Steeda pullies
- Thread starter Lostcause
- Start date
02mingreyGT
New Member
^I TOLD YOU AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!! no i doubt a bolt retraction kit will work and gettin this bolt out is a BIOTCH. Drill it out with GOOD drill bits and make sure you drill straight in order to NOT damage the threads. Use a small bit first and slowly work your way up. GOOD LUCK I FEEL YOUR PAIN02mingreyGT said:
Also go over to Corral.net and do a search plenty of ppl over there have had this happend type in "broke steeda bolt"
Tylerb59
Banned
Installed mine today, here are some notes and things to consider:
* Put the car in 5th gear, you don't need to jack up the car, although its great if you can and keep everything level. I managed to proceed on a level surface in my garage.
* Make sure you take note of the belt routing, it comes in handy later.
* You're going to need an impact wrench to take the alternator off, since it's on a rotating base. The impact wrench will basically 'jerk' it suddenly with a force of torque. It's not that its on particularly tight, just impossible to loosen / tighten without a impact wrench.
- Same reason you need an impact wrench for an automatic vehicle (crank bolt). There is no 5th gear to help prevent the bolt from spinning, unless you stuck a wrench in the torque convertor.
* Spray some thread penetrate on the crank bolt and come back 10 minutes later if you're using a breaker bar. I was able to get the crank bolt off with just a 1/2'' drive breaker bar with a bit of thrust. I used my legs quite a bit to get it done, but it really wasn't too bad, it only took a few pulls and less then 5 mins. It always helps if you have a breaker bar + a cheater (just random tubing which goes over the breaker to give more length and thus more leverage). Although again, impact wrench is the optimal route for this. I have an electric wrench and it was to big (even after removing my radiator fan) to fit and not enough clearence.
* If you're going to use an breaker bar for the crank, you're probably going to have to end up removing the upper radiator hose. Make sure you have plenty of towels underneath the car (if the radiator is full), as well as a bucket to catch the spill. When your car is cold, use a vice grip to pull off the hose, to give you more room to turn your breaker bar. This would also be a good time to drain and flush your raditator. My fluid was a bit yellow in color.
* You're going to need a harmonic balancer pulley puller from Schucks / Checker / Napa / Sears. Mine cost $15, and some how I broke the stupid thing, leaving the bolts snapped into and broken in half in the pulley. Basically I was dead in the water until I figured out a way to use my tire iron (supplied with your spare tire and jack) as a sort of crow bar to eventually pry the pulley off, since I wasn't able to use a puller anymore and really in a bad situation.
If you need to pry the sucker off, do it. Just be careful and work it slowly back and forth so you're not damaging the timing cover (I scratched mine a little). It'll nudge ever so slightly, but this is one way to get the pulley off. But maybe I was just lucky. I wouldn't suggest this method, but if worst comes to worst it's possible. I think I'd be a little concerned the whole prying action to bend the little housing to the crank / oil seal.
* After everything is removed, the rest of the installation is a breeze really. I used the Steeda supplied *longer* bolt to push the new pulley in about 75% with the stock washer then switched back the stock crank bolt to its final resting location and being torqued down.
* I was able to do this all myself, without any assistance including re installing the belt and routing it. Although I've done this to many other cars several times, it just takes a little practice to know how to use the tensioner belt to your advantage.
* Double, triple check your belt routing is in place correctly and the belt grooves fit into place with the pulleys.
* Put everything back together, fire up the car and hope you put everything on correctly.
Now go enjoy your new mod.
My pullies felt like it woke the car up slightly on the upper rpms, but I did feel a little difference in the power. Nothing major, but ever little thing helps in the end.
* Put the car in 5th gear, you don't need to jack up the car, although its great if you can and keep everything level. I managed to proceed on a level surface in my garage.
* Make sure you take note of the belt routing, it comes in handy later.
