The tube seats are soft aluminum, so you really don't need more than 10-20 ft-lbs. If the tube seats are screwed up, you won't get a seal, period. Generic hoses and no strap holding the steel tubes (because they are generic and don't contour to the housing) are the reason for this failure, because they aren't strap-clamped to the valve housing. The good rebuild kits have all the parts, including new tube seats, the cheaper ones are incomplete.
hey,
i replaced my control valve 5 years ago or so. and i had problems with powersteering before that and a little after, but i just drove my car for the first time in 6 months, after installing a new suspension, new engine, new blah blah blah. but the power steering is the same. i haven't gotten a new alignment yet but it is very wandery after 50-60 mph. but under that it's fine. i've read on here a lot that power steering wanders at high speeds on these old cars, because of the steering box that came with them? or at least that is one theory from one person. i know that an alignment will help, but this seems to be more of a theme than other parts of the car. if i get a alignment and it still happens would you still recommend rebuilding the CV? even after replacing it 5 years ago? seriously, i am curiously asking and really want to know : ) thanks!
i replaced my control valve 5 years ago or so. and i had problems with powersteering before that and a little after, but i just drove my car for the first time in 6 months, after installing a new suspension, new engine, new blah blah blah. but the power steering is the same. i haven't gotten a new alignment yet but it is very wandery after 50-60 mph. but under that it's fine. i've read on here a lot that power steering wanders at high speeds on these old cars, because of the steering box that came with them? or at least that is one theory from one person. i know that an alignment will help, but this seems to be more of a theme than other parts of the car. if i get a alignment and it still happens would you still recommend rebuilding the CV? even after replacing it 5 years ago? seriously, i am curiously asking and really want to know : ) thanks!
I think another thing to keep in mind is that i did have my alignment done. And although this steering issue doesn't persist all the time when it does happen it doesn't happen at speeds above 50; the days when its bad it happens at almost every speed; i feel it more at higher because it requires less turning on a free way thus when there is even a little play it can be scarier.
A few new questions:
1. What are those special wrenches called? and could i pick a 7/16 up at an autozone or something?
2. What kind of pump do i have, is there anything on the housing i can look for? I'm going to order a new hose and NPD's catalog says there's a differentiation between eaton and a ford pump.
3. Does generic vs. these npd specific ones make a big difference?
1. What are those special wrenches called? and could i pick a 7/16 up at an autozone or something?
2. What kind of pump do i have, is there anything on the housing i can look for? I'm going to order a new hose and NPD's catalog says there's a differentiation between eaton and a ford pump.
3. Does generic vs. these npd specific ones make a big difference?
Alrighty, here's an update.
1.) i got one of those wrenches and i tightened the nut on the pressure hose (pump to valve) it caused it to drip but only a little, when i was getting it ready to take to the mechanic (he had to replace a fuel line) the next morning a steady stream of fluid was pouring out; i decided enough was enough and i took the power steering belt off (i didn't want to risk burning the pump). It was tough but i got it to the mechanic. He said he couldn't do the power steering.
2.) I take it to another place and he gives me a 2.5k estimate; he looked at the pump and was able to pull it out a bit, he said that that much play means its ready to go. His prices on the parts were kinda ridiculous, i was able to find most the parts for half the price at NPD; i trust the quality of NPD's parts anyone have a good experience anywhere else?
-The control valve is bent up; therefore a core charge will apply;
-The steering cylinder is also leaking a little.
Idk where to go from here. How much work is it to change to manual steering? and how much would hte conversion be?
I can't afford 2.5k to repair this.
1.) i got one of those wrenches and i tightened the nut on the pressure hose (pump to valve) it caused it to drip but only a little, when i was getting it ready to take to the mechanic (he had to replace a fuel line) the next morning a steady stream of fluid was pouring out; i decided enough was enough and i took the power steering belt off (i didn't want to risk burning the pump). It was tough but i got it to the mechanic. He said he couldn't do the power steering.
2.) I take it to another place and he gives me a 2.5k estimate; he looked at the pump and was able to pull it out a bit, he said that that much play means its ready to go. His prices on the parts were kinda ridiculous, i was able to find most the parts for half the price at NPD; i trust the quality of NPD's parts anyone have a good experience anywhere else?
-The control valve is bent up; therefore a core charge will apply;
-The steering cylinder is also leaking a little.
Idk where to go from here. How much work is it to change to manual steering? and how much would hte conversion be?
I can't afford 2.5k to repair this.
Installing the new parts is not a hard DIY repair. If you follow the advice earlier in the thread, i.e. using the right tools, you should be able to do this fairly quickly and for a lot less than 2.5K.
If you can wait, you can send many of the parts out for rebuild by Stanger. If you can't wait, you can buy a new pump, valve, and power cylinder from NPD or whomever. Stanger's site says there is a lot of variance in the quality of the valves, so you should read his caveats.
If you really don't want to DIY, I strongly recommend you get a new estimate and find someone who will let you supply the parts.
If you can wait, you can send many of the parts out for rebuild by Stanger. If you can't wait, you can buy a new pump, valve, and power cylinder from NPD or whomever. Stanger's site says there is a lot of variance in the quality of the valves, so you should read his caveats.
If you really don't want to DIY, I strongly recommend you get a new estimate and find someone who will let you supply the parts.
1.) i got one of those wrenches and i tightened the nut on the pressure hose (pump to valve) it caused it to drip but only a little, when i was getting it ready to take to the mechanic (he had to replace a fuel line) the next morning a steady stream of fluid was pouring out; i decided enough was enough and i took the power steering belt off (i didn't want to risk burning the pump). It was tough but i got it to the mechanic. He said he couldn't do the power steering.
The nut is probably not seated properly in the threads. Even a butchered inverted flare should not leak in this manner.
2.) I take it to another place and he gives me a 2.5k estimate; he looked at the pump and was able to pull it out a bit, he said that that much play means its ready to go.
Voodo? If it's not leaking, leave it alone.
His prices on the parts were kinda ridiculous, i was able to find most the parts for half the price at NPD; i trust the quality of NPD's parts anyone have a good experience anywhere else?
Yes.
2.5K? Either this was his way of telling you to go away, or he's shady. Total conversion should cost 1K less than that, even if you paid to have the work done.
-The control valve is bent up; therefore a core charge will apply;
How? It's cast iron.
-The steering cylinder is also leaking a little.
Pretty common. Usually easy to fix. If the chrome rod is bent or scored, it's time for a new cylinder.
I can't afford 2.5k to repair this.
I don't know how it could cost that much if you tried.
The nut is probably not seated properly in the threads. Even a butchered inverted flare should not leak in this manner.
2.) I take it to another place and he gives me a 2.5k estimate; he looked at the pump and was able to pull it out a bit, he said that that much play means its ready to go.
Voodo? If it's not leaking, leave it alone.
His prices on the parts were kinda ridiculous, i was able to find most the parts for half the price at NPD; i trust the quality of NPD's parts anyone have a good experience anywhere else?
Yes.
2.5K? Either this was his way of telling you to go away, or he's shady. Total conversion should cost 1K less than that, even if you paid to have the work done.
-The control valve is bent up; therefore a core charge will apply;
How? It's cast iron.
-The steering cylinder is also leaking a little.
Pretty common. Usually easy to fix. If the chrome rod is bent or scored, it's time for a new cylinder.
I can't afford 2.5k to repair this.
I don't know how it could cost that much if you tried.