Starting H/C/I swap..

[69Rcode_Mach1]

BTW I read the number on the bottom of the block and it started D2**-*** meaning its probably a 72 block out of a truck or something since the stangs had clevelands put in them that year. Which also explains my crappy 175rwhp with without any mods. I was so pissed when i had it dynoed. Well time to fix it now eh?

 

[Max Power]

I too have a 69 with a 351 windsor, and your PS brackets look much different than mine. In 69, they used a bracket on the heads to enable them to use the same PS brackets as the 302 cars. It looks to me that they used the PS set-up off the 72 vehicle that the engine came out of.

I could be wrong, of course...

 

[69Rcode_Mach1]

Got any pics of this? Because i hate that huge bracket. I want to know where to get one correct one.

 

[Max Power]

Here ya go. Lighting aint great, but it will be cold and dark here until April:

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[69fb00GT]

You must get the rod's atleast checked, then resized if necessary...the machinist pressing the new rod bolts in should check them like it's as natural to him as breathing. Like nosa said....be sure to know what to torque the new caps/bolts too.

 

[D.Hearne]

Don't forget if you change rod bolts you need the big end of the rods resized. I wouldn't waste money on things like ARP water pump, intake, valve cover, etc. bolts. I'd only use ARP for the important ones.

You don't have to resize the rods. I did this very same thing on an el-cheapo 302 short block, ran it for nearly 2 years without problems. Even subjected them to daily 7500 rpm freeway blasts. But as long as he's taking the engine apart, he may as well have them resized.

 

[D.Hearne]

69Rcode------- Comp cams and many others make 7/16 stud 1.7 rockers. I'm running Comp's on my 331 stroker. They were around $250 for the set. Also, don't buy pushrods til you do the final assembly, with those heads and unknown rockers, chances are you may need custom pushrods to keep the geometry correct. Only way to know for sure is to wait til you've done the final assembly then check the geometry using the pushrods that came out of it, or buying a set of "checking" adjustable pushrods