* You're going to need an impact wrench to take the alternator off, since it's on a rotating base. The impact wrench will basically 'jerk' it suddenly with a force of torque. It's not that its on particularly tight, just impossible to loosen / tighten without a impact wrench.
- Same reason you need an impact wrench for an automatic vehicle (crank bolt). There is no 5th gear to help prevent the bolt from spinning, unless you stuck a wrench in the torque convertor.
* Spray some thread penetrate on the crank bolt and come back 10 minutes later if you're using a breaker bar. I was able to get the crank bolt off with just a 1/2'' drive breaker bar with a bit of thrust. I used my legs quite a bit to get it done, but it really wasn't too bad, it only took a few pulls and less then 5 mins. It always helps if you have a breaker bar + a cheater (just random tubing which goes over the breaker to give more length and thus more leverage). Although again, impact wrench is the optimal route for this. I have an electric wrench and it was to big (even after removing my radiator fan) to fit and not enough clearence.
* If you're going to use an breaker bar for the crank, you're probably going to have to end up removing the upper radiator hose. Make sure you have plenty of towels underneath the car (if the radiator is full), as well as a bucket to catch the spill. When your car is cold, use a vice grip to pull off the hose, to give you more room to turn your breaker bar. This would also be a good time to drain and flush your raditator. My fluid was a bit yellow in color.
* You're going to need a harmonic balancer pulley puller from Schucks / Checker / Napa / Sears. Mine cost $15, and some how I broke the stupid thing, leaving the bolts snapped into and broken in half in the pulley. Basically I was dead in the water until I figured out a way to use my tire iron (supplied with your spare tire and jack) as a sort of crow bar to eventually pry the pulley off, since I wasn't able to use a puller anymore and really in a bad situation.
If you need to pry the sucker off, do it. Just be careful and work it slowly back and forth so you're not damaging the timing cover (I scratched mine a little). It'll nudge ever so slightly, but this is one way to get the pulley off. But maybe I was just lucky. I wouldn't suggest this method, but if worst comes to worst it's possible. I think I'd be a little concerned the whole prying action to bend the little housing to the crank / oil seal.
* After everything is removed, the rest of the installation is a breeze really. I used the Steeda supplied *longer* bolt to push the new pulley in about 75% with the stock washer then switched back the stock crank bolt to its final resting location and being torqued down.
* I was able to do this all myself, without any assistance including re installing the belt and routing it. Although I've done this to many other cars several times, it just takes a little practice to know how to use the tensioner belt to your advantage.
* Double, triple check your belt routing is in place correctly and the belt grooves fit into place with the pulleys.
* Put everything back together, fire up the car and hope you put everything on correctly.
Now go enjoy your new mod.My pullies felt like it woke the car up slightly on the upper rpms, but I did feel a little difference in the power. Nothing major, but ever little thing helps in the end.
Tylerb59 said:Installed mine today, here are some notes and things to consider:
* Put the car in 5th gear, you don't need to jack up the car, although its great if you can and keep everything level. I managed to proceed on a level surface in my garage.
* Make sure you take note of the belt routing, it comes in handy later.
* You're going to need an impact wrench to take the alternator off, since it's on a rotating base. The impact wrench will basically 'jerk' it suddenly with a force of torque. It's not that its on particularly tight, just impossible to loosen / tighten without a impact wrench.
- Same reason you need an impact wrench for an automatic vehicle (crank bolt). There is no 5th gear to help prevent the bolt from spinning, unless you stuck a wrench in the torque convertor.
* Spray some thread penetrate on the crank bolt and come back 10 minutes later if you're using a breaker bar. I was able to get the crank bolt off with just a 1/2'' drive breaker bar with a bit of thrust. I used my legs quite a bit to get it done, but it really wasn't too bad, it only took a few pulls and less then 5 mins. It always helps if you have a breaker bar + a cheater (just random tubing which goes over the breaker to give more length and thus more leverage). Although again, impact wrench is the optimal route for this. I have an electric wrench and it was to big (even after removing my radiator fan) to fit and not enough clearence.
