Squeezing out every pony

84Ttop · Mar 22, 2013

Don't get me wrong, Accufab is nice stuff and that's what I have on mine for now. I am just curious as where that accufab or nothing comes from. I have used all sorts of throttle bodies and have never had any real trouble. I will say that when my budget allows I will most likely be changing my accufab to a wilsons. I have personally seen in some of the high boost applications the accufab throttle blades bend and subsequently stick open (usually while pedaling the throttle, but still). I'm hoping not to have that problem but will be addressing it hopefully before it does become an issue.

mikestang63 · Mar 22, 2013

LEEDAY Boss said:
If you really like the stock look then you should get with Tom Moss and have a stock intake manifold ported for you. Then get your self a set of Powerheads ported E-7's. If you do this you for sure should get a custom cam because you will have accurate flow data and could really dial the entire combination in. You would have about $300 in the intake, $800 in the heads and $300 in the cam. The car would probably perform better than someone who just threw expensive parts at their car. With a good AOD, 3.73's and a 100 shot, car would be sweet, and sneaky fast.

Sorry, I disagree on the heads. You can get a set of used TW, AFR or even Ebrock heads for around the same price point that will run circles out of E7's and take about 40lbs off the front end. If he wants the budget route, go with the GT40 heads off the explorer, buy the TFS springs, have the heads cleaned up at a machine shop and he may have $400 into them and they will flow much better than the E7's. I agree if he wants the stock look, have Tom port an explorer lower and match it to the ports on the heads. Then call Ed at FTI and have him grind a cam. I always built my motors around the heads so that is the most important part.

LEEDAY Boss · Mar 22, 2013

I base my opinions off of my experience and what the original poster was taliking about/requesting. You are all correct in your thoughts about the heads, intake, trans and so on. However, he said he has an AOD convertible and likes the STOCK look. Not aluminum, not GT-40, he said STOCK. What I recommended was what was best based on his combo. Sure you can do all that other for all that more money but that's not what we're talking about. And if you think you can get into a set of heads for $800 (new ) on the car with no issues that can flow to the north side of 240 cfm better than Powerheads your smokin something. Doesn't even matter. The ported intake is only going to flow 225 or so so if that's what he wants the Powerheads are a perfect bolt on and go item. No, buy this dudes busted stuff from here, corral or e-bay; take them to the machine shop, drop another $300 and have a bitchen set of used aluminum heads that flow ten more cfm that they will never even see because of my intake. Seriously? Its not a get all I can get for as little as possible race car. Its an AOD vert that he wants to be quick.
Accufab? They are the best that's all. Try the other stuff fix the issues, listen to it sing, try it again, give up and go get the Accufab. The $75 you saved you will spend twice dicking with the other. K?

84Ttop · Mar 22, 2013

LEEDAY Boss

Just to be crystal clear on all of the facts and flow numbers ect.

Powerheads flow data http://powerheads.com/images/FLOW-TEST-289-302.gif
at a cost of 895$ for a pair with exchange of your old e7's

TFS 170cc Aluminum head flow data http://static.trickflow.com/global/images/chartsguides/t/tfs airflow twisted wedge 170 sbf.pdf
at a cost of 1,099.96$ for the pair

The cost difference as you can see is only 204.96$

The difference in flow @ .500 lift is 42 cfm greater with the trick flow head vs. powerheads

K?

LEEDAY Boss · Mar 22, 2013

I get that. Don't forget the rocker arms, and the push rods; that pushes the cost of the head install past my total upgrade budget. Also, I've never driven a flow bench; however, for a na car, the best combos start with the proper funnel effect. I mean, the 225 cfm from the ported intake into the 215/220 cfm of the Powerheads with the proper cam or even the stock cam will "feel" great and make a nice driving AOD vert. Or,.... go with the Trick Flow, which I really like for a car like mine, but not so much if I wanted the "stock look". But, the extra 25/30 cfm of capability that I never use sounds good when we BS at the cruise in.......

mikestang63 · Mar 22, 2013

I've seen brand new TW heads for sale anywhere from 750-900 on CL in the box. IMO, if you are going to spend $800 for a set of cast iron e7's just to look stock, stock out of the box gt40;s flow about 195cfm/140cfm. You can get them all day long out of the JY for less than $100. Send them to a machine shop for $100 or so to get cleaned up and checked. another $125 for upgraded springs and you have a decent set of heads for less than $400, 1/2 the cost of the cast iron ported e 7's. Combine that with a good cam and like you said, are you going to notice the 20 cfm less for $400 more money. You could use that for the cam, throttle body, etc. Then he can always save up for a good set of alum heads when he is ready to step up in performance.

