When I brought car home the TB was one with a hole on the TB blade and would stick. The included parts bin had another completeTB without the hole in the blade, so I swapped that on to resolve sticking and the high idle. You guessed it, this used replacement is sticking too at idle and WOT. Fixable? If so, what seems to be the issue with these? Thanks for any help.
Sticking Throttle Body
- Thread starter NooStang
- Start date
Have you tried cleaning it? Fixed mine.... If I recall, it requires a special cleaner, but wd40 worked for me....
CAMTWO1070
Active Member
On the TB's theres a lil sticker thats says not to use carb cleaner etc to clean the TB. as theres some sort of Teflon coating inside them so I bench mine and reapply the Teflon coating with some liquid teflon and an airbrsh kit..
I had to do it to my BBK twin 61mm TB plus had to modify the rod that was sticking inside the body due to the discs being too thick for the slots... ..........
This TB had maybe 500 miles of some rough driving before reakizing the TB out of the box was junk and the manufacturer unwilling to take responsibility for their shoddy product they sold me .....
When my stock TB's stick is after I take them apart and thats because the discs are shaped in a certain way to work smoothly with the angle they sit at.
What I do is I hold the TB up to the light to see how much the disc is off with the TS screw all the way out and If I see lots of light around the flap or flaps I bench the TB then I slightly loosen the screws holding the flap or flaps then using the back of a screwdriver I tap the TB blade to realign it to the TB bore/s better then I rotate the throttle to see if its still sticking and if its not I tighten the screws and retry....
I even had to take apart my new BBK to make it work right//. They put anodize on the throttle blade rod and it added so much it added to the throttle sticking so I removed the anodize plus sprayed it with Teflon. I also softened up the edges of the discs and sprayed them too.
Its been 4yrs since and not a single issue.................LOL
What most dont realize is that Throttlebodies wear out through erosion and corrosion..The air coming in actually reshapes the metal discs over time...
Good Luck
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Most of them you can just hit with some throttle body cleaner, a light scrubbing with an old toothbrush, rinse with throttle body cleaner, let dry, reinstall, and call it a day.
Same with the mass air meter body and element. Be very careful cleaning the element. I typically use a cotton swab soaked in the cleaner and gently clean the element. Toothbrush on the housing.
Same with the mass air meter body and element. Be very careful cleaning the element. I typically use a cotton swab soaked in the cleaner and gently clean the element. Toothbrush on the housing.
Hate bbk just for those split shaft t-bodies, seen more then a few snap over the years.On the TB's theres a lil sticker thats says not to use carb cleaner etc to clean the TB. as theres some sort of Teflon coating inside them so I bench mine and reapply the Teflon coating with some liquid teflon and an airbrsh kit..
I had to do it to my BBK twin 61mm TB plus had to modify the rod that was sticking inside the body due to the discs being too thick for the slots... ..........
This TB had maybe 500 miles of some rough driving before reakizing the TB out of the box was junk and the manufacturer unwilling to take responsibility for their shoddy product they sold me .....
When my stock TB's stick is after I take them apart and thats because the discs are shaped in a certain way to work smoothly with the angle they sit at.
What I do is I hold the TB up to the light to see how much the disc is off with the TS screw all the way out and If I see lots of light around the flap or flaps I bench the TB then I slightly loosen the screws holding the flap or flaps then using the back of a screwdriver I tap the TB blade to realign it to the TB bore/s better then I rotate the throttle to see if its still sticking and if its not I tighten the screws and retry....
I even had to take apart my new BBK to make it work right//. They put anodize on the throttle blade rod and it added so much it added to the throttle sticking so I removed the anodize plus sprayed it with Teflon. I also softened up the edges of the discs and sprayed them too.
Its been 4yrs since and not a single issue.................LOL
What most dont realize is that Throttlebodies wear out through erosion and corrosion..The air coming in actually reshapes the metal discs over time...
Good Luck
Does anybody know of a throttle body for a Fox Mustang that is (in your honest opinion) more reliable than an Accufab?
Stock. They are relatively simple creatures.
I would suggest to @NooStang popping the throttle cable and see if the issue goes away.
The cheapy 75mm China billet knock off of the old Holley is decent but needs a radial $4 shaft seal, same for the LS billet knock offs. Got one with a used intake and its better then others... other then that, I stick with the old frpp/ explore or accufabs. Haven't had or seen a real Holley billet or an old school svo in ages. If a car had a pro products, bbk or edelbrock when I buy it, its comes off. Only issues I ever had with accufab is most never fully open with thier linkage as shipped.
I had old ford racing 65 bend the blade in a u from a nitrous pop. Stole a blade off an explorer unit and ran it for years without issue, hard to beat those but limited sizes.
All ways want to Check for bind without the cable on and at temp, pretty easy to spot when its a blade/ linkage issue or the pedal/cable that way.
I had old ford racing 65 bend the blade in a u from a nitrous pop. Stole a blade off an explorer unit and ran it for years without issue, hard to beat those but limited sizes.
All ways want to Check for bind without the cable on and at temp, pretty easy to spot when its a blade/ linkage issue or the pedal/cable that way.
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