STORE BRAND OIL/FILTER MYTHS...STILL GOOD OIL?

Hows the Mobile 1 Synthetic 10-W30 + K&N Filter? I just did my first oil change and went synthetic but it cost me a LOT more than I expected...do I really need a 13$ K&N Filter and 7.99/Quart Mobile 1?
 
The thing is, fellas, there are times when you are paying for a name. I am a petroleum engineer by profession, and the chain store oils are made by major manufacturers. EG, Advance used to get havoline to bottle their oil, O'reilly got Superflo (exxon) as did Wally world. As long as the oil has the API rating for gasoline engines that is recommended by the manufacturer, you are good to go. As far as every 3K for oil changes, lots of factors can change that. Type of driving, condition of engine, time of year, climate you drive in, etc. I don't change my oil but every 5K. I have had oil analysis run on it, and that is about all I can squeeze out of it.
You wanna know the best gear oil I have run across in all my time drilling and maintaining oil rigs/oil wells? Super-tech (wal mart brand) gear oil. If this oil was so inferior, would I risk down rig time @ 25-40K per day to the gear boxes in my rigs? Nope.
Run what makes you comfortable, but in the end, as long as it is certified for the uses you intend to use it for, you are good to go.
For what it is worth, I run chevron delo (diesel oil) in my 351W.
Motorcraft fl1A and purolator pure-one filters only.
 
Hows the Mobile 1 Synthetic 10-W30 + K&N Filter? I just did my first oil change and went synthetic but it cost me a LOT more than I expected...do I really need a 13$ K&N Filter and 7.99/Quart Mobile 1?

i spent like i think it was a little over 10 a quart for royal purple's "race proven" oil that's for racing applications....i figure if this stuff keeps par with all the abuse thats given though an engine durning all the different types of racing it will do fine for a car mostly driven on the street...it was like $60 worth of oil though :( ...and i got the K&N filter too....if your spending that much on oil dont cheao out and buy a cheap filter.
 
I would suggest that anyone who wants to know everything about motor oils should spend some time on www.bobistheoilguy.com forums. These guys are the real deal and work in the industry. You will find some excellent info on oils and other lubes.

What I use: (New Car)

In a new car I will use a Dino oil of the proper weight for the first 10k miles, oil change every 3k. After that I will use a 100% synthetic oil and filter with a oil change every 5k. I will continue to use synthetic until around 90k miles as the seals start to wear out I return back to a Dino oil to avoid leaks for as long as possible.

Dino's I like: Pennzoil, Castrol, NAPPA 10w30's
Synthetics I Like: Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline 10w30's / 5w30's

Filters I like: Mobil 1, Amsoil, K&N, Purolator, NAPPA/Wix
Filters I DONT like: FRAM, Pennzoil


What I use: (Old Car)

In an old car I use strickly Dino oil as most synthetics will just leak out of everything.


Additives: I dont use any... Most are nothing more than a seal conditioners.
 
I would suggest that anyone who wants to know everything about motor oils should spend some time on www.bobistheoilguy.com forums. These guys are the real deal and work in the industry. You will find some excellent info on oils and other lubes.

What I use: (New Car)

In a new car I will use a Dino oil of the proper weight for the first 10k miles, oil change every 3k. After that I will use a 100% synthetic oil and filter with a oil change every 5k. I will continue to use synthetic until around 90k miles as the seals start to wear out I return back to a Dino oil to avoid leaks for as long as possible.

Dino's I like: Pennzoil, Castrol, NAPPA 10w30's
Synthetics I Like: Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline 10w30's / 5w30's

Filters I like: Mobil 1, Amsoil, K&N, Purolator, NAPPA/Wix
Filters I DONT like: FRAM, Pennzoil


What I use: (Old Car)

In an old car I use strickly Dino oil as most synthetics will just leak out of everything.


Additives: I dont use any... Most are nothing more than a seal conditioners.

I'm in the middle of testing several different types of filters. So far the Fram seems to have nothing there to even filter? The motorcraft seems to have a good filter, STP junk too. How can they sell a filter...with no filter?

