Steering issue?

suki243 · May 2, 2009

So since i got the car 2 years ago there's been a little issue with the steering, its supposedly a dealer installed power steering setup; the point is i dont know the origins of the setup for sure.

The issue that i'm having is when i'm driving on the freeway, The car wont stay straight. This isn't cause of alignment, its because the steering wheel itself doesn't want to stay int he middle, it either wants to be slightly to the left or slightly to the right. It is as if there are small grooves on either side that want it to stay there. Then when you need to go beyond the grooves you need to put a little bit of extra force and then it becomes smooth again.
It's somewhat difficult to explain.

Now here's the weird part. I started off with this problem when i first got the car and didn't think much of it. Then I had the springs, shocks, sway bars, and alignment done by a shop and it was fine. The steering was so smooth. But that was about 3-4 months ago... Now its happening again. Its kinda scary on the freeway when you feel like the steering wheel is locked, its like you want to turn it but it needs a little extra umph. And its pretty annoying to switch side to side.

Any ideas?

Rusty67 · May 3, 2009

Got some pics of the power steering setup ?

Do you have a tilt column ?

suki243 · May 3, 2009

No, its not a tilt column; from what i know its the stock column, but the P.O. had the power steering pump installed by a ford dealership, when or what they put in? idk.

I tried to check the power steering level but i couldn't get an accurate reading, i'll try again tomorrow with the car warmed up again (the neighbors complain when i start my car at night :\ )
Also, for brake fluid; i checked a few months ago and the reservoir was full to the brim; but today i checked and its running pretty low. Any ideas? i haven't done anything to the car but drive it a lot more often, and this time it was parked on my driveway which is a pretty steep slope.

Pics from a while back

2+2GT · May 3, 2009

Classic symptom. Your power steering control valve needs to be rebuilt. It wouldn't hurt to adjust the gearbox, either. Don't guess, follow the procedure in the Manual to the letter.

Rusty67 · May 3, 2009

Looks like a standard power steering pump to me. I was hoping to get a pic of the power steering components, the power ram and control valve. I would also speculate the control valve is out of whack.

2+2GT · May 3, 2009

Rusty67 said:
Looks like a standard power steering pump to me. I was hoping to get a pic of the power steering components, the power ram and control valve. I would also speculate the control valve is out of whack.

You are probably right about the valve. His pump has the wrong reservoir, but it is a cosmetic difference and should work perfectly. The valves were internally all the same*, the 64-66 center link was unique, in that the ball sleeve was integral, while it was added on to the 67-70. They don't interchange, it's hard to see how he could have the wrong one.

*In late 67 the pressure inlet changed from 1/4" to 5/16".

suki243 · May 3, 2009

I was hoping to get a pic of the power steering components, the power ram and control valve. I would also speculate the control valve is out of whack.

Are you talking about these? Idk what that piece of duck tape is covering but i rather not remove it right now =\
It's a little messy so i'll try to clean it up and get pictures later if requested.
Anyone rebuild a control valve? How long does it take and about how much $$ or mechanical expertise is needed? My expertise is pretty limited, the most i've done was wiring and heater core replacement.
I have the shop manual but its kinda vague, mustangsmonthly also has a feature of it online but no tutorial as to how to do it.
Lastly, can I drive on it for a while without something serious happening? I dont want it to get worse and i also dont want my steering to lock up on me.
Thanks in advance

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Sorry for the absence of a 56k warning

2+2GT · May 3, 2009

The most important thing to remember about removing the valve, which in your case, with a 64-66 type, is you have to remove the entire center link. Do not use a "pickle fork" to remove the ball stud or cylinder pins, this tool can destroy the valve or cylinder if you do. Use a clamp style tie rod separator. The Factory Service Manual covers rebuilding this valve in detail.

BTW, you have generic hoses. The factory items lay flat against the valve and are clamped to it, to prevent leaking and keep the hoses safe.

Rusty67 · May 3, 2009

Try driving it with the PS pump belt off and see if you still have the same issues. It does sounds like a control valve issue tho.

2+2GT · May 3, 2009

Rusty67 said:
Try driving it with the PS pump belt off and see if you still have the same issues. It does sounds like a control valve issue tho.

You are kidding, right? With no hydraulic pressure, there will be about 1" of play in the ball stud. All he'll learn is he now has about a half-turn of play in the steering.

Rusty67 · May 3, 2009

Really ?

I know you can drive a drained/unassited rack and it will just make it harder to turn the wheel. Not having the power assist will actually cause increased play with power ram setup ?

Mark_69 · May 3, 2009

If you choose to rebuild the valve yourself, don't worry. There aren't a lot of parts and it is a very easy project. You will probably spend more time removing and installing the valve than you will rebuilding it. Just be sure to replace the conical aluminum seats (I don't know what they are called) where the hoses hook up. Leaks often come from people installing new hoses but neglecting to change this part. Maybe this link helps? http://www.stangerssite.com/HowItWorksControlValve.html

Good luck.

Oh, I found this link from the same website.
http://www.stangerssite.com/CanIControlValve.html

2+2GT · May 3, 2009

Rusty67 said:
Really ?

I know you can drive a drained/unassited rack and it will just make it harder to turn the wheel. Not having the power assist will actually cause increased play with power ram setup ?

Yeah, the ball stud actuates a spool valve which tries to keep the valve centered. It can draw as much as 800 psi. With zero pressure, the spool is free to travel off center, almost a half inch in either direction. Very sensitive, the 63-82 Corvette system was almost identical.

Rusty67 · May 3, 2009

Interesting....

Ok, scratch that, don't remove the PS pump belt lol.

suki243 · May 3, 2009

Lol, thanks for all your input guys, As soon as finals are over i'll look more into it, which end next Tuesday. It should be fine till then right? or should I not drive on it?

Rusty67 · May 3, 2009

As long as its safe to drive then you should be fine. If it starts geting worse, stop driving it.

2+2GT · May 3, 2009

Well, I don't see it getting worse, especially not in that short time.

suki243 · May 10, 2009

So i was on my way home, and as i pulled into the driveway i hear the power steering pump become really loud even with the slightest of turns, i pull into my garage and look at the floor and i see a trail of red fluid behind the car. I jack it up and look underneath to find that one of the hoses is leaking, only drops though; It is the one that connects to the control valve in the front from what looks like the pump directly. I think hmm maybe the nut is a little loose and after 1/2 an hr of tinkering around , raising and lowering the car after each turn of the wrench to try and move the nut a little, i turn on the car really quick, and i see a steady flow of fluid coming down... I immediately turn off the car, check the power steering fluid level, and its bone dry. Now I guess I'm left without a choice, i've gotta rebuild it myself because i don't want to fry the power steering pump while trying to drive it to my mechanic.
How would i know if it's the hose or it just not being tight enough cause i tried my best to tighten it but the lower control arm gets in the way, is there a tool like an angled wrench?

Sigh on top of this the master cylinder is leaking, and the stereo is going turning on and off. Things just like to all break down at the same time

2+2GT · May 10, 2009

You need to use a special wrench on these inverted flare nuts or instead of tightening they'll just get distorted.

suki243 · May 11, 2009

Ahhh I see, That is true they were getting distorted. Any suggestions how much they should be tightened to? I dont want to tighten it so much making it break (i did that to a manual oil pressure gauge line)

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