Steeda Cowl Hood 2 tone paint

StangMom08

New Member
Dec 27, 2006
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St. Louis, MO
I have talked to a couple body shops about painting my new hood. My 06 Stang GT is "Screaming Yellow" and I want the hood black down the middle and yellow on the edges. The body shops say to "truely" match the new yellow on the hood, they will need to paint the top of my fenders as well for proper "blending", then re-clear both sides. I've seen several photos of yellow stangs with the same paint scheme and was wondering if this is a true statement. I really DO NOT want to have the fenders repainted/cleared.
 
I have the Cervini Ram Air hood painted to match my Screaming Yellow with 2 black stripes going down the middle. My body shop did not paint the fenders/ clearcoat them and the hood matches perfectly. It looks like it came from the factory. They obviously clearcoated the yellow first, then sanded down the area for the stripes, painted the stripes on, and cleared the stripes on the hood.

Sounds like to me that your body shop is trying to oozzle more money out of you...
 

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I think your painter just knows that Ford cuts corners in the paint area for cost savings. What he is worried about is the color of your car being a tad light, due to primer bleed through. Not something you see with the naked eye too much on lighter colored cars.

My black 07 shows bleed through bad, If I were to just have my aftermarket parts shot black and bolted on, the paint on the new pieces would look darker than the oem parts.

My painter is doing the opposite of yours, I gave him my GT scoop and my oem rear spoiler so he could tint the paint. I'll tell you this much, ford is really thinning out their paint. Night and day difference between a exact match black painted part done thoroughly and a oem ford part done on a assembly line.

Your painter just want to make sure your happy with the outcome. He's not trying to force you down a bigger cost. Although in the end it will cost you more. Just have him paint the hood like you asked, the above post shows the naked eye isn't seeing the difference on the yellow anyway.
 
I think your painter just knows that Ford cuts corners in the paint area for cost savings. What he is worried about is the color of your car being a tad light, due to primer bleed through. Not something you see with the naked eye too much on lighter colored cars.

My black 07 shows bleed through bad, If I were to just have my aftermarket parts shot black and bolted on, the paint on the new pieces would look darker than the oem parts.

My painter is doing the opposite of yours, I gave him my GT scoop and my oem rear spoiler so he could tint the paint. I'll tell you this much, ford is really thinning out their paint. Night and day difference between a exact match black painted part done thoroughly and a oem ford part done on a assembly line.

Your painter just want to make sure your happy with the outcome. He's not trying to force you down a bigger cost. Although in the end it will cost you more. Just have him paint the hood like you asked, the above post shows the naked eye isn't seeing the difference on the yellow anyway.

How do you "tint" the paint?
 
How do you "tint" the paint?

tinting is done by adding extra paint to the standard formula. you mix up the color, do a spray out to check color, then add the needed colors from the formula. every car is different, and you cannot just mix up the formula and expect it to match perfectly. you want to stay within the formula while tiniting, ie. if you need red, then you use the red in the formula. there are probably 50 different colors a shop can use to make your paint. you only use a few of them usually, and you dont want to add a shade of a color that is not already in the formula.

as far as blending the fenders, you can try to have them butt match the color, and blend later if not perfect. but it is better to do it all at once, as far as cost is concerned. blending the adjacent panels during a paint job is common, and they are not trying to rip you off, just trying to give you a satisfactory result.
 
I'm not sure HOW you tint paint. I figured with the paint code, you really would NOT HAVE TO tint it much. They said the colors are always off a little from the factory. We've had work done on previous cars from accidents and those shops made them look great.
 
you tint the color you are spraying, not the car. paint is mixed up in grams, and even one gram more or less of any color can change the outcome of the formula.
 