Jason
 
I would suggest that anyone who wants to know everything about motor oils should spend some time on www.bobistheoilguy.com forums. These guys are the real deal and work in the industry. You will find some excellent info on oils and other lubes.

What I use: (New Car)

In a new car I will use a Dino oil of the proper weight for the first 10k miles, oil change every 3k. After that I will use a 100% synthetic oil and filter with a oil change every 5k. I will continue to use synthetic until around 90k miles as the seals start to wear out I return back to a Dino oil to avoid leaks for as long as possible.

Dino's I like: Pennzoil, Castrol, NAPPA 10w30's
Synthetics I Like: Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline 10w30's / 5w30's

Filters I like: Mobil 1, Amsoil, K&N, Purolator, NAPPA/Wix
Filters I DONT like: FRAM, Pennzoil


What I use: (Old Car)

In an old car I use strickly Dino oil as most synthetics will just leak out of everything.


Additives: I dont use any... Most are nothing more than a seal conditioners.

I've been running Advance oil/filter forever. Changed oil today and still pretty clean after 4k miles. This time I'm using a different brand to test the quality on the next change.
 
Dino's I like: Pennzoil, Castrol, NAPPA 10w30's
Synthetics I Like: Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline 10w30's / 5w30's

Filters I like: Mobil 1, Amsoil, K&N, Purolator, NAPPA/Wix
Filters I DONT like: FRAM, Pennzoil

With specifics like this mentioned, I have to ask: What is your method of observation and analysis?
 
With specifics like this mentioned, I have to ask: What is your method of observation and analysis?

I am not an expert by any stretch I gathered the info on the net.. I base my choice on what group the oil base stock belongs to and % of aromatics. The higher the group the better the stability.

I base my choice of filters on the info I gathered from several oil filter tests on the net.(google "oil filter study"). After reading the articles I opened a few filters to see first hand what they were talking about. On my very limited examination, I tend to believe in the filter study that I had read.
 
I am not an expert by any stretch I gathered the info on the net.. I base my choice on what group the oil base stock belongs to and % of aromatics. The higher the group the better the stability.

I base my choice of filters on the info I gathered from several oil filter tests on the net.(google "oil filter study"). After reading the articles I opened a few filters to see first hand what they were talking about. On my very limited examination, I tend to believe in the filter study that I had read.

I'm in the process of collecting several types of filters to check the insides. FRAM seems to have no filter? I have to find a saw to cut it open, but I'll post pics once I do.:D
 
castrol, i run the syntec blend 10w30 in the stang with a motorcraft filter.

for the GTI i run castrol syntec 5w20 just because i put a boost controller on it and the tiny turbo is pretty much maxed out. and an STP filter.
 
I do think some oils are better than others , but, I also think it is more about how you maintain your engine, I had a 93 F-150 with the original 302 still in it and it was pushing about 230,000 when I got rid of it for my stang, and it didn't have a single leak or burn oil, it ran like a new engine the whole time I had it, and it is still running like new for the new owners, it got an oil change every 1,000 to 2,000 miles since it was bought in 94 though, so I say you can buy 10.00 dollar a quart oil for an engine but if you don't keep it changed like you should you are still going to have problems regardless of oil type.
 
I do think some oils are better than others , but, I also think it is more about how you maintain your engine, I had a 93 F-150 with the original 302 still in it and it was pushing about 230,000 when I got rid of it for my stang, and it didn't have a single leak or burn oil, it ran like a new engine the whole time I had it, and it is still running like new for the new owners, it got an oil change every 1,000 to 2,000 miles since it was bought in 94 though, so I say you can buy 10.00 dollar a quart oil for an engine but if you don't keep it changed like you should you are still going to have problems regardless of oil type.

1,000 mile oil change? Seems like a waste of money or you're just plain anal...:eek:
 
castrol, i run the syntec blend 10w30 in the stang with a motorcraft filter.

for the GTI i run castrol syntec 5w20 just because i put a boost controller on it and the tiny turbo is pretty much maxed out. and an STP filter.

motorcraft filters seem to be pretty good and most people seem to use them on here. I just put one on my CRV so we'll see the results in 3k miles.