- Apr 9, 2003
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Start up new motor OIL???
- Thread starter Yobi1Kanobi
- Start date
Zero_chance
Founding Member
5w30 is what ford originally recommended for our vehicles though they put out now that you can run 5w20 on their latest job aids. Me, I guess Im old fashioned because I still run 5w30. I use Royal Purple though, get it really cheap at my second job.
Zero_chance
Founding Member
- Apr 9, 2003
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Car Nut
Founding Member
I've been using 10w30 for about 10 years now and no problems.
I believe the 5w is a better bet if you live in an area that has pretty cold winters. Otherwise, the 10w will probably suit you better in the South's warmer summers.
I believe the 5w is a better bet if you live in an area that has pretty cold winters. Otherwise, the 10w will probably suit you better in the South's warmer summers.
You definitely want to use the conventional oil for the first 500-1000 miles. The rings may not seat properly otherwise.
Both my Stangs seemed to be a bit more sluggish on 10w30 until they warmed up. But that was a SOTP feeling, I don't have any documentation to prove it.
Yobi1kenobi, if you're starting up a motor that was just built/rebuilt, most recommend standard 5w30 dino oil. You should use a drill (in reverse) to spin the oil pump shaft to get the bearings wet before you start the motor for the first time. Otherwise, you may get premature wear on the bearings.
You should change the oil around the first 100-200 miles, just to clean out any shavings or other gunk as the engine breaks in. Then at the usual 3000 mil intervals. Not sure when you could shift to synthetic, if you wanted to at all.
Yobi1kenobi, if you're starting up a motor that was just built/rebuilt, most recommend standard 5w30 dino oil. You should use a drill (in reverse) to spin the oil pump shaft to get the bearings wet before you start the motor for the first time. Otherwise, you may get premature wear on the bearings.
You should change the oil around the first 100-200 miles, just to clean out any shavings or other gunk as the engine breaks in. Then at the usual 3000 mil intervals. Not sure when you could shift to synthetic, if you wanted to at all.
- Apr 9, 2003
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definately want to go into sysnthetic I was thinking after the first 3k miles.
I plan to startup the motor run it about a half hour then change the oil. Go the first few hundred miles on the secnd change and the go the regular interval before changing to full sythetic.
I plan to startup the motor run it about a half hour then change the oil. Go the first few hundred miles on the secnd change and the go the regular interval before changing to full sythetic.
Works just as well. 
I used the cheapest oil for the first fill up, since it wasn't going to be in there for very long. Any oil will protect an engine for a few hundred miles.
I used the cheapest oil for the first fill up, since it wasn't going to be in there for very long. Any oil will protect an engine for a few hundred miles.
Use 10w30 or 10w40 (unless your clearences are set differently) regular oil. Change it the next day, then again a week later or so. Then wait about 500 miles or so and you can switch to synthetic. Cut open the first filter and look for shavings, should be clean.
DDSTANG94
New Member
DDSTANG94
New Member
juiced_94gt
Active Member
I break all my new rebuilds with straight 30w conventional oil for the rings to seat for about 500 miles, then 10w-30 for the next 1,000 and then 10w30 mobil 1 for the life of the car. Again it's just what I do.
No it is not a myth. In order to best achieve piston ring seating for a fresh startup you need an SAE 30 or Rottella T 30. Rotella T has a higher zinc level and is better suited for cam and engine break ins. Why do you think that warranties are voided if you use a synthetic for a new car. Even Harley was making a deal about this.
Vipersix
Founding Member
Ditto. The only practical reason not to use synthetic for the first few hundred miles is due to the cost. In most situations you will experience small shavings from various engine parts unless you run them all through a de-burring apparatus. If you have completely rebuilt an engine with new parts then I would recommend an oil change within 75 to 150 miles and then refill with whichever flavor you prefer (synthetic included). If you have money to burn, feel free to fill it up with synthetic from the get-go.
My engine has seen nothing but synthetic.
Vipersix
Founding Member
Aston Martin, Bentley, Corvette, Viper, Porsche, and many other vehicles come straight from the factory with synthetic. Zero miles. Myth busted.
