahead and buy the MMR short block and rebuild your heads with new seals/tensioners/cams etc... and have a performance shop do a tune for you. For probably between $4k and $5k you could have a built shortblock, warrantied and tuned the right way for the same price as a dealer installed longblock..
 
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Spinning a bearing shouldn't have hurt the heads, but I would go ahead and buy the MMR short block and rebuild your heads with new seals/tensioners/cams etc... and have a performance shop do a tune for you. For probably between $4k and $5k you could have a built shortblock, warrantied and tuned the right way for the same price as a dealer installed longblock..

trick flow heads and a MMR800 block would be SICK! especially with a blower!:nice:
 
To those recommending a short block: keep in mind that this person is paying to have the work done instead of doing the work themselves. The cost to move everything from the current short block to the new one, and install it would be outrageous, and the chance of a mistake happening are huge. Look at the signature and notice the car is bone stock... I would be he doesn't have any aspirations of doing anything to the car, except drive it again.