Steering Rack Choices

[Vidar]

My 88' GT's steering rack went out (passenger side leak) and I'm wondering on my choices for a replacement. I know there is the Ford and TRW in both standard and sport. I have the factory pump so I need to make sure whatever rack I choose won't cause a conflict.

My confusion is on the completness of the racks out there. I'm assuming the base rack doesn't include the rag joints, boots or inner ties, but I'm a little leary about reusing the old rag joints. I don't feel any slop in them, but they APPEAR to be factory riveted to the steering shaft??

Also, I'm not sure about the ball-joint on the driver-side tie-rod end. I don't feel any slop in there, exactly, but when it was installed, I always felt a little "clicking" through the steering wheel when the car was parked and on and never knew if it was through the tilt mechanism or flex shaft or if it was in the ends.

Do my rack choices out there include the entire rack WITH tie-rod ends? Should I attempt to buy this way or piece it together myself? Sorry for the 20 questions, but I don't want to have to tear down the front end again.. it's not the funnest job I can think of.

 

[jerry beach]

turn the wheel from lock to lock and see how many turns it takes. It will be 2 1/2 or 3 full turns. Replace it with a like unit. I am pretty sure I got the TRW unit and its been under my car for about 4 yrs, 40,000mi. No probs. It came with the inner tie rod ends installed. Just take your time and allow 1/2 day to do it if you havent done one before. Get a manual if you dont have one or read a good write-up on how to do it, there are some details that can be overlooked easily.

As for that popping you hear in the front end. Have someone else turn the wheel while you locate the sound, that should be easy. Good luck.

 

[Vidar]

Well, I already have the old rack out of the car, so that's no longer an option.. though I could manually turn the rack's input shaft to see how many revolutions it takes from lock to lock.

The clicking I was talking about I "felt". It's not really audible that I've ever been able to observe.

So, to get my terminology correct.. the inner tie rods are the threaded male rod with the rag joint on the other.. whereas the outer have the ball joint that goes into the steering spindle?

If that's correct, then the "complete" rack would have everything out to the male threaded rod?

 

[jrichker]

Here's some installation tips..

The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning , but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.

Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.

 

[Vidar]

Well, thank you very much for the very detailed reply. As I mentioned, I have already removed the rack, what I failed to mention, is that I have also removed the tie rod ends already.

My current dilemna seems to surround the issue of the completeness of the racks I can get locally. Napa, Schucks, Baxters and Autozone all sell "short racks", which APPARENTLY do not include the boots or the inner tie-rod ends. These short racks all seem to sell for around $100.

I'm not so greatly concerned about having to buy the inner tie rods separately as I'm concerned about the fact that the rag joints appear to have some kind of rivet, locking a collet over the joint? Is this something anyone has heard of?

If any of you guys know of local brick and mortars where I can find (I live in the Portland, Oregon area) a COMPLETE rack, I'd be really appreciative.

If, on the other hand, I'm making a bigger deal about buying a complete unit instead of seperately, I'm willing to listen.

 

[jrichker]

The inner tie rod is secured with a pop rivet. Crank the steering shaft unti the inner tie rod end is all the way out. Then drill out the rivet with a 1/8" drill. The rack shaft will have a flat spot just inside the place were you drilled out the rivet. Put a big adjustable wrench on it to prevent the shaft from turning and then wrench off the inner tie rod end. The new tie rod end may come with a pop rivet or Loc-tite, or a nylon insert to keep the inner tie rod end from unscrewing and coming loose.

 

[Vidar]

Okay, so then my last question, is how will I know if my rag joints are bad? I know they are only $45/each, but that's something I can obviously replace down the road, with the rack in place. But if they are potentially bad, I want to take care of it now.