Well here is the scoop I might trade the 94 for a 68 Fastback....I got it running and now someone I know might be willing to make this trade....You guys must know that this has been a dream car for me for many years.

Anyway its not for sure and the car need restoring but hey I think its worth the trade...Keep an open mind guys.
Need more details on the 68. I'm a newb to the SN95s, but been around the 67-68s since I turned 16 (1981).
First and foremost, what's the body like? If you can't find someone local that
knows these cars, and what to look at, then post up lots of really big pics. You can do AMAZING things with them, and make them outperform your current car, but if you've got structural problems, you're better off passing. I've been working on the 67 vert for 5 years (I don't get a lot of time in the garage, but when I do, it's kinda disheartening). I'm basically going to have a new car, which is cool, but it sucks that I've got so much time, energy, and $$ into structural work. I'm well over $10k just getting rid of the rust. A general rule, if you want a vintage car to build--buy a solid body. Don't sweat the driveline. That's easy. Bodywork sucks.
You mentioned going 427. Are you talking about a stroked 351, or are you talking BB? FWIW, I'd go 347 before I did a BB 427. Unless you're building a drag car, you're going to be disappointed with the handling of a BB car, unless you pop for the $5k coilover suspension (and I haven't driven one of those, so I'm only assuming that the handling gets better). On the standard suspension design, a BB is too nose heavy. And for the power you can build with a small block, if you're building a streetable car, you can get all you need without the weight penalty. If you need HUGE hp numbers, stroke a 351.
Don't assume you're getting a 9". Most likely NOT, unless it's already a BB car.
If you want more feedback, give more details. Apples to apples, heck yeah, get the FB!!!
