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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Steering Question/Problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter mjg407
  • Start date Start date May 9, 2007

mjg407

New Member
May 9, 2007
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0
May 9, 2007
#1
  • May 9, 2007
  • #1
Hello all, I'm new to this forum and did search the posts but couldn't find an exact solution. I have a 1968 Fastback with 17x8 Rims. The following components have been replaced/added. Front/Rear 1 inch Sway Bars, New Shocks/Springs. I just replaced the upper/lower Control Arms and Inner/Outer tie rod ends. It was aligned by a professional shop. Power steering, front disc brakes.
- During the tie rod replacement, I tried to put TCPs Bump Steer Outer tie rod ends on, but they didn't fit (maybe I have Granada discs) however the Mustang Outer Tie Rod ends bolted right in.
- The car still feels wobbly on the road and the steering does not return to center in a turn? The steering is tight. What should I be looking at? IF it is Granada spindles, do they need to do a Granada alignment? Thanks.
 
P

prpony

New Member
Apr 4, 2005
33
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San Juan Puerto Rico
May 9, 2007
#2
  • May 9, 2007
  • #2
I have the granada swap on my 65 and it also was very loose. Idid everything you have done except the TCP's. After various shop alignments and no real improvements I went under my self to check and see. I found that the strut rod bushings were worn and cracked. I changed them and walahh.. Problema resuelto.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
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109
LA, CA
May 10, 2007
#3
  • May 10, 2007
  • #3
Strut rod bushings are a good start. I would also check your idler arm to see if it is worn out. Do you have power or manual steering ? I'm not sure if the control valve can cause that but I think it can so if you have power steering that might be an issue. Someone else who knows a little more about power steering can chime in to confirm/deny my statement.
 

mjg407

New Member
May 9, 2007
8
0
0
May 10, 2007
#4
  • May 10, 2007
  • #4
I have power steering. I believe the strut rod bushings were just replaced also when I did the upper/lower control arms. I did talk with the alignment shop and he used the stock 68 alignment specs, which I don't think work when you put different springs and bigger tire on.
 

jcode68

Active Member
Jul 15, 2003
892
1
29
Massachussetts
May 10, 2007
#5
  • May 10, 2007
  • #5
The symptom of not returning to center could be the steering box is out of adjustment. Some people will try to remove any play from the steering by adjusting the steering box (rightfully so, this is why the adjustment screw is on the box), but if the screw is over tightened, the gears begin to bind and the result is the steering will not auto correct to center and will feel tight. This may not be your problem, but the symptom you describe could be caused by this. Good luck.
 

68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
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Arizona
May 10, 2007
#6
  • May 10, 2007
  • #6
I had a similar problem and it turned out that the bracket that mounts on the driver's side rail that the steeriing ram attaches to was loose - the press in nuts weren't exactly pressed in anymore. I had it the bracket welded in and it cured the problem.
 

CraigMBA

New Member
Mar 24, 2007
783
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Orange, CA
May 10, 2007
#7
  • May 10, 2007
  • #7
I say caster.

Do you have the print out from the alignment last time it was done?
 

CraigMBA

New Member
Mar 24, 2007
783
1
0
Orange, CA
May 10, 2007
#8
  • May 10, 2007
  • #8
mjg407 said:
I did talk with the alignment shop and he used the stock 68 alignment specs, which I don't think work when you put different springs and bigger tire on.
Click to expand...

Bingo. There's the problem. I bet your car has negative caster. Here's some guidelines (thanks Daze, I'm plagerizing your site):

1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.

2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.

3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.

4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in

While you're at it, this isn't a bad mod either:

http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/drop
 

mjg407

New Member
May 9, 2007
8
0
0
May 14, 2007
#9
  • May 14, 2007
  • #9
CraigMBA said:
Bingo. There's the problem. I bet your car has negative caster. Here's some guidelines (thanks Daze, I'm plagerizing your site):

1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.

2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.

3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.

4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in

While you're at it, this isn't a bad mod either:

http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/drop
Click to expand...
Ill try that to see if it works. I think they also over tightened the steering box too. I bring it back on Friday so I'll let everyone know.
 

mjg407

New Member
May 9, 2007
8
0
0
Jun 12, 2007
#10
  • Jun 12, 2007
  • #10
mjg407 said:
Ill try that to see if it works. I think they also over tightened the steering box too. I bring it back on Friday so I'll let everyone know.
Click to expand...

Wow, did the shelby drop from Daze and what a huge difference. The car still seems slightly funky at higher speeds. What effect to worn out leaf springs have on your handling. The previous owner put in air shocks most likely to counter a leaf spring issue.
 
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