* If you're going to use an breaker bar for the crank, you're probably going to have to end up removing the upper radiator hose. Make sure you have plenty of towels underneath the car (if the radiator is full), as well as a bucket to catch the spill. When your car is cold, use a vice grip to pull off the hose, to give you more room to turn your breaker bar. This would also be a good time to drain and flush your raditator. My fluid was a bit yellow in color.
* You're going to need a harmonic balancer pulley puller from Schucks / Checker / Napa / Sears. Mine cost $15, and some how I broke the stupid thing, leaving the bolts snapped into and broken in half in the pulley. Basically I was dead in the water until I figured out a way to use my tire iron (supplied with your spare tire and jack) as a sort of crow bar to eventually pry the pulley off, since I wasn't able to use a puller anymore and really in a bad situation.
If you need to pry the sucker off, do it. Just be careful and work it slowly back and forth so you're not damaging the timing cover (I scratched mine a little). It'll nudge ever so slightly, but this is one way to get the pulley off. But maybe I was just lucky. I wouldn't suggest this method, but if worst comes to worst it's possible. I think I'd be a little concerned the whole prying action to bend the little housing to the crank / oil seal.
* After everything is removed, the rest of the installation is a breeze really. I used the Steeda supplied *longer* bolt to push the new pulley in about 75% with the stock washer then switched back the stock crank bolt to its final resting location and being torqued down.
* I was able to do this all myself, without any assistance including re installing the belt and routing it. Although I've done this to many other cars several times, it just takes a little practice to know how to use the tensioner belt to your advantage.
* Double, triple check your belt routing is in place correctly and the belt grooves fit into place with the pulleys.
* Put everything back together, fire up the car and hope you put everything on correctly.
My pullies felt like it woke the car up slightly on the upper rpms, but I did feel a little difference in the power. Nothing major, but ever little thing helps in the end.
wow.. that's exactly what I need to install my pulleys. However, did you boil the crank pulley and the new pulley in the water at all? I read that on mustangworld.com and they boil those pulleys to get it to fit. They use march pulley though, not steeda.
Anyhow, I think I might just remove the whole alternator and bring it to pep boy and let them get that only bolt off and install the new pulley (should be free). I'll manage the crank bolt somehow with the breaker bar. I still don't get the harmonic balancer thing but I'll figure it out once I bought it.
Thanks again for the write-up. Oh and did you put the silicone sealant into the key thing on the crank pulley?
02mingreyGT
New Member
Definatley put some silicone sealer in the key notch area to prevent oil from leaking out! I got my crank pully off with a breaker bar really easily while my car was in 3rd gear and im not the strongest guy so give it a shot. You wont need to take off the alt if you have any kind of impact either.
BullittStangV8
Founding Member
Tylerb59
Banned
CottonBurnerz said:
You don't have to boil the Steeda, it has a built in balancer. Like you said, they were using the older March pullies which are the 'piggy' back style. The idea with the March is to use the balancer from the stock crank pulley and have it bolted on to the new UDP. Boiling it would make it easier to stick those two together.
CottonBurnerz said:
Yes. After I got the stock pulley off, I scraped off the old silicone gasket material and relined the key way and part of the actual pulley.
Like always, it's a good idea to remove old gasket material and start fresh.
02mingreyGT
New Member
Its kinda funny that you would ask me that but i get my car back todya FINALLY after one whole month to the day without having it. Ive already forgotten what my exhaust sounds likeBullittStangV8 said:
A good friend of my dads had this happen to himself one time so he fixed my problem for me. Oh yea cotton i guess while you go down to pep boys or where ever to get your alt pully taken off you can rent a harmonic ballancer puller to get the crank pully off. What it does is as you screw in the bolt into the crank it pushes the crank pulley off of the key and it comes off. Its kinda hard for me to put into words tho i cant really explain it sorry but whoever you rent the tool from will explain to you how it works
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