This last shop was referred to me by a co-worker that is very happy with the work they've performed for him. The owner walked us through it and we were impressed. Clean and organized. I am just really NOT wanting to have my factory "clear" messed with. I have an older car that had fender damage years ago and I had the mirrors painted red to match as well but the clear did not last long. The fender faded out and the mirrors flaked. I know they SAY THEY guaranty it for life but when you try to have it repaired, it's like pulling teeth. At least one learns which shops to stay away from and can tell their friends. I don't want to have to mess with it with my NEW mustang. Maybe most people don't keep their cars for long but we do.
 
find a shop that does work for mercedes, lexus, BMW, etc. the high end cars. these are usually the best shop to go to, as they have a higher standard of repair.
 
Blending is more common than not. Most of the time it won't even be mentioned to you, it's just done. 2007 OEM Ford Black has about 9 legitimate tint variations. The variations should not exist, but runs on black cars are not done all at the same time, or in the same place. You don't just run 50,000 black cars off to cover the worlds needs, you do runs of lets say 50 cars black, 50 red, 50 yellow so on and so forth. Then process starts over and guess what, George who mixed paint on the last run was replace by Mike this time. Yes machines are used to get the mixes within spec, but chances are they don't mix the exact same because both people do the job in their own way.

The product changes too, cost will drive the use of another product and your nuts if you think Ford isn't thinning things out to make the overall cost even cheaper on their part. You think when they thin it's exactly the same every time? Not a chance.

As mentioned, tinting is simply a change in the mix. Subtle but it's a change, body shops and custom painters have to tint to get within spec of oem. As big cat mentioned every car is slightly off. Chances are it will never be noticed, but when you swap out an entire panel, lets say a side skirt or front facia, the seams are right up against each other and sometimes they eye will catch it. This is all that Stanged4life's painter is worried about.

None of this is rocket science, shops these days are beyond capable. Some folks just think they getting one pulled over on them. If thats the case, just let em shoot the piece, clear it and bolt it on. See if you notice anything. If not, your all good. If you see a subtle difference, you'll likely be headed back for a blend or tinted reshoot.
 
find a shop that does work for mercedes, lexus, BMW, etc. the high end cars. these are usually the best shop to go to, as they have a higher standard of repair.

Exactly as bigcat says or you if you see a car you find to be phenominal in a group meet, car show or other, use them. Always good to see a quality product of the place you will use. I met my painter through a person owning a car I saw in a car show. Struck up a conversation and got the info. In 6 years I have had him handle all of my miscellaneous paint work and couldn't be happier to date with all of the jobs. He knows I'm picky, and I know he won't let me out the door without perfection.
 
Thanks to everyone for your input. I found it very usefull. I'm going to have the shop paint my CDC Classic Chin Spoiler and 3D Carbon Blackout Trunk Panel. If the yellow matches really well, I'll use them. The car sure is fun. Hard to keep your foot out of it......especially when the SLP Loudmouths. Don't know if I'll get the off road H pipe or not. As it is now, I start it up in the mornings with the garage door down, wait for the idle to come down a bit, then raise it. 5:00 a.m. is not a great time to be waking up the nieghbors if they don't wish to be. No one has complained yet. :) Thanks again.
 
Thanks to everyone for your input. I found it very usefull. I'm going to have the shop paint my CDC Classic Chin Spoiler and 3D Carbon Blackout Trunk Panel. If the yellow matches really well, I'll use them. The car sure is fun. Hard to keep your foot out of it......especially when the SLP Loudmouths. Don't know if I'll get the off road H pipe or not. As it is now, I start it up in the mornings with the garage door down, wait for the idle to come down a bit, then raise it. 5:00 a.m. is not a great time to be waking up the nieghbors if they don't wish to be. No one has complained yet. :) Thanks again.

Don't sweat the neighbor complaints, as it is now your car is emissions legal. I understand being courteous, and your method definately is more than I would expect. My neighbors get normal routine start up in the am without the door down to muffle it. I am courteous on my exit from the neighborhood though.

Now, mid afternoon nets the neighbors a burn off of first and second gear just to make sure everyone knows I'm hittin the street. :D