Try telling a cam manufacturer why a cam was wiped out from improper installation when you used synthetic to break it in and see what they tell you when you ask for a new one. Anyone who uses TRUE synthetics to break in an engine is just plain stupid. When you get a new cam it says "CAUTION do not use synthetic oil when breaking in cam for first 20 minutes." you better take that advice. CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION. Newer engine tolerances from the factory are much tighter than they were a decade ago. While some new cars say they come with synthetics, these are not true synthetics oils. GROUP III oils are mineral oil based still and contain SOME synthetics. High end car engine are broke in at the factory before you even get them to the dealers. Jim Bobs machine shop down the road is not Aston Martin either. Cross hatching in those wall prevents glazing from occuring during new startup to wear your rings in. A TRUE synthetic can prevent this from occuring. Redline brands of oil, and Royal Purple who actually make TRUE synthetic oil will even tell you they recommend not to use their synthetics on a new break in. When the manufacturer of oil tells you, why would you even try?
http://www.redlineoil.com/tech_faq.asp
http://www.royalpurple.com/rp-faqs-wu.html
http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/548e.pdf
http://www.redlineoil.com/tech_faq.asp
http://www.royalpurple.com/rp-faqs-wu.html
http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/548e.pdf
Vipersix
Founding Member
Manufacturer recommendations are just that; recommendations. Castrol and Mobil 1 both recommend the use of synthetic in new engines with zero miles. CompCams sells an additive for cam break-in in performance engines which is synthetic compatible. The fact of the matter is that synthetics are really only useful in high performance engines. So as I said, unless the engine is professionally assembled I would not recommend synthetic. Then again, I wouldn't recommend synthetic for most people. Most people waste their money on synthetic while petroleum will suffice.
In sum, do your research! If YOU think you need synthetic, use it.
In sum, do your research! If YOU think you need synthetic, use it.
Perhaps the words CAUTION mean nothing to you. I did my research many moons ago. U.S. Versions of Mobil 1 and Castrol ARE NOT TRUE SYNTHETICS!! THEY CONTAIN GROUP III BASE COMPOUNDS! A PAO basestock is a true syththetic, and neither Mobil 1 or Castrol at Autozone is setup this way. European formulas have not changed though. They are ripping you off on a label, and can get by with it because they only have to tell you that some form of a synthetic oil is present, just not how much. That is why you see them in new cars, because they can be used to allow the break in through a mineral base oil, and still go under the cover of a synthetic. This was all brought up in a lawsuit years ago.
Recommendations are given for a reason. They cover the manufacturers ass, because stupid people think they know it all, and defy the package labels and call the tech up wanting to know why things went wrong. So do not be stupid, especially when a cam manufacturer and the oil manufacturer suggests it! Synthetics are NOT just for high performance engines, stop fumbling around! They are great for adding years of longevity to the life of an engine. The friction loss is not near as restrictive, sludge is eradicated, and the metal breakdown level between bearing surfaces is unbelievably better. BUT NOT FOR A BREAK IN! You go ahead and do what you want. If your trying to keep threads alive with people wanting to know why they wiped a cam out or had to re-hone their glazed cylinder walls at 5,000 miles and they said they read on here that sythetics are safe to use, you can claim the responsibilty.
Some people's kids, I tell ya.............
Vipersix
Founding Member
Ahhh... This is what I love about electronics, fuel, and oil theories. Everyone has their theories and hate to be wrong! If you'll notice, I ended my last post with "do your research!" Because, as you said, stupid people think they know it all. Apparently for you, Red Line, Royal Purple, and CraneCams know more than Castrol, Mobil, and CompCams. The key word through this all is recommendation! These are all recommendations.
True synthetic, false synthetic, half synthetic, purple synthetic... I don't care what term you use, any and all oil can be used for a break-in if the proper procedure and any necessary additives are used. The fact is, there is no documented proof either way, and it may well be an urban myth when all is said and done.
Personally, I believe that if an engine is of the capabilities to even NEED synthetic oils then it will have been professionally built and, therefore, will not need the mythic "break-in" period. Ask John Force and his crew how many miles they run conventional oil through their motors before switching to synthetic. Ask Tony Stewart and his crew the same question. Mario Andretti or Sebastien Loeb.
Honestly this discussion is pointless. Unless you're racing, there is no need for synthetic.
True synthetic, false synthetic, half synthetic, purple synthetic... I don't care what term you use, any and all oil can be used for a break-in if the proper procedure and any necessary additives are used. The fact is, there is no documented proof either way, and it may well be an urban myth when all is said and done.
Personally, I believe that if an engine is of the capabilities to even NEED synthetic oils then it will have been professionally built and, therefore, will not need the mythic "break-in" period. Ask John Force and his crew how many miles they run conventional oil through their motors before switching to synthetic. Ask Tony Stewart and his crew the same question. Mario Andretti or Sebastien Loeb.
Honestly this discussion is pointless. Unless you're racing, there is no need for synthetic.
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