STROKER MOTORS and OIL???

$uperstang

New Member
Jul 20, 2004
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Detroit, MI
So I just got done building my 325 and I am using Valvoline 10W30 standard mineral oil. What I was going to start using after about 2,000 miles is some Royal Purple 10W30. Although I heard from someone that has a 347 stroker in his that he was told not to use synthetic oil and just stick with the mineral based oil? Is this true of stroker motors or will it be much better to use the Royal Purple or any synthetic?

Thanks
 
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I have never heard anyone claim synthetics are bad for stroker motors nor can I think of any plausible reason why you wouldn't be able to. I CAN think of many reasons why it would be a good idea to run synthetic though.

I'd recommend a good 5W30 from 76.
 
Curious why you chose the 3.18" stroke and not the 3.25" for a 332....

Run mineral oil for the first little bit to clean up the inside post-construction debris -- then switch to synthetic if you like. Talk to your machinist about ring/hone/cylinder finish and how long you should wait to switch. MANY new cars come from the factory running synthetic and go through break-in with synthetic in the crankcase - so it is possible to build them to run on synth right from the start.
 
Michael Yount said:
Curious why you chose the 3.18" stroke and not the 3.25" for a 332....

Run mineral oil for the first little bit to clean up the inside post-construction debris -- then switch to synthetic if you like. Talk to your machinist about ring/hone/cylinder finish and how long you should wait to switch. MANY new cars come from the factory running synthetic and go through break-in with synthetic in the crankcase - so it is possible to build them to run on synth right from the start.

Mike,

I will tell U why I went with the 3.18 and not the 3.25 to make a 332. Because I found the 3.18 kit for a GREAT DEAL!!! $899 all forged like I said 4340 forged crank, Forged Eagle H-beam Rods and JE SRP psitons, what do ya think? When I was looking at the time the 331 kits were like $1400 non-forged and I beam rods!
 
You coulda got a scat cast steel 347 assembly for $999.

Change your oil often for the first few hundred miles. No reason at all to wait 2000 miles to switch to synthetic. I switched at 600 miles. I talked with mark o'neal from probe/chp and he said 500 miles is fine. I use mobil 1 10w30 with a mobil 1 extended performance filter.

After you get it running, take it out for a drive and break it in properly and come home & change the oil. Cut your filter open and look for shavings.

To properly break in your roller engine, read this link and follow Barry R's response. http://bbs.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=12510&highlight=engine+break