Starter Question

What flavor of starter? The starter itself might have a bendix issue.

Did you go with a mini? And did your car come with a mini originally (you don't list a year of stang that I can see)?

Just like HISSIN50 is suggesting and starter can be bad right out of the box, the bendix could be hung up. try tapping the starter and trying again. this may help,



An often overlooked cause of these kinds of problems is excessive resistance.Loose, corroded or damaged battery cables or ground straps can choke off the normal flow of current. Testing the battery is always a good idea but also the connection may read good because all you're measuring is continuity -- not the ability to handle a high amp current load. The connection may pass a small current, but when a heavy load is applied there may not be enough contact to pass the extra current.


you are going to have to perform a voltage drop test has another step before sinking money into a starter. A voltage drop test is the only effective way to find excessive resistance in high amp circuits and it not hard to do ( but you need a DVM)

1st thing even though the battery is new means nothing, check the state of teh battery. To get the starter spinning at normal speed the battery needs to be at 75% state fo charge (12.4 volts or higher idle) anything lower battery is no good for starting.

The test.. important make sure to disable the engine so it will not start just crank ie pull the fuel pump relay, etc) and only crank for short duration

set the DVM to the 20 volt scale and connect the + postive lead to the + postive side of the battery and the negative lead to the negative side, crank the motor and record the reading you see on the meter.

Next, connect your meter positive + lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter, and the meter negative lead to the starter housing. crank the motor and record the reading from the meter. Compare the two voltage readings. If both are the same, there are no excessive voltage drops on the positive feed side.If available voltage at the starter is not within one (1) volt of battery voltage, there is excessive voltage drop in the circuit.


next is testing for voltage drop on the + postive side of teh starter circuit..

Set DVM on 2 volt scale.Connect meter positive + lead to positive + battery post, and the meter negative lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter. While cranking the engine, record the voltage reading on the DVM.The maximum allowable voltage drop including the solenoid in the starter circuit should be 0.6 volts or less.If you find more than a 0.6 volt drop in the starter circuit, you can isolate the bad connection by using the following voltage drop tests.

Check the positive battery post and cable connection by measuring the voltage drop between the two while cranking the engine. Connect the meter positive lead to the battery post and the meter negative lead to the cable clamp. A good post/cable connection should have zero voltage drop.

Check the positive battery cable by measuring the voltage drop end to end while cranking the engine. Connect the meter positive lead to the clamp on the positive battery cable, and the meter negative lead to the end of the cable at the starter. Crank the engine and note the voltage reading. A good cable should have a voltage drop of 0.2 volts or less.
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To check the starter solenoid or relay connections, connect the meter positive lead to positive battery terminal on the solenoid or relay, and the meter negative lead to the starter motor terminal. Crank the engine and note the reading. A good connection should have a voltage drop of 0.2 volts or less.

Next, you need to check the negative side of the starter circuit....
To check the entire circuit, connect the meter positive lead to a clean spot on the starter motor case and the meter negative lead to the negative battery post. Crank the engine and note the reading. The voltage drop on the negative side should be 0.3 volts or less.

If the voltage drop is too high, set your DVM to the 2 volt scale and start checking each connection on the negative side to find the bad connection or cable. Use the DVM leads to check across each connection while cranking the engine as before.

Check the negative battery post/ground cable connection (should be zero voltage drop).

Check the negative ground cable from the battery to the engine (should be 0.2 volts or less).

Check between the negative battery post and starter housing (should be 0.3 volts or less).

Check between the engine block and starter housing (should be 0.10 volts or less).

made in mexico

bring the starter back where you bought it, the bendix isnt shimmed correctly. The starter gear will pop out but wont engage the flywheel teeth because the brilliant remanufacturers dont know how to shim and measure the right way, made in mexico.

PMGR mini's are a nice upgrade. I would strongly consider doing it if you have an early aero-model starter (no piggyback solenoid).

Mini's are nice . I have the PA-Performance one along with thier 3g alt. both are high quality parts and lifetime warranty, very easy install.

If the ring-gear looks good, are the number of teeth on the flywheel and on the starter compatible?

Manual or AOD. 157 teeth for the manual and the auto should be 164. I'm 99% sure that the starter will work on either flywheel because teh 86-93 manual and auto cars share the same starter. The starter should have a 9 tooth ring gear which will work with a 157 and I'm pretty darn sure works on the 164. What brand starter are you using and came out of the car the 1st time? I'm thinking something is up with shimming and causing the problem or maybe the aftermarket starters will only work on a 157 or 164 ( non mustang starters for a 143tooth, 157 and 164 all will look the same or real close). If needed you can paint one of the teeth on the flywheel, disable the motor so it will not start and have someone hand crank the motor so you can count them but I'm betting is starter related, might be time for factory or mini.

lxman said:

Thanks! I have a C4 transmission. The original starter worked juat fine until it wouldn't engage at all something got stuck somehow in the starter. Thanks again! I am goin to try to get another starter today!

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Your C4 would be a 157 tooth fly no doubt( the C4's tooth count also depended on the bell size with the C4, it could be a 148, 157 or 164 IIRC). I'm pretty sure a 157 was used in the early ones ( late 60's into the '70's compact and mid sized & the early fox) The small bell models had the small fly.