ok call me dumb im finally gonna ask but what does it mean to run lean and what does it mean to run rich....ive been hearing these terms and i still havent figured out totally what it means...sorry i guess im still a newbie to certain things
He didnt ask a technical question. He asked opinions on which system to get. My opinion is the system with the maf. I have tried both and i like the one with the maf.
John (Jackie Chan)...when are you gonna hit 12's? What are your plans to break this barrier? Lord knows your abilities with your current combo are about as tweaked as they can get. Do you think the fact that you're in a vert rather than a coupe hurt you, and if so, how much? Verts, I thought, are heavier by design, but part of that weight is sub frame connectors, so this should be a benefit, right?
Sorry to be a thread-thief...
I should be all over the 13.0-1s in this weather now on slicks. I havent ran on on them since the weather changed and the difference corrected in my street tire ets is about .3 since i changed my mufflers to dumped magnaflows and put the t/b and plenum on. so with a little luck i should go 12.8-9 when we get some high 70* weather again. I dont want to do anymore than tweak my current setup to get there, then i will be moving on to a full exhaust and cams i think.
60 degrees? You need to get a protractor out and see what 60 degrees is. Last I looked the TB sticks out of the motor at 90 degree angle from the side of the car. Since the Straight Shot runs nearly parallel to the side of the car (no not exactly parallel, but it's pretty close to parallel) a 90 degree (or so) turn is necessary somewhere! I'll agree it may not be exactly 90, but it's much closer to 90 than 60.
Why would you say that C&L meters and tubes are more apt to run lean as opposed to the Straight Shot? Do you have info to back this statement? If the MAC is similiar to the C&L (measuring 85mm thru the entire MAF, just like the C&L) and it uses the stock electronics, where would this difference be created? I'd believe that they would be very similiar in their leaning tendencies.
These so called performance MAFs are a joke - they are just expensive aluminum tubes, using the stock electronics, that fool the computer and lean the motor out. The OEM MAF is not restrictive and is good for 350 HP (or more). If you want to make power by leaning, do it the right way and get a dyno tuned chip or handheld programmer.
Running this intake as your only mod. might not give you the power you are looking for. But add all the other goodies and it makes a difference. The only 4.6's that can get in front of me are the Blown and Nos powered stangs, the rest are in my rear view.
Running this intake as your only mod. might not give you the power you are looking for. But add all the other goodies and it makes a difference. The only 4.6's that can get in front of me are the Blown and Nos powered stangs, the rest are in my rear view.
He didnt ask a technical question. He asked opinions on which system to get. My opinion is the system with the maf. I have tried both and i like the one with the maf.
But this IS the Tech Forum, where opinions can and often are substantiated with technical information. I doubt the author of the thread REALLY just wanted answers like "with MAF" or "without MAF".
But this IS the Tech Forum, where opinions can and often are substantiated with technical information. I doubt the author of the thread REALLY just wanted answers like "with MAF" or "without MAF".