Starting Problems

Peg8687 · Aug 2, 2005

The car sat in storage for 9 monthes, brought it out fired up like a champ. Then after that once it gets hot it doesnt like to start.

I replaced the batt, starter, and starter solinoid.

And trouble shot this much....batt reads 12.66V, Starter solinoid reads 12.66Vs ( Trunk Mounted Battery). Once you hit the key they both drop to around 7Vs. Batt posts and cables get warm. and

It'll turn over once then pause, turn over, pause, etc etc...and MAYBE fire.

let it sit for about 2 hrs and cool off and it'll turn over slow then start.

Let it set over night and fires right up in the AM....

before i go replacing my power wire from the trunk to the solinoid do you think this may be the problem, a bad spot in the wire?!

Peg8687 · Aug 2, 2005

Daggar · Aug 2, 2005

Doesn't sound to me like it's your wires. If they're heating up then you're getting plenty of current through them. What gauge wire did you use?

vikingpower · Aug 2, 2005

sounds to me like that hot wire to the starter is bad

Peg8687 · Aug 2, 2005

i replaced the wire from the batt to the solinoid and it seemed better at first, get in town. And BAM no go...here i go push starting again...

I ran a 2 Ga wire....

and there not heating up like warm, more like a very warm almost hot, and the batt makes kind of a whining noise

HISSIN50 · Aug 2, 2005

The cables still might not be up to the task (or there is a short in the starter, etc). They should NOT get hot IMHO.

If you have long jumper cables, you can hook them up when it wont start and run them in series to augment existing cables to see if the issue improves. If so, you have found the issue. Be careful and all that.

Good luck.

Peg8687 · Aug 2, 2005

this is getting to the point its frustrating...the only thing left to replace is the wire from the starter to the solinoid....

Everything else has been replaced. UGH i hate stupid simple **** like this

stang8urimport · Aug 2, 2005

Daggar said:
Doesn't sound to me like it's your wires. If they're heating up then you're getting plenty of current through them. What gauge wire did you use?

The worst tech I think I've seen here...

No wire is supposed to get warm or hot. If they are, they have way too much voltage drop and are probably corroded inside. Which wire is getting hot? If both, replace them both. That's your problem. Make sure you have VERY GOOD grounds from the battery, to the chassis... and have a good engine to chassis ground. Without these, you could run a 000 positive wire, and it will still get hot! You can't put too many grounds on a car!! Good luck, bro!

Nick

Peg8687 · Aug 2, 2005

PoopDawg said:
If they are, they have way too much voltage drop

Thats it, i drops from 12.66 to 7.ish when you turn the key...i'm lost i replaced the wire...i'll double check the ground tho
thanks

jrichker · Aug 2, 2005

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice.

The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars

Daggar · Aug 3, 2005

PoopDawg said:
The worst tech I think I've seen here...Nick

Really? You should go back and read some of your other posts then.

PoopDawg said:
Make sure you have VERY GOOD grounds from the battery, to the chassis... and have a good engine to chassis ground.
Without these, you could run a 000 positive wire, and it will still get hot!

This is crap. If the conenctions are not making good contact then what? You're saying that the current INCREASES through the wire? What do you think CAUSES a wire to heat? Running more current than the wire is able to handle.

If you're going to critique then use your head.

stang8urimport · Aug 3, 2005

Daggar said:
This is crap. If the conenctions are not making good contact then what? You're saying that the current INCREASES through the wire? What do you think CAUSES a wire to heat? Running more current than the wire is able to handle.

If you're going to critique then use your head.

Where in that post did I say that not making a good contact does anything? Or that current increases through a wire? Are you insane? Don't be mad you gave the worst tech advice in the history of Stangnet. Maybe this is why you stay away from Corral? You'd get torn up over there.

Next time you tell someone a wiring being HOT is a good thing, are you going to pay for their car catching fire and burning up? I doubt it. So until you know something, please drive thru.

Daggar · Aug 3, 2005

PoopDawg said:
Where in that post did I say that not making a good contact does anything? Or that current increases through a wire? Are you insane? Don't be mad you gave the worst tech advice in the history of Stangnet. Maybe this is why you stay away from Corral? You'd get torn up over there.

Next time you tell someone a wiring being HOT is a good thing, are you going to pay for their car catching fire and burning up? I doubt it. So until you know something, please drive thru.

You're an idiot. Where in my post do see where I said heating wire was good thing? What I said was that if the wires are heating then he's getting plenty (too much) current through them.

The original poster indicated that he thought he might have had a bad spot in the wire. If that were the case then the WHOLE wire would not be heating. Leave the troubleshooting to others. You're not up to it. Don't you ahve a tire to sell between bannings or something?

stang8urimport · Aug 3, 2005

You're such a cry baby. lol. You dislike me now because I made fun of you, and your family in a fair, fun gave a personal poking. Dood, cry about it. I would think an old fart would be more mature then you are, but I guess some just never grow up huh?

Daggar · Aug 3, 2005

PoopDawg said:
You're such a cry baby. lol. You dislike me now because I made fun of you, and your family in a fair, fun gave a personal poking. Dood, cry about it. I would think an old fart would be more mature then you are, but I guess some just never grow up huh?

LOL... let's go abck and review posts and see who the cryer is? LMAO

You kill me. Maybe once every thousand posts you actually have something to actually ADD to a conversation. Any other time you're busting someone's balls about things that don't concern you or bagging on something someone has said or done to try and make yourself feel like a big man. You're incapable of making "fun" of me. You're just not smart enough to make that happen. I turned you off because all you ever are is negative. It's the REAL reason you were banned in the first place. Even after my giving you heads up on your last great post prior to getting the axe, you chose to ignore it then tried to act suprised when they actually DID ban you and opted to try and play "the victim"! It had allot more to do with the culmination for your posts and not just the last act that did you in.

It's really quite a shame. You do know quite a bit about building a motor and have a lot to offer this forum or any other. Instead, you choose to be an ass to everyone whenever you can find an opening.

Try concentrating a bit on the technical aspect of what's going on instead of looking for and digging for openings to make dumb remarks. You're only making yourself look bad.

stang8urimport · Aug 3, 2005

I figured you'd come back with some long, drawn out responce. I'm not even gunna read it. lol. You've got too much time on your hands, old man. Go do something useful, like paint the underside of your hood.

Daggar · Aug 3, 2005

PoopDawg said:
I figured you'd come back with some long, drawn out responce. I'm not even gunna read it. lol. You've got too much time on your hands, old man. Go do something useful, like paint the underside of your hood.

You're right. I've tried talking sense to you before and it's a waste of time. I'm not sure why I bothered.

Thenemesis · Aug 3, 2005

Damn PoopDawg... You saw a thread named STARTING PROBLEMS and just KNEW that they were talking to you huh???

stang8urimport · Aug 4, 2005

I didn't start any problems. I just correctly stated that Daggar gave some really bad tech advice. That is all.

5.0nmalecek · Sep 17, 2005

WOW you guys . if cable is heating up then there is too much resistance somewhere in that circuit, and that is not a good thing. For instance, the negative battery cable will heat up and smoke if there is a bad ground and you try to crank the engine. I had this problem (except my battery is still under the hood), and it turned out to be bad grounds. I would guess that there is a bad connection somewhere or you need thicker gauge wire since your battery is way back in the trunk. The resistance over a wire increases when it gets longer.

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