Still Overheating, DESPARATE!

[fox racer]

Well after a short leave of absence, im back. my comp is broken so im using my dad's lap top till I buy one. As some of you kno, im having an overheatin problem, and well Im not only stumped but Im FED UP. Heres a list of whats been replaced:
Heads (GT40 Y303 aluminum)
Intake (Cobra)
ALL the Gaskets
Coolant
Water Pump (Summit peice, flows 30% more)
Thermostat (180* Mr. Gasket Fail proof)
Stock Fan is FINE
Fluidyne Radiator

I was planing on re installing the stock pullies since Im trying to Save money. I was going to get a Black Magic Extreme fan but I would REALLY like he avoid that since I still need a lapttop for school and I would have REALLY liked to get an Ipod for the gym/school/work commute.

The problem Im having is it will go up tp like 220 or higher at idle, then only cool off when i start to drive. even then it sits at like 195-205 maybe higher depending on how hot it is out. Im not losing and oil (except for some minor burnoff which my car has always done, maybe about .5 qt every 2 months), collant level is going unchanged, and I dont smell anything. All this crap started happening once the weather started to get warm and after i replaced the motor mounts and added long tube headers. I kno my motor doesnt sit perfectly straight (tilted slightly)from the motor mounts, coul this affect it that much? I have checked and rechecked for any bubbles. Headgasket maybe? running Lean possibly?

PLEASE help, I just want my car to be reliable, I dont wann stress out over traffic anymore lol.

 

[stang8urimport]

Are you SURE your fan is fine? From the sounds of it it doesn't sound like it. If you have a thick aluminum radiator, that pushes the rad out towards the engine farther, which makes the fan sit closer to the rad itself, making it much less efficient. If it's overheating at idle, but not at speed.. then this is an easy answer and fix. You dont have enough airflow over the rad. at idle when the car isn't moving. You need to get a new fan clutch (Police HD fan clutch is your best bet FROM FORD), or go for the electric fan/DC Controller setup. www.dccontrol.com has Mark fan+controller setups for around 320 bucks. Money well spent, and as long as you have a 3G alt, you will be cool as ever.

Nick

 

[HISSIN50]

It seems like a few issues could be there. It sounds like you have U/D's - that doesnt help anything and can make fan diagnostics hard. The fact that you run a bit hot at speed (assuming the air dam is present), coupled with the hot stationary running, sounds like a heat rejection issue. I see your nice Fluidyne radiator though. Are you sure you trust the gauge you're using?

Is the cooling system holding pressure?

I'd get stockish pulleys back on first. Then evaluate the idle temps. You can do a J/Y fan and alt upgrade if you need to.

Good luck.

 

[pb_paulie_b]

In cases like this it could be something not very obvious. Underdrives, stuck stat, wrong placement of the intake gaskets, are you running the back plate for your water pump?

 

[DJTR]

if you don't drive it in the winter take out the thermostat and see that that changes anything. If the thermostat is sticking that could be causing alot of your issues.