Stock Air Box Vs. Conical Filter

93gtmustang

10 Year Member
Oct 21, 2006
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I have a K&N conical filter, C&L 76mm MAF Meter, C&L Cold Air Intake on my 1993GT Mustang. I was talking to C&L about what size air filter I should be running and they told me that their MAF Meter is designed to work with the factory air box, not a conical filter in the engine bay , which I have. They said that the fan would create turbulance affecting the MAF read. I told them I didn't have a stock fan. I have an electric fan which doesn't move as much air around the engine bay. They told me that may be ok, but the stock air box is what they reccomend.
I have a chance to purchase a stock air box.
Do you think I should change to a stock air box?
Is the stock air box more air restrictive?
I guess I could just buy a heat shield for my K&N .

The link below has a pic of their reccomended set up.

http://www.cnlperformance.com/images/76installed.jpg

Thanks
 
The stock air box is the safest guaruntee you can have of eliminating tuning issues related to airflow. Your electric fan will probably lessen this potential, but if you decide to keep the conical filter, I'd say go with the heat shield idea.
 
If the CAI puts a bend just before the C&L, then you are still likely to have issues.
The stock airbox is the best way to run a C&L meter. This is the only application which they were meant to be used in.

Keep in mind that the stock airbox is a CAI... and will not be a restriction.

If you are going to run a C&L MAF, then the stock airbox is the best way to do it...


jason
 
Not only is it a good idea to run the identical setup that the MAf was designed for...but the stock CAI as they mentioned above is actually quite good. (one of the few things ford got right) Aftermarket CAI's often give little to no power improvements on stock to mildly modified five litres. are you having any light throttle driveability problems or idle issues? good luck man
 
FWIW, I actually LOST power when I threw on a conical filter that I had laying around the garage. I tried it with an elbow going into the fenderwell, and also just clamping it straight on in place of the stock airbox, but the result was the same. I could actually feel a LOSS of power at WOT, and I got a bit of pinging, as well.

A stock airbox with a drop-in K&N panel filter is probably your best bet, up until you get into the higher (250+ rwhp) range. Most CAI's are just good for underhood bling, and that's it.
 
Is there ever a situation where the air box is worse?

I'm a reject from the vintage forum. My '65 has a 5.0l with gt40x heads, short headers, and a slightly bigger than stock cam. I am currently collecting pieces to put MAF EFI on the car. After the car gets out of paint hell and I get the electonics sorted, the engine gets pulled and replaced with a 331 and 185cc AFR's.

The last piece is the air filter, namely, how do I stuff one in the engine compartment and make it look okay.

It would be pretty easy to break a piece of sheet metal to block off the air meter from the engine compartment, using a piece of that pinch on gasket they use on new cars to seal off the box, enlarge the 6x8 hole in the core support from where the stock battery vent is (battery is in the trunk) and use a conical filter.

It would also be easy to use a factory air box. Except......they look lame.

Any suggestions?
 
I think I have about 280 rrhp with my new Ford Racing Crate Motor with B-303cam. My K&N filter's flange is angled so it is away from the fan and up against the hole in the fender wall where the air box would mount to. I bought the car this way ,with the C&L MAF, CIA Intake, and the K&N conical filter. 70mm throttle body, Edelbrock Performer Intake. The car is street legal , but mostly used for drag racing. I'm really looking for track performance more than street driving.
Link below is the air box I was looking at.
http://classifieds.stangnet.com/showproduct.php?product=42306&cat=5
are you having any light throttle driveability problems or idle issues?
Idle is ok. It will kind of jump with light throttle driving , like in 5th gear with the rpms at about 1500 rpms when you're just barely toughing the gas pedal.
Thanks for the information.
 
Just having too much oil, which migrates to the MAF wires and gums them up (and attracts dirt), which in turn throws off your readings. That's part of the reason I don't ever bother running one on my car, since it's a daily driver; I'll just live without the benefit of that extra 1-2 horses and not have to deal with another headache atop the other mess of them that I've already gotta live with in my car. :D
 
I just thought I'd let you guys know. I called C&L today about my application. They said, if you have a electric fan, a conical filter will work fine with their MAF. An electric fan, due to the size and air it puts out, will not effect the read on MAF. The only reason they designed their MAF to work with the factory air box was that there where no gains between using the stock air box and a conical filter. They didn't see any use in making the package more expensive by adding a conical filter to it, when there where no gains.
Hope this helps.
 
When I bought my 88 it had a fenderwell CAI on it. I started swapping stuff over from my 93 including my C&L and it immediately developed idle probs, with the ECT plugged in the car would bog and sputter after it warmed up when it was at anything less than WOT. Swapped the stock airbox back in with a K&N panel and my problems went away. Still likes to stall upon occasion but I believe that is a mismatched cam and a small vacuum leak I have been unable to find as of yet.
 
I had my car out yesterday. Whlie it was idling the electric fan kicked on. I put my hand in font of the air filter to feel if there was any air coming from the fan. I coudn't feel any air coming near any part of the filter. Funny thing, the only thing giving off air near the filter was the alternator fan blades.