Starter Issue / Low Volts

mrb302

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Jun 27, 1999
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North Carolina
I searched but could not find any similar threads...Here goes...

68' 289 that has been sitting with the engine / trans out for a while. Just got everything back together. I messed with it for a while to get the timing correct, I had it 180 when I put it back together. It is now correct. In the process, I was afraid the old battery was getting weak, so I picked up a new one toady. The engine turns over fine, but will not start.

I have verified several time that:

1. The timing is correct
2. It's getting fuel
3. All 8 wires are getting spark (it has new plugs also)

Looking through a tech manual I saw that the voltage on the starter connection should be 10.5 VDC or better when starting. I am getting 10.1 - 10.3. I check resistance on all the battery cables and the highest resistance I saw was 00.3 ohms, a.k.a. practically no resistance.

Also replaced the starter solenoid.

Any other suggestions?
 
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Barking up the wrong tree :(

10V while cranking is plenty. So long as the engine is cranking (and cranking at a regular speed) the voltage doesn't really matter.

Unless your engine is cranking over really slowly, then cranking isn't your problem.

Fuel - Spark - Compression they are key to a running engine. We can assume that compression is OK since this engine used to run.

That leaves fuel and spark. To test if it's a fuel problem, try pouring a couple TBL spoons of fuel down the carb(a second before cranking) and see what happens. If that doesn't seem to help, then start looking at spark. Make sure that you havn't flooded the plugs and that your spark is good and hot, and of course the timing must be correct.
 
Have you verified that your timing marks are correct? I used a piston stop to do that. Start out with 12 degrees timing it is a good place to start. A simple way to do it is to get the pointer at 12 degrees, then take the coil and #1 plug wires off the cap. Hook the leads of your voltmeter to the ends and then turn the distributor slowly until you hear a little spark, which means that it is firing at the number one cylinder. That will get your timing where it needs to be to start up. Now you said you have new plugs, I am assuming they are gapped properly, have you tried cranking the engine over and grounding a plug externally and seeing if it sparks. If not do that. From there you know that you have spark. Then take the carb give it 2-3 shots of gas from the accelerator pump that should be enough to wet the intake, try cranking see what happens, if it keeps seeming like its trying to start but won't start or starts for a second and dies, fuel is your problem, play with the throttle, give it gas while you crank when it starts to pick up see if it will run with your foot on the gas. That should give it enough air and gas to atleast start it, it won't run right but it should start. If that is the case you are either not getting enough gas which requires you to turn up your idle speed screws. If it is starting and running but dying when let go of the gas, that is a start, have someone give a shot from the accelerator pump, listen and see what happens to the idle, does it drop or go up. If it drops or kills the car it is rich, if the engine speed goes up then it is lean. Get to this point first then we will go from there. Make sure you have the spark and timing, make sure you have fuel, fill your bowls manually with gas if you have to through the top. That would be enough to get the pump working so that gas keeps feeding the carb.
 
Thanks for the replies so far.. Just to recap, I have already done these things:

Taken out number 1 plug, turned over engine to feel the compression in the hole (TDC compression stroke), verified piston is at top of the bore both visually and by feel with a screw driver, set rotor to #1 on the compression stroke.

Fuel is not a problem, i can see the accelarator pump fuel when I pump the throttle linkage, and i can smell fuel in the carb (Edelbrock 4 bbl). Carb screws should be set close enough as they were not moved since the carb was off.

Tested spark by placing a spare plug into a wire with the plug laying on an engine bolt. Good spark. I even got paranoid and tested all 8 wires. They all have good spark. The plugs are gapped as per the Haynes manual, although I don't recall what that was without looking it up.

Got paranoid again, thinking that I had flooded the plugs, so I pulled all 8 plugs out and burned the fuel off with a butane torch. While all 8 were out, I turned over the engine a few times to blow out the cylinders.

The engine was turning slow when trying to start it, so that is why I bought the new battery. I have been using my battery charger / starter to back it up during this process. Last night I lefft it on a 2amp trickle charge to make sure that it is still strong.

It don't sound likes it's trying to catch at all. It just turns and turns. Anything that I'm still missing?
 
How old is the fuel that you are using? If it too has sat for a few years it could be your issue! I had a lawn mower my neigbor tossed out cuz it wouldnt run. I drained the tank and put in good gas and it popped right off. Get a small sample, pour a little on the ground and try to light it. If it is bad it will not light, or go out very quickly.
 
:D

The smoldered spot on the back of my head is itching...

When I first tried to crank it we had the timing 180 out and while someone else was inside starting it, I had my head stuck under the hood. The backwards beltch and resulting fireball gave me a nice trim job on the back right side of my head, semi-near the existing bald spot. Having a bald spot = not cool, having burnt hair = not cool. Bald spot + burnt hair = shameful. :rlaugh:

Actual first words that came out of my mouth:

[spoken calmly] "Is my head still on fire?":shrug:

Good thinking, but I don't think that is it either. I'll try some fresh fuel in the carb to see if it tries to catch just to be sure.
 
Okay, I've been through all the wireing, fuel and fire checks, timing, etc again. Still can't find any problems.

Is it possible that the starter has just died? We were turning it with a low battery at first, and it does seem a little slow (both visually and the sound).

What (if anything) can I check to verify that it is too weak?