I have a 90 vert and did just that, took the top end off a 96 explorer- intake, heads, and did the spring upgrade, added a 70mm TB, 95 gt MAF, FMS shorty headers, H pipe, BBK CAI, everything but the springs I bought used and am very happy with the results. Removed the smog pump and hoses and will be adding U/D pulleys and a Taurus fan I just bought used. Then 3.73's , a silver fox valve body, and B&M Hammer also bought used. It's not the fastest but so far it is a vast improvement over the bone stock car I bought 6 months ago. When I feel the urge for the next level, I'll throw an S trim on it and swap out the heads, intake, injectors and MAF, and go with a TFI cam from Ed. No sense buying two custom cams and the stocker is fine for now.

ReefBlueHatch · Mar 22, 2013

Here's my Explorer top end - doesn't look too far from stock, IMO.

LEEDAY Boss · Mar 22, 2013

mikestang63 said:
I've seen brand new TW heads for sale anywhere from 750-900 on CL in the box. IMO, if you are going to spend $800 for a set of cast iron e7's just to look stock, stock out of the box gt40;s flow about 195cfm/140cfm. You can get them all day long out of the JY for less than $100. Send them to a machine shop for $100 or so to get cleaned up and checked. another $125 for upgraded springs and you have a decent set of heads for less than $400, 1/2 the cost of the cast iron ported e 7's. Combine that with a good cam and like you said, are you going to notice the 20 cfm less for $400 more money. You could use that for the cam, throttle body, etc. Then he can always save up for a good set of alum heads when he is ready to step up in performance.

I have a 90 vert and did just that, took the top end off a 96 explorer- intake, heads, and did the spring upgrade, added a 70mm TB, 95 gt MAF, FMS shorty headers, H pipe, BBK CAI, everything but the springs I bought used and am very happy with the results. Removed the smog pump and hoses and will be adding U/D pulleys and a Taurus fan I just bought used. Then 3.73's , a silver fox valve body, and B&M Hammer also bought used. It's not the fastest but so far it is a vast improvement over the bone stock car I bought 6 months ago. When I feel the urge for the next level, I'll throw an S trim on it and swap out the heads, intake, injectors and MAF, and go with a TFI cam from Ed. No sense buying two custom cams and the stocker is fine for now.

Lots of guys in the 12's with similar set ups as yours.

88LX5.Oh · Mar 22, 2013

I guess I'm the only lucky guy on the internet because my BBK throttle body doesn't whistle

v8stang289 · Mar 24, 2013

Bossmanmustang91 said:
Iam having the tranny done next month and plan on up grading it with a better converter and shift kit.

If the trans is being rebuilt, upgrading it with a 4r70w gear set will be a performance improvement.

Bossmanmustang91 · Mar 24, 2013

Thanks again for all the info. I was also thing of getting a chip/power tune from American muscle. Any thoughts on how much of a performance gain ill see?

mikestang63 · Mar 24, 2013

Bossmanmustang91 said:
Thanks again for all the info. I was also thing of getting a chip/power tune from American muscle. Any thoughts on how much of a performance gain ill see?

IMO, find a local tuner and have them dyno tune your car. They can play with the fuel and timing curves, shift points, etc. in real time vs. someone thousands of miles away sending you a canned tune. Every car is different and reacts different to adjustments.

Robert Knutson · Apr 30, 2013

First off get rid of aod. ='s pos my car is in shop right now have a 92 it had aod nothing but problems doing 5 speed swap for less then 1900 I have all the same upgrades as you put two aods in the car had since oct 2012 and its my weekend car. Second off do not get tuner from American muscle I sent it back doesn't do anything but make your car run like crap if you get to a 1/4 tank of fuel trust me I was trying to do short cuts there are none your going to be wasting more money doing it twice when you have to do it the right way

88LX5.Oh · May 1, 2013

The only problem with AOD's is that they've been used and abused for over 20 years. Have one rebuilt with high energy clutches, new torque converter, and a decent little shift kit and they'll satisfy the needs of most any weekend warriors. Trust me. I've driven MANY AOD vehicles, whether it be cars or trucks.

Robert Knutson · May 1, 2013

I bought one that was supposed to hold up 500hp and it lasted about 150 miles who knows what's wrong with it didnt want to waste anymore money trying to figure out what was wrong with it

cleanLX · May 3, 2013

If I were in your shoes I would do the transmission just like you plan on doing.
I would get a Tom Moss ported lower intake manifold and leave the upper alone.
I would run the stock throttle body.
I would put a 255plh fuel pump in it.
I would put a 180* thermostat in it.
I would ditch the clutch fan in favor of an electric fan.
Then, I would drive and enjoy it.
FWIW, mine had long tubes and a 5spd with the mods listed above, and the mods you currently have, and went 12.9... oh, I had a stock lower intake, the Tom Moss lower would have made more power but I never ran the car like that.
One last thing, I did run the Tom Moss lower on ported E7's and made 292hp/325tq at the wheels. Tom's lowers work.

Squeezing out every pony

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?

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