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Stalls, Have to Sit with Battery Disconnected, Then Starts/Runs Fine

  • Thread starter Thread starter DannyB1122
  • Start date Start date Mar 12, 2024
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DannyB1122

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  • Mar 12, 2024
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So I've been having an intermittent issue for the better part of the last 2 years on my 87 GT, and I've been stuck scratching my head. Periodically, the car will stall and will not re-start unless I disconnect the negative battery terminal and let the car sit for a few minutes. When it stalls and I try to re-start it, the engine turns over but doesn't fire up. If I try to re-start it too quickly, it seems to vapor lock, resulting in my having to have it sit for longer. It doesn't happen all the time, but it's just enough to be a pain in my ass, as it happens at the most inconvenient of times, and almost never in my driveway or garage. I've replaced the fuel filter, thinking that was the culprit. I've replaced the fuel pump, thinking that was the culprit. Neither have solved the problem. About 7 or 8 months before this issue came about, I replaced the ignition module by the distributor with a supposed genuine Motorcraft part (I say "supposed" because I've heard that it's basically Chinesium with a Motorcraft logo on it). Could that be the cause?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#2
  • Mar 12, 2024
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Yes.......
 
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DannyB1122

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I’ll try that. I’ve also heard that it could be the ECM or the starter solenoid fusible links. Not sure it’s the ECM in this case since I have an extra and it’s done this with each one installed.
 

Noobz347

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Has there been any work done to the valvetrain?

Have you pulled codes, just to check?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Let me expand, now you're gonna waste money randomly changing parts and not knowing if it's fixed until you're 'awe sht' alongside the road again.
I mean you could get lucky but then
Here's what I'd do: carry a spark plug tester, 12 volt test light or DVOM and a can of starting fluid, when it dies, give it a shot of the 'flamethrower in a can', if it starts up then dies=fuel related, no start= electronic thing, now you have a direction to go in.
I will admit given the symptoms you describe I'd just throw some 'happy cash' at a new distributor.
There ain't no app for that but there is a tech thread:

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995 A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work...
www.stangnet.com
 
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DannyB1122

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  • Mar 13, 2024
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Noobz347 said:
Has there been any work done to the valvetrain?

Have you pulled codes, just to check?
Click to expand...
No work to the valve train, everything is stock. Only code I get is 33, which is the EGR valve.
 
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DannyB1122

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#7
  • Mar 13, 2024
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General karthief said:
Let me expand, now you're gonna waste money randomly changing parts and not knowing if it's fixed until you're 'awe sht' alongside the road again.
I mean you could get lucky but then
Here's what I'd do: carry a spark plug tester, 12 volt test light or DVOM and a can of starting fluid, when it dies, give it a shot of the 'flamethrower in a can', if it starts up then dies=fuel related, no start= electronic thing, now you have a direction to go in.
I will admit given the symptoms you describe I'd just throw some 'happy cash' at a new distributor.
There ain't no app for that but there is a tech thread:

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995 A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work...
www.stangnet.com
Click to expand...
When it happened last night, after having it sit for a bit I tried to start it, it kicked over and then died. Then I let it sit some more and after a while it started. What makes this even more complicated is that it’s totally random. It doesn’t do it every time I drive the car. It doesn’t even do it every other time or every third time. It’s almost like it’s possessed lol
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#8
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ECU could be bad but you need to go through the check list that the General linked before you do anything else.

Ford Mustang 5.0 A9L A9P C3W A3M X3Z ECU Repair Service

Ford Mustang 5.0 A9L A9P C3W A3M X3Z ECUEngine Computer Repair ServicePlease fill out the R&R form here once you've placed your order.A Trusted Product with LIFETIME WARRANTY QUICK TURN AROUND TIMEDomestic and International Shipping available! Our Team is Available Monday - Friday 9am to 5pm...
www.theecuexchange.com
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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I mean I could tell you to replace this dohicky or that one but what do you do when it randomly stops again? It could be a loose connector or a frayed wire, think of it this way, it's a glob of electricity dancing around under the hood, it carries information, the flow is being interrupted, jumbled, like a computer screen jumping, you have to find the interruption, go through the checklist I linked and you'll find it, intermittent interruptions are hell to find, usually easily fixed.
 

Noobz347

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#10
  • Mar 13, 2024
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I think you're down to:

PiP
TFI
EEC
Possible fuel pump (with no lean codes, I find this unlikely)
 
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91GTstroked

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#11
  • Mar 24, 2024
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I personally would pull the ECU out and take the cover off if it and look at the capacitors. They have also caused problems with the function of the fuel pump.

I mean that ECU if original isn't far from 40 years old!

If you want it checked out and fixed it needed contact ECU Exchange.
 
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DannyB1122

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  • Mar 30, 2024
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I replaced the TFI earlier today, and the fuel pump is new as of last summer, so if it does it again, I think I’m going to put in a new EEC relay followed by a new distributor.
 
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86302mgb

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  • May 20, 2024
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Wondering what you ended up doing to solve this problem as I am currently having the exact same issue, and disconnecting the battery and letting it sit for 10 minutes gets it going again. I'm about to start on the checklist that was linked in this thread but figured I would ask as I am currently on a roadtrip so limited availability of parts.
 
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DannyB1122

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I changed the ignition control module on the distributor and it continued, so I changed the computer relay and the ignition switch (both in their respective pain in the ass locations), and haven’t noticed it; I figure that if it happens again, I’m just going to change the distributor.
 
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86302mgb

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  • May 20, 2024
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Thanks. Just wondering - when you had the issue was it fairly consistent in starting back up again after letting it sit? Just weighing options on if I keep trying to drive it home or if I try to get it into a shop in a town I pass to see if they would be able to get parts in if needed.
 
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DannyB1122

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As long as I let it sit for a few and didn’t constantly try to start it, it would fire up like nothing ever happened.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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When a wire gets hot at a " break ' it will move further apart... I assume the same for a break in a coil or ECU so I can see an electrical problem developing when hot then not having a problem when cold?
I know when you unhook a battery in some cars it resets the computer, but I believe you need to leave it disconnected for a longer period of time... Have you tried to remove the battery negative for a longer period? Overnite used to work on a Chevy Lumina belonging to a " woman I used to know" .......
 
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86302mgb

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I disconnected for ten minutes, and then it fired up after that. I was wondering about things getting hot, but wasn't sure if ten mins was enough to cool and then go right back to driving fine after.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#19
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86302mgb said:
I disconnected for ten minutes, and then it fired up after that. I was wondering about things getting hot, but wasn't sure if ten mins was enough to cool and then go right back to driving fine after.
Click to expand...
The disconnect the battery is more for a computer reset, rather that an electric cool down....
 

Cheapskate207

The left one hangs a little lower
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limp said:
The disconnect the battery is more for a computer reset, rather that an electric cool down....
Click to expand...
Not always. I had an old Harley that the coil went bad in. It died and wouldn’t restart until it had cooled down.
 
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