Steeda UD Pullies

you are not supposed to reuse the crank bolt. its a torque to yield bolt and needs to be replaced. the waterpump pulley bolts can be reused, and the stud for the alternator can be trimmed instead of replaced.
 
i heard on another forum that the steeda kits come with new bolts now. i installed a set not too long ago that did not come with a new CRANK bolt. it came with a starter bolt only. i recommend throwing that one away and renting the installer kit from the parts store like autozone. check out the link in my sig for the part numbers needed for the installer tool and the removal tool. use the chrysler puller, as it works the best for this application.

if you do not get a new crank bolt, you will have to order one. i think they are only like $6 from the dealer, IIRC.
 
Before I start let me say clearly that I am not trying to dispute or convince anyone to do what I did.

I purchased my Steeda pulley in early May of this year from Brenspeed and in the instructions that came with mine it says…

Use the longer bolt supplied to pull the balancer onto the crankshaft.
Don’t tighten the bolt all the way. Once the pulley is on far enough for the factory bolt to reach, Remove the longer bolt and install the factory bolt.
Do not reuse the factory bolt more than 2 times. If you do, replace it with a new one from your dealership, part # F5RZ-6A340-B.

Following the instructions provided with my Steeda pulleys… I re-used the factory crank bolt and followed the torque specifications to a T.

Again I am not saying you should do what I did… it is your vehicle do what you feel is right.
 
Before I start let me say clearly that I am not trying to dispute or convince anyone to do what I did.

I purchased my Steeda pulley in early May of this year from Brenspeed and in the instructions that came with mine it says…

Use the longer bolt supplied to pull the balancer onto the crankshaft.
Don’t tighten the bolt all the way. Once the pulley is on far enough for the factory bolt to reach, Remove the longer bolt and install the factory bolt.
Do not reuse the factory bolt more than 2 times. If you do, replace it with a new one from your dealership, part # F5RZ-6A340-B.

Following the instructions provided with my Steeda pulleys… I re-used the factory crank bolt and followed the torque specifications to a T.

Again I am not saying you should do what I did… it is your vehicle do what you feel is right.

I agree that it should be replaced, but read those very same directions and couldn't stop myself from getting those pullies on. Everything is going well so far. Thank you for the fast reply Bigcat!

By the way for all you who say there is not real power to be had, I agree but like getting rid of extra weight there is some real quickness about my pony now! Also just try and keep my baby from revving up to the red line now, it doesn't happen without cruise control!
 
It only costs around $6.00 for a new crank bolt and it's worth the insurance. Steeda provides the bolt of the alternator so your belt won't shred. I like the pulleys and have noticed it's a bit easier to coordinate the clutch/gas whike taking off in a normal take off in first gear. Not as much resistance.
 
FWIW, my Roush pullies came with a new crank bolt. no separate trip to the dealer for me. the only real difference between the two is that roush says to trim that alternator stud instead of replacing it. not a big deal, you only trim about 1/4 inch off and none of it is threaded, so you dont worry about goofing up the threads. the instructions that come with the roush are also 100 times better. about 10 pages with full color pics. the steeda instruction leave something to be desired.
 
I agree that it should be replaced, but read those very same directions and couldn't stop myself from getting those pullies on. Everything is going well so far. Thank you for the fast reply Bigcat!

By the way for all you who say there is not real power to be had, I agree but like getting rid of extra weight there is some real quickness about my pony now! Also just try and keep my baby from revving up to the red line now, it doesn't happen without cruise control!

Well, for those of you who don't consider 10 more HP, as being real power to be had ? Then not only do I disagree ! but my dyno results also disagree as well..IMHO, UDP's provide one of the best bangs for the buck, in not only improving HP and Torque performance.. but also extend the life of you're power driven accessories and engine as well, by reducing parasitic drag..All in all, I believe 10 more ponies are considered as real power to be had, in which you both notice and feel SOTP improvement in overall throttle response..and most of all, UDP's don't require any additional tuning either. :nice:
 
Hello fellas, How difficult are pulleys to install, for real. I've install Headers, X-pipe and MSD coil on plugs so far on my 07. Do you think pullies are an option for me. I hear if you dont torque bolts correctly and stuff you could really damage your engine. Of course I dont want to do that for 5-10 hp. If anyone has personally installed them and could help that would be much appreciated. Thanks, Chris
 
Hello fellas, How difficult are pulleys to install, for real. I've install Headers, X-pipe and MSD coil on plugs so far on my 07. Do you think pullies are an option for me. I hear if you dont torque bolts correctly and stuff you could really damage your engine. Of course I dont want to do that for 5-10 hp. If anyone has personally installed them and could help that would be much appreciated. Thanks, Chris

They are much easier than headers. It may take you three hours if you go real slow, drink a 6-pack, and BS with friends in the process. You do need to torque the crank bolt down correctly, but using a torque wrench is very simple. If your not bolting on a blower then this is a MUST bolt on! You won't be sorry and if you are that worried about it, it can't take a mechanic that is worth anything more than an hour and half or about $150 in cost for install. Even with that added to the cost of the pullies this is still a great